You might find the following to be a new wrinkle:
Take a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel and make a set of light scores about 1/16" apart across the top of a scraper perpendicular to the edge - I make the scores maybe 1/32" deep - consistency is not an issue.
Each tooth acts as a shield to the next tooth preventing too heavy a scrape/cut. The corner of each tooth is a point that will remove stock. Kinda like 5-grit "sharpenable sandpaper".
I make mine out of M42 wire-stripper blades I get from a surplus shop for $.50 each. You can slot the back to mount on a Stewart hook tool or you can make a straight tool with 3/4" or larger drill rod with the end cut a 10 to 15-degrees. Presenting the edge at a 10 to 15-degree angle works good for me.
Some blades are 1/2" wide and only four or five teeth. Others are over 1" wide and maybe 8 or 9 teeth. The edge is always curved to keep the corners out of the cut.
You'll find it a very controllable and civilized tool. Comes in handy when removing bumps and tool-marks from the inside of hollow-forms. While I'm not a bowl guy, don't see why it wouldn't work to smooth the inside of large, or small, bowls.
I got the idea from the tooth-blade for bench planes used for fast stock removal.
To anyone trying this, let me know how it works for you. To quote Keynes: There is no harm in being sometimes wrong - especially if one is promptly found out.
John
Take a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel and make a set of light scores about 1/16" apart across the top of a scraper perpendicular to the edge - I make the scores maybe 1/32" deep - consistency is not an issue.
Each tooth acts as a shield to the next tooth preventing too heavy a scrape/cut. The corner of each tooth is a point that will remove stock. Kinda like 5-grit "sharpenable sandpaper".
I make mine out of M42 wire-stripper blades I get from a surplus shop for $.50 each. You can slot the back to mount on a Stewart hook tool or you can make a straight tool with 3/4" or larger drill rod with the end cut a 10 to 15-degrees. Presenting the edge at a 10 to 15-degree angle works good for me.
Some blades are 1/2" wide and only four or five teeth. Others are over 1" wide and maybe 8 or 9 teeth. The edge is always curved to keep the corners out of the cut.
You'll find it a very controllable and civilized tool. Comes in handy when removing bumps and tool-marks from the inside of hollow-forms. While I'm not a bowl guy, don't see why it wouldn't work to smooth the inside of large, or small, bowls.
I got the idea from the tooth-blade for bench planes used for fast stock removal.
To anyone trying this, let me know how it works for you. To quote Keynes: There is no harm in being sometimes wrong - especially if one is promptly found out.
John