Tompkins Gage'T Thickness Gauge?

[Odie]

Just wondering if anyone here has a Tompkins Gage'T Thickness Gauge, and would like to comment on this device used to measure wall thickness of bowls.

There is a video available on this product here:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p...ge%27T-Thickness-Gauge?term=gage't+wall+gauge
Pay particular attention to the method used to "sweep" a bowl wall between foot and rim, and how that may apply to give a turner an overall "visual" feeling for the entire surface.

At $70, it's a rather expensive option, but if it saves a few bowls.....the cost can be absorbed very quickly.

My interest is for thin wall bowls, and have always used calipers to test for wall thickness. There is no real problem with calipers......they are accurate and work well, but only give measurements at a single point without making a manual adjustment.....and the steel legs can mar a finely finished surface rather quickly, if not very carefully handled.

So tell me......is the Thompkins Gage'T a break-through innovation.......or, just one more woodturning gadget that doesn't live up to it's claims?

ooc

 

[hockenbery]

My interest is for thin wall bowls, and have always used calipers to test for wall thickness. There is no real problem with calipers......they are accurate and work well, but only give measurements at a single point without making a manual adjustment.....and the steel legs can mar a finely finished surface.
ooc

I round over my caliper ends so they don't scratch the wood. They can make a mark so I always keep them open so that nothing touches the outside sanded surface.
You can also put tape or a plastic caps over the ends.

Double ended calipers, which I rarely use, give a running measure it is how they work. Just observe the gap between the points not measuring the bowl as you slide the calipers along.

Single ended spring calipers can give you a running measure too.
If I'm shooting for a 1/4 wall I set the calipers at say 1/2. Put the inside point against the wood slide the caliper along and look at the space between the outside point and the bowl. As long as the gap on the outside is 1/4 I have an even wall thickness of 1/4 inch. For increased accuracy I put my finger between the outside point and the bowl and feel changes in pressure as i move down the bowl.

I often leave the rim slightly thicker and taper the sidewall down a few inches to my side wall thickness. It is easy to get a feel for this with the calipers open watching how the gap changes.

The Tompkins tool is well made and accurate and easy to use.
Probably more accurate than eyeballing a gap or finger pressure.

Al

 

[Odie]

I round over my caliper ends so they don't scratch the wood. They can make a mark so I always keep them open so that nothing touches the outside sanded surface.
You can also put tape or a plastic caps over the ends.

Double ended calipers, which I rarely use, give a running measure it is how they work. Just observe the gap between the points not measuring the bowl as you slide the calipers along.

Single ended spring calipers can give you a running measure too.
If I'm shooting for a 1/4 wall I set the calipers at say 1/2. Put the inside point against the wood slide the caliper along and look at the space between the outside point and the bowl. As long as the gap on the outside is 1/4 I have an even wall thickness of 1/4 inch. For increased accuracy I put my finger between the outside point and the bowl and feel changes in pressure as i move down the bowl.

I often leave the rim slightly thicker and taper the sidewall down a few inches to my side wall thickness. It is easy to get a feel for this with the calipers open watching how the gap changes.

The Tompkins tool is well made and accurate and easy to use.
Probably more accurate than eyeballing a gap or finger pressure.

Al

Hello Al........

Do you own and use a Tompkin Gage'T......?

I've also rounded and polished the ends of my calipers. There is a distinct disadvantage to the calipers, in that they all have "pointy" ends. I suppose if they had a ball end like the Tompkin gage'T, the ability to slide across the surface would be improved. One could improvise and add ball ends to a set of calipers, and it would be better.......however you'd still be attempting to concentrate your eyes on the point of contact and point of measurement at the same time, and do this while sliding the point of contact across the surface of your bowl. At best this distance is a foot apart, or better. This is a particular difficulty that the Thompkins gage'T doesn't appear to have, since the contact point and the measurement are at the same location.

ooc

 

[robo hippy]

I started with the David Ellsworth D shaped bent wire. I haven't seen anything more effective, efficient, or any where near the price range.

robo hippy

 

[Odie]

I started with the David Ellsworth D shaped bent wire. I haven't seen anything more effective, efficient, or any where near the price range.

robo hippy

Hi Robohippy.......

Do you own and use a Tompkins Gage'T thickness gauge?

ooc

 

[George Van Beynen]

I do own a Gage’T

[FONT=&quot]Odie, I do own a Gage’T, it does what it is suppose to do. It tells you the thickness between the balls (which do not scratch the surface). It has an adequate gap to accommodate most of my bowls either at the rim or towards the base. The frame is rigid and flex does not seem to be a problem. The colored graduation marks are easy to see in awkward positions. Sliding the gage along the bowl shows the slightest variation on the plunger graduation marks. If mine were lost (don't think it would break if used as intended) I would get another, it is fast, non-marking, and accurate.[/FONT]

 

[hockenbery]

Hello Al........

Do you own and use a Tompkin Gage'T......?

I've also rounded and polished the ends of my calipers. There is a distinct disadvantage to the calipers, in that they all have "pointy" ends. I suppose if they had a ball end like the Tompkin gage'T, the ability to slide across the surface would be improved. One could improvise and add ball ends to a set of calipers, and it would be better.......however you'd still be attempting to concentrate your eyes on the point of contact and point of measurement at the same time, and do this while sliding the point of contact across the surface of your bowl. At best this distance is a foot apart, or better. This is a particular difficulty that the Thompkins gage'T doesn't appear to have, since the contact point and the measurement are at the same location.

ooc

Odie,
I've used the Tompkins, don't own one. It is well made and easy to use.
Either I don't understand your post or you don't understand using the gapped calipers or Bent wire.
The calipers or wire are opened a 1/4 to 1/2 more than the desired thickness.
The inside point is held against the wood. The outside gap right where the thickness is being measured shows the thickness of the wall. No "foot apart"

In practice I slide the calipers along where I am working. If the gap is starts to get less I have to take off more wood at that point. If the gap is getting bigger I have made it a little to thin and have to correct. This method works for hollow forms and bowls.

The one trick is to be sure the points are lined up perpendicular to the surface. One feature of the Tompkins is that it's design helps you do this.

I have a special Christmas ornament bent wire caliper for measuring the thickness of hollow balls.
I attached with tape a plastic broom straw so that the gap from Red broom straw to the other end of the gap was 1/8"
My goal was a 1/16th wall but I accepted anything less than the 1/8 th anywhere the straw bent I hollowed more.


Al

 

[George Van Beynen]

I have a special Christmas ornament bent wire caliper for measuring the thickness of hollow balls.
I attached with tape a plastic broom straw so that the gap from Red broom straw to the other end of the gap was 1/8"
My goal was a 1/16th wall but I accepted anything less than the 1/8 th anywhere the straw bent I hollowed more.


Al

I like the straw idea Al, I am going to add one to my hollow form wire today and give one a go.

 

[Rob Wallace]

I use it and recommend it!

Hi Odie!

I have and routinely use Keith Tompkins' 'Gage'T' tool for several years (actually since it was first developed and released as Version 1 - i.e. without the extra arm structure supports or colored scale markings).....

I does live up to its claims - it is non-marring in use and provides a quick and efficient way to rapidly evaluate the wall thickness of open end bowls (it does not work on hollow forms - for these I use the Veritas spring-legs caliper). I have rarely turned a bowl in which it can not be used because of the limits of its size or shape. It will also measure bottom thickness quite well in most cases, but occasionally the bowl needs to be un-mounted from the chuck. (The brass ball diameter is too large to be able to fit between the jaw openings around the tenon.)

The thing I like about the Gage'T is that you can easily slide the tool down the wall of the bowl and watch the scale to show the actual thickness of the wall at that point (no guessing or estimating), making the identification of the specific area that needs more work quite easy. I formerly used the wire loop, but never liked it very much - perhaps I am too much of a stickler for accurate measurement (scientist gene being expressed since about age 10).

Although this is not meant as a full 'review' I can tell you that I routinely use this tool, particularly when second-turning roughed out blanks (for estimating wall thickness on roughed out work I occasionally use the Gage'T, but most often use my built-in thumb and forefinger caliper, since this thickness is not critical), and would highly recommend it. It is one of my go-to tools for wall thickness measurement, and is quick, easy, and accurate.

In the interest of full disclosure, I need to tell you that Keith and I are friends, and that he asked me to test one of the earlier versions of the tool and provide feedback for improvement of the next generation of the tool. The currently available tool is a significant improvement over the earlier version, with the frame being much more rigid (this adds to accuracy; it was re-designed with support ribs and fiberglass-reinforced inflexible plastic that is injection-molded), a colored measuring scale which makes monitoring wall thickness much more easy, and a smoother operating spring mechanism to maintain the brass balls against both surfaces. The fact that it is sold by several different woodturning tool vendors (e.g. Packard, Craft Supplies, amazon.com, Hartville, etc.) for the past few years attests to its value as a good tool, which is well built.

Yes, I use it and recommend it, Odie!

Rob

 

[John Nesmith]

I've never used one Odie. I use digital calipers.

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/images/prod/400/ts_8_dig_cal.jpg

They do the same thing for less, don't they?

 

[robo hippy]

Odie,
I don't have one, and never have used one. I just couldn't see it as any improvement over the bent wire calipers. I can buy a whole roll of the wire I used for less than I can buy that tool. I am frugal, but don't mind spending money on a better product. If some one gave me one to try out, I would do that, but again, I just can't see it being any better.

robo hippy

 

[n7bsn]

I've never used one Odie. I use digital calipers.

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/images/prod/400/ts_8_dig_cal.jpg

They do the same thing for less, don't they?

Hi, I'm Ralph and I'm a tool junkie....

I have both the ones John shows and the Tompkin's. They were similarly but for different "scales"

The digital gauge ones work fine for small objects, but would be completely worthless for checking the depth of say an 6 inch or larger bowl.

I find the Tompkins works fine for bowls in that size range, but are worthless when we are turning small bowls.

I find the digital gauges work well when I am making a segmented piece, where accuracy is so important.

 

[Odie]

Odie,
I've used the Tompkins, don't own one. It is well made and easy to use.

Either I don't understand your post or you don't understand using the gapped calipers or Bent wire.
The calipers or wire are opened a 1/4 to 1/2 more than the desired thickness.
The inside point is held against the wood. The outside gap right where the thickness is being measured shows the thickness of the wall. No "foot apart"
Al

Hello again, Al......

I believe what you don't understand are my requirements, which are very much as Rob has conveyed......an accurate measurement, without the need for estimating or guesswork. In that case, both ends of my calipers are in contact with the bowl, and the accurate measurement is shown in the gap at the other end of the calipers.......a foot apart, or more.

[FONT=&quot]Odie, I do own a Gage’T, it does what it is suppose to do. It tells you the thickness between the balls (which do not scratch the surface). It has an adequate gap to accommodate most of my bowls either at the rim or towards the base. The frame is rigid and flex does not seem to be a problem. The colored graduation marks are easy to see in awkward positions. Sliding the gage along the bowl shows the slightest variation on the plunger graduation marks. If mine were lost (don't think it would break if used as intended) I would get another, it is fast, non-marking, and accurate.[/FONT]

Hi Odie!

I have and routinely use Keith Tompkins' 'Gage'T' tool for several years (actually since it was first developed and released as Version 1 - i.e. without the extra arm structure supports or colored scale markings).....

I does live up to its claims - it is non-marring in use and provides a quick and efficient way to rapidly evaluate the wall thickness of open end bowls (it does not work on hollow forms - for these I use the Veritas spring-legs caliper). I have rarely turned a bowl in which it can not be used because of the limits of its size or shape. It will also measure bottom thickness quite well in most cases, but occasionally the bowl needs to be un-mounted from the chuck. (The brass ball diameter is too large to be able to fit between the jaw openings around the tenon.)

The thing I like about the Gage'T is that you can easily slide the tool down the wall of the bowl and watch the scale to show the actual thickness of the wall at that point (no guessing or estimating), making the identification of the specific area that needs more work quite easy. I formerly used the wire loop, but never liked it very much - perhaps I am too much of a stickler for accurate measurement (scientist gene being expressed since about age 10).

Although this is not meant as a full 'review' I can tell you that I routinely use this tool, particularly when second-turning roughed out blanks (for estimating wall thickness on roughed out work I occasionally use the Gage'T, but most often use my built-in thumb and forefinger caliper, since this thickness is not critical), and would highly recommend it. It is one of my go-to tools for wall thickness measurement, and is quick, easy, and accurate.

In the interest of full disclosure, I need to tell you that Keith and I are friends, and that he asked me to test one of the earlier versions of the tool and provide feedback for improvement of the next generation of the tool. The currently available tool is a significant improvement over the earlier version, with the frame being much more rigid (this adds to accuracy; it was re-designed with support ribs and fiberglass-reinforced inflexible plastic that is injection-molded), a colored measuring scale which makes monitoring wall thickness much more easy, and a smoother operating spring mechanism to maintain the brass balls against both surfaces. The fact that it is sold by several different woodturning tool vendors (e.g. Packard, Craft Supplies, amazon.com, Hartville, etc.) for the past few years attests to its value as a good tool, which is well built.

Yes, I use it and recommend it, Odie!

Rob

Rob and George......

Many thanks to you both, and the person who responded through PM......

Rob, thanks very much for your abbreviated report on the Tomkins Gage'T thickness gauge. I feel the description of your requirements are very similar to what I'm hoping to find with the Gage'T. I need an accurate measurement, that is quick to acquire, and quick to identify any specific area that needs further attention, without the need for any guesswork.

The person who responded by PM, mentioned that he had some trouble with "rub marks" left on a finished surface. He also mentioned that the reason for this was his lack of attention. I can only guess what that means, but possibly this is caused by the ball ends not being perpendicular to the wood surface, as it slides..........

In any case, all of the wall thickness measurements are done prior to finish sanding, so "rub marks" are not of much concern. It is nice to be able to double check the wall thickness after final sanding is accomplished, and I'm sure most of us do that......but, for the most part, it is not really a priority concern.

I have placed an order for the Thomkins Gage'T thickness gauge!

Many thanks to those who contributed to this thread, and my decision to purchase the Gage'T.......:cool2:

ooc

 

[John Nesmith]

The digital gauge ones work fine for small objects, but would be completely worthless for checking the depth of say an 6 inch or larger bowl.

I use them to check thickness, not depth. I'm not sure how they would be used for depth.

 

[Odie]

Update......

I have received the Tompkins Gage T, and have been using it in the shop for several days. It looks well thought-out, and does exactly what it's advertised to do. It's much bigger than I had envisioned from the photos.

My only complaint is the cost.......but, like most things of this nature, long after the price is forgotten, the usefulness is the only evaluation that really matters. Although I've only used the Gage-T for a short period of time, my requirements have evolved over decades, and it looks like this device is a better solution than calipers......that is, if accuracy is at a premium.

I've been using double ended calipers for several decades, and they can give the precise measurements I need, but require more effort to establish the relationships between the two profiles of inner and outer bowl walls, since multiple measurements are needed with the calipers. The Gage-T will give a more complete mental concept of those two profiles, and it's very easy to do with one quick swipe of a bowl wall.

At first, I thought the ball ends could have been smaller, in order to negotiate tight curves and corners a bit better......but, on second thought, a smaller ball would be more likely to hang up with a smaller radius while sliding. Keeping the ball ends at 90o to the wood surface is important to the Gage-T's ability to slide effortlessly......this means there is a necessary learning curve to overcome.

Overall, the Gage-T appears to be a great candidate for a turning gadget that I've tried.......and kept on using! (I've got a drawer full of gizmos that I've wasted my money on! :mad

ooc

 

[george morris]

Thanks

Good thread! I have been interested in this for a while ,thanks for doing the asking!!G

 

[Rob Wallace]

Glad you're happy with it Odie! I knew you would be!

Turn safely!

Rob

 

[hockenbery]

Odie,
When a specialty tool works for a turners style of turning it is worth taking advantage it.

It's cost is similar to that of gouge and it will last a lot longer.
One bowl sale pays for it.

Have fun!
Al

 

[Keith T.]

Tompkins gauge

I happened to spot the thread on the "Tompkins Gage't", so thought I might try to clarify a couple of things...Yes, it is expensive; it was expensive to bring to market and to produce. The costs for producing the molds would have made a nice down payment on a house, and the tool is produced here in the U.S.. The frame is glass-filled polycarbonate, molded in Massachusetts. The measuring pin is made in Illinois, the brass balls in Long Island City, NY. I could have significantly reduced the cost by importing the tool, but chose to have it produced here. (There were some problems with the original version of the tool, which were hand-cast with urethane; the frames could distort over time, and the pin was hard to read. All were replaced with the newest version, no charge, no questions asked.) However, after nearly ten years on the market, I have not had to replace a single unit because a customer was dissatisfied with its operation or accuracy. Does it work? I developed the gauge because I couldn't find anything accurate enough to measure the kind of turnings I produce. I've found calipers are very inaccurate unless held perfectly tangent to the wall of a bowl, something difficult to do near the base of a bowl. (Ever wonder why you turned a funnel when your calipers said otherwise?) As a bonus, my gauge will measure the thickness of the bottom as well. Thanks for all the positive comments! Keith

 

[Jerry Rhoads]

Keith, You developed it good, well actually GREAT.
I have had mine a loong time, like and use them a lot.
Was hesitate a little about price. Seen right away they were totally USA.
Liked the balls and the size. Bought and I never have had a complaint to say about them. Not even the price
Heck I even always hang them in the same place, so can't even complain about not finding them. Like so many other things

Wonderful, wonderful tool.

 

[Don O. Jr.]

I have one, use it and love it. Works as advertised and better.

The Woodturners Catalog incorrectly calls it a T Gauge. It is correctly called the "Gage'T' pronounced as gage-it . I believe Keith's wife coined the term.

Mine hangs right next to my lathe and is used on every bowl larger than my fingers can reach.

Don

 

[John Nesmith]

I'm still wondering what it can do, that digital turning calipers can't. I'm obviously missing something.

 

[hockenbery]

I'm still wondering what it can do, that digital turning calipers can't. I'm obviously missing something.

John
The Thompkins gauge allows you to measure on the move accurately without marring either surface.
If you want to measure a specific spot they both measure a spot.
If you are comfortable looking at a gap you can open any calipers or bent wires to say a 1/4" gap above where you have a desired thickness and run them down the bowl touching on the inside and watching the gap on the outside. Accuracy varies for this method. You have to keep the point perpendicular to the surface and have an eye that sees the difference.
When I'm measuring I won't have sanded the inside.

The Thompkins give a more precise measure faster. And the shape makes it easy to keep the points perpendicular.

Almost anything in woodturning can be done with multiple tools and multiple techniques.

Al

 

[Sergio Villa]

Excellent gauge with a possible improvement

After reading this thread I decided and bought it. Excellent gauge.
I have only one problem that may have to do with my eyes. The reading confuses me with all that red black red black etc. and I have sto stop and count. So why not put a different bright color on main measures such as 1/2 inch, 1 inch that would make the reading of the intervals much easier?
Just a suggestion.
Tool is really great.

 

[John Nesmith]

The Thompkins give a more precise measure faster.

Al

Thanks. i was referring to calipers like these. I don't see how the Thompkins can be more precise. I use these, and they measure to 64th's of an inch in fraction mode, and .01 in decimal. Also do mm. But, I understand the other points you made.

 

[hockenbery]

John,

Precise was a poor word choice
The calipers and the Thompkins depend on taking the measurement perpendicular the wood.
With your calipers this requires holding them perpendicular and closing them on that spot to take the measurement.
This is not easy for all people. I have a lot of students tell me they have a 1/2 inch thick wall when it is really 1/4 because they measure off perpendicular not rotating the calipers.

Your calipers provide a more " precise" measure probably to 1/100 of and inch.

At the end of they day they do the same job.
For most turnings where a relative measure is desired rather than an explicit thickness, bent wires serve quite well.

It is all about using tools we have effectively and buying additional ones that provide us with needed service.

 

[Odie]

After reading this thread I decided and bought it. Excellent gauge.
I have only one problem that may have to do with my eyes. The reading confuses me with all that red black red black etc. and I have sto stop and count. So why not put a different bright color on main measures such as 1/2 inch, 1 inch that would make the reading of the intervals much easier?
Just a suggestion.
Tool is really great.

I had the same trouble identifying the marks. It's something you can train your eye to overcome the difficulty, but I'm not sure the wide painted markings are the best way to go. Perhaps just a simple line at each 1/16" increment would be easier...... I don't think I'll be using the Gage T for anything but readings under 1/2". For me, anything thicker than that, and I really don't need an accurate measurement. Fingers, or a quick caliper check will do for that just fine.

Regardless, this Gage T is a wonderful invention that seems better than any other method of accurately measuring wall thickness with a sweeping motion.

Again......this is something that is very minor, and with regular use, a turner can adapt his perception to overcome the confusing visual readings.

I'm now a fan of this product.

ooc

 

[Sergio Villa]

I had the same trouble identifying the marks. It's something you can train your eye to overcome the difficulty, but I'm not sure the wide painted markings are the best way to go. Perhaps just a simple line at each 1/16" increment would be easier...... I don't think I'll be using the Gage T for anything but readings under 1/2". For me, anything thicker than that, and I really don't need an accurate measurement. Fingers, or a quick caliper check will do for that just fine.

Regardless, this Gage T is a wonderful invention that seems better than any other method of accurately measuring wall thickness with a sweeping motion.

Again......this is something that is very minor, and with regular use, a turner can adapt his perception to overcome the confusing visual readings.

I'm now a fan of this product.

ooc

I agree, simple is better and less confusing. Visible, simple lines like the ones on the best line gauges for machinists would make this perfect.

 

[John Nesmith]

John,


The calipers and the Thompkins depend on taking the measurement perpendicular the wood.
With your calipers this requires holding them perpendicular and closing them on that spot to take the measurement.
This is not easy for all people. I have a lot of students tell me they have a 1/2 inch thick wall when it is really 1/4 because they measure off perpendicular not rotating the calipers.

Thanks. Very good point. I do have to constantly look and check to be sure I am perpendicular, and it's easy to screw that up. If you are trying to go thin, a piece can easily be ruined by over-estimating the thickness.

 

[Rob Wallace]

I had the same trouble identifying the marks. It's something you can train your eye to overcome the difficulty, but I'm not sure the wide painted markings are the best way to go. Perhaps just a simple line at each 1/16" increment would be easier......

I disagree. The earlier version of the Gage'T had only etched lines in the measuring cylinder as you describe, and it was extremely difficult to determine how many marks were exposed. The first thing I did to that version was to color spaces between the lines to visually aid in the determination of how many sixteenths were exposed. Keith improved that aspect of the tool's second generation with the current version by coloring the spaces between the etched lines with paint (which I assume to be enamel). It certainly would be easier for Keith to make these barrels without the painted marks, but in my opinion, it is quite easy to use and poses no problem in determining wall thicknesses as the tool is designed to do.

You can always see the full wall thickness by visualizing the space between the edge of the frame and the bottom of the outer ball, regardless of how many lines are exposed. A ruler-like scale might be useful here to get a measurement, but would likely drive the cost of the unit much higher than it is at present, and its use would be constrain the position of the gage by limits of the viewing angle for seeing the scale. I question the need to have such a measurement in general woodturning practice. The colored lines are a good compromise in design, cost, and functionality.

Rob

 

[Steve Criscenzo]

Great Tool

I have a Tompkins tool and use it extensively. A bit pricey but it is well made and easy to use. I recommend it.

Steve

 

[James Plessner]

Would you happen to have a link for those digital calipers John? Thanks!

Thanks. i was referring to calipers like these. I don't see how the Thompkins can be more precise. I use these, and they measure to 64th's of an inch in fraction mode, and .01 in decimal. Also do mm. But, I understand the other points you made.

 

[Odie]

Accidental double post.......

 

[Odie]

I disagree. The earlier version of the Gage'T had only etched lines in the measuring cylinder as you describe, and it was extremely difficult to determine how many marks were exposed. The first thing I did to that version was to color spaces between the lines to visually aid in the determination of how many sixteenths were exposed. Keith improved that aspect of the tool's second generation with the current version by coloring the spaces between the etched lines with paint (which I assume to be enamel). It certainly would be easier for Keith to make these barrels without the painted marks, but in my opinion, it is quite easy to use and poses no problem in determining wall thicknesses as the tool is designed to do.

You can always see the full wall thickness by visualizing the space between the edge of the frame and the bottom of the outer ball, regardless of how many lines are exposed. A ruler-like scale might be useful here to get a measurement, but would likely drive the cost of the unit much higher than it is at present, and its use would be constrain the position of the gage by limits of the viewing angle for seeing the scale. I question the need to have such a measurement in general woodturning practice. The colored lines are a good compromise in design, cost, and functionality.

Rob

Thanks for the suggestion, Rob......I'll give that a try......

As I said before, this really is an insignificant point, because I think I'll have no problem with the painted lines, given a little time. I've only had the Gage T for a short time, and as I see it, I'll be able to adapt to this method of measurement in the long term. It is true that I'm experiencing a little bit of confusion when reading the scale with the painted lines, as is the case with Sergio......

ooc

 

[Steve Worcester]

I'm still wondering what it can do, that digital turning calipers can't. I'm obviously missing something.

The difference is the Tompkins can measure a deeper walled bowl. It isn't necessarily more accurate, since there is no digital readout of the thickness, but gives you a measured visual representation of the wall thickness.

No, I don't own one, I have the digital version you show John, and don't use it on bowls. I will buy one someday, I am a freak for measuring tools.

 

[Odie]

I was using the Gage T yesterday, and the thought occurred to me that three thin lines representing 1/16", a thicker line at 1/4" intervals, and possibly a painted line at 1/2" intervals would end the confusion I've been experiencing. I think it would be more applicable, in the sense that it would be easier to use with a larger spectrum of users.

Certainly, I can adapt, but I hope Keith does realize there is an inherent flaw in the visual of the current method. This may only apply to some people, but I'm including myself among those who are having this difficulty.

For sure, I'm a fan of this product. Calipers still have their use, but the Gage T has replaced them in the majority of places, or conditions where I've had the need for a measurement. The Gage T is much better for getting a mental picture of an entire surface, and the calipers are better for a single point, or in places that are difficult to measure with the ball ends of the Gage T.

Without a doubt, this Gage T is a great product! :cool2:

ooc

 

[Keith T.]

"Gage T"

Thanks for all the positive comments everyone! I have been reading about problems with reading the painted lines, and if I can come up with a better solution, I will incorporate it in future versions of the tool. Maybe three colors? A couple of thoughts....when I use the gauge, I focus on just one line on the measuring pin, and watch the amount of movement from that line as I sweep along the bowl. Ideally, the pin won't even move from the rim to the foot. Also, if you are not accustomed to using my gauge it's easy to tell if the gauge is perpendicular to the bowl's wall....rock the gauge towards you, then away from you while watching the measuring pin. The pin will move in and out while you rock the gauge. The smallest measurment is the true thickness. The shape of the balls also helps compensate for small user errors. It's very difficult to tell is conventional calipers are truly perpendicular, especially the deeper you are trying to measure....that's why cutting through the bowl's wall comes as a complete surprise! BTW, I've personally painted every gauges's measuring pin!

 

[George Van Beynen]

But Keith.......you never signed my painting.

 

[Matthew Ferriter]

I've seen some comments online about the flexibility of the material used in the construction of this gage. Has anyone had any issues with this? I've worked in injection molded medical device design for many years and am intimately familiar with material-of-construction and "creep" issues, especially with large lever arms under a constant force from a spring over long periods of time. I assume the spring used for the measurement pin is very low force for this application.

I'm still pretty new to the turner lifestyle and am just starting to make more stuff too big to get a feel for thickness using just my hand. This looks ideal and a very simple concept, which is usually the best.

 

[George Van Beynen]

I wouldn't want to be without the Tompkins Gage't. It is the most versatile bowl thickness gauge I have used. I use it on every bowl I make. The first model, a ivory one, did have a little flex, but it was still better than anything else I could use that would measure all around the bowl. The "New" Tompkins Gage't is black, and is even more rigid.