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Tool Rest Lubrication

Mark Goulais

Mark Goulais

Joined
Nov 16, 2024
Messages
9
Likes
4
Location
53010 - Campbellsport,WI
Hello,
I've read here that a regular candle is drawn along the rest to assist the tools in sliding more easily. I've also watched a video where another Turner was using Paraffin wax to accomplish the same. I have a goodly amount of Johnson's Paste Wax that I use to wax the lathe bed. Could this also be used on the tool rest, or is another substance going to work better? (The tool rests I have are new and made of stainless steel.) Please advise. Thank you!
 
Paste wax is usually carnauba wax and some turpentine, same as Kiwi neutral shoe polish. It will work fine. I do keep a couple of the "Slick Sticks" from Woodturner's Wonders around my shop for lubing bandsaw blades, plane irons, and tool rests, even the hardened drill rod ones. I don't use it on my CBN wheels though.

robo hippy
 
robo hippy said:
Paste wax is usually carnauba wax and some turpentine, same as Kiwi neutral shoe polish. It will work fine. I do keep a couple of the "Slick Sticks" from Woodturner's Wonders around my shop for lubing bandsaw blades, plane irons, and tool rests, even the hardened drill rod ones. I don't use it on my CBN wheels though.

robo hippy
Click to expand...
The slick stick makes a huge mess on the CBN wheels if you use too much of it. Which I have done and find myself cleaning it off right after. After my next cleaning I’m going to just try a little bit and see if that works better for the CBN wheel.
 
I did really gunk up my CBN wheels with the Slick Stick once. I do like to put a drop of the Trend lapping fluid in the bevel of my tools some times when sharpening. If I apply it directly to the wheel, I will get a racing stripe if I stand in front of the wheel....

robo hippy
 
robo hippy said:
I did really gunk up my CBN wheels with the Slick Stick once. I do like to put a drop of the Trend lapping fluid in the bevel of my tools some times when sharpening. If I apply it directly to the wheel, I will get a racing stripe if I stand in front of the wheel....

robo hippy
Click to expand...

I dribble a bit of the Trend fluid on the wheel when it's not spinning, then spread it around the wheel with my finger while rotating it by hand. I eventually learned how much to use so it wouldn't throw liquid at me. If I accidentally dribble too much a little corner of paper towel is handy. After sharpening, I often wipe off what's left of the fluid and the steel particles left behind, again wiping with a bit of paper towel.
 
Mark Goulais said:
Hello,
I've read here that a regular candle is drawn along the rest to assist the tools in sliding more easily. I've also watched a video where another Turner was using Paraffin wax to accomplish the same. I have a goodly amount of Johnson's Paste Wax that I use to wax the lathe bed. Could this also be used on the tool rest, or is another substance going to work better? (The tool rests I have are new and made of stainless steel.) Please advise. Thank you!
Click to expand...

Solid wax like paraffin or beeswax can get sticky, depending on the temperature. The Renaissance wax or the Johnson's paste wax is not and should work well (apply, dry, wipe with cloth)

All the toolrests I use now are Robust with hardened steel rods on the top and have never felt the need to lubricate them - all tools slide easily.

For softer steel and especially cast iron, a sharp edge on a skew or other rectangular shaft can dig in and make an indent the tool can catch on. In this case, dressing with a fine file or fine sandpaper backed with a piece of wood can help.

For cast iron that gets beat up, I would also file. Another thing I've done for cast rests with dents or porosity is fill with JB Weld epoxy and file and sand smooth. A soft wax might be useful afterwards.

However, if the corners of rectangular HSS tools feel sharp it's best to round them over a bit with an extra fine diamond hone.

JKJ
 
If your tool rest is topped with stainless steel, you probably don't need a lubricant. The wax strategy is for iron tool rests. And please don't be like Alan and file your tool rest--his is iron and needs the occasional filing, but stainless steel does not.

This is also a good opportunity to strongly recommend taking advantage of your local woodturning club's mentoring program. (which would probably be Oshkosh, unless you like the Neenah or New Berlin groups better)
 
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It’s too bad that Johnson’s Paste Wax was discontinued several years ago. Fortunately, I still have enough to last the rest of my life. It is the perfect lubricant for just about anything. Even though the SS rods on Robust and Sinner tool rests are fairly smooth, I feel obligated to improve them by polishing with silicon carbide sandpaper starting with 600 grit and going to at least 2500 grit for a mirror like finish. It does make a difference in how smoothly tools glide. After the silicon carbide polishing, I use Tormek metal polish and finally I use Johnson’s Paste Wax for the coup de grâce. I apply a thin film, let it dry, and then buff it off with an old t-shirt.
 
On the off chance that you are unaware, you can epoxy a steel rod to the top of a cast iron tool rest and eliminate the dings and dents. D-way Tools sells rods of various lengths for this application. Here is a link to one of the options and inside the description is a link to an installation video.

I have no experience with this solution. I converted to Steve Sinner tool rests a while ago, am very satisfied and haven't looked further.
 
Jim Reynolds said:
On the off chance that you are unaware, you can epoxy a steel rod to the top of a cast iron tool rest and eliminate the dings and dents. D-way Tools sells rods of various lengths for this application. Here is a link to one of the options and inside the description is a link to an installation video.

I have no experience with this solution. I converted to Steve Sinner tool rests a while ago, am very satisfied and haven't looked further.
Click to expand...
Since I installed the hardened steel rod on my PowerMatic toolrest about a year ago, I’ve not needed to use wax on it.
 
Jim Reynolds said:
On the off chance that you are unaware, you can epoxy a steel rod to the top of a cast iron tool rest and eliminate the dings and dents.
Click to expand...

Many have done that.

If wanting to repair dings, porosity in the cast iron, etc without a LOT of filing, I've put JB weld in the divot then filed/sanded. (But haven't used or wanted to use a cast iron rest for a long time. Long live Robust.

JKJ
 
RichColvin said:
Since I installed the hardened steel rod on my PowerMatic toolrest about a year ago, I’ve not needed to use wax on it.
Click to expand...
Rich-I also installed the D-Way rod on that PM cast-iron tool-rest, and love it. But even that I will wet-sand with high-grit or 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits to shine it up, and like others, buff in a coat of Johnson's. Slicker'n owl snot on a bowling ball! Now I want to take it a few steps farther and try Bill's mirror-polished tool-rest above. My obsessive personality would be absolutely suited to this, as my often-babied cast-iron bed ways can attest. 😏
 
Mark, you may want to use that Johnsons paste wax sparingly on a tool rest. Since it hasn't been made in quite awhile, there is quite a cult following and interest in it. Used cans $50-$75, new $75-$200+. It's a crazy world out there. I've given so much of it away to friends over the years, looking back now I could be rich, ha ha. I've got about 3 or so cans left and have had some pretty serious offers to part with some. I'm hanging on, I know it's stupid as there are so many like products out there. I have some Renaissance wax also but really like Johnsons paste wax a lot more. Anyway you've been given some good suggestions on tool rests and their maintenance already.
 
Ed Sandle said:
Mark, you may want to use that Johnsons paste wax sparingly on a tool rest. Since it hasn't been made in quite awhile, there is quite a cult following and interest in it. Used cans $50-$75, new $75-$200+.
Click to expand...

Checked a shelf today and found an unopened 1-lb can of Johnson's paste wax. Who knows what else on on those shelves and other shelves and behind cabinet doors...

JKJ
 
Things that make you go hmmmmm.

I opened up my can of JPW and it sure smells like there are petroleum distillants present. It makes me think use of paste wax serves as a solvent for the sap that collects of a tool rest. The mere act of cleaning the rest bar gives the impression that lubrication is present when in fact the act of removing the sap removes the stickiness of the sap and the tool once again glides over the polished surface. Also due to the small surface area contact, there isn’t enough contact to detect lubrication.

My hypothesis is a solvent such as mineral spirits would be just as efficacious as paste wax initially. However, the perception lubrication is present is the fact sap doesn’t adhere as readily to the waxed surface so it takes longer to build a sticky coat on the tool rest bar.

So, is my hypothesis bovine scatology, pontification, or really what is happening? The only way to I can think of is to wax half the tool rest and clean with a solvent of the other half. Then try to do an objective sliding of the tool over the rest and compare after the initial cleaning and as turning progresses.

UPDATE - The snout was correct regarding was correct regarding solvent. Here’s the MSDS for JPW.
 

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