I'm a new turner and purchased a nice Tormek - 8 system. Since I have little experience with sharpening tools I allowed my research on water sharpening vs. traditional grinding to sway me. I admit that the propaganda that the Tormek people put out probably swayed me more than it should. Anyway I now have this Tormek-8 outfit with the woodturning jigs. I have been reading folks back and forth about different grinders and have managed to get baffled about the whole process.
Use Tormek for everything:
1 shaping tools (old ones that need refurbishing- I have a bunch)
2 sharpening newly purchased tools - Is this necessary?)
3 routine sharping and honing tools as needed.
Add a slow/fast/both speed grinder to the mix?
Sorry for the newbie questions. Sometimes there too much information on this stuff.
Hello Michael-
You're a new turner, welcome to it! Try not to drown in the details and choices, keep it simple as you learn and grow. Master the basics first.
Your #1- you have a bunch of old tools that need refurbishing. Old turning tools, other woodworking tools (plane blades, bench and carving chisels, etc.)? If they are turning tools, how old? What brand? What kind of steel? How much rehab? If they say Sears on them, toss them. I've been there. If they are carbon steel turning tools (lots of bright, pale yellow sparks on a regular dry bench grinder), I'd probably steer you away from rehabing those, too (been there), and instead concentrate on modern turning tools. And you don't need multiples of every type of tool, a basic kit that does 80-90% of your spindle and faceplate turning can be done with 5 or 6 tools (*see below). Shaping is generally done once to a tool, sharpening is done constantly. Is there someone local (local club member, maybe) who could help you regrind on a bench grinder, then you maintain them on your Tormek?
Your #2- sharpening newly purchased tools, yes, it is necessary, and then sharpening them every "few minutes" thereafter. I'm guessing you meant reshaping new tools. Most times, yes, in particular bowl gouges. Spindle gouges, yes, some reshaping. Roughing gouges, parting tools, skew chisels, maybe not as much, or not anything your Tormek couldn't handle with some patience on your part, but shaping is more or less a one-time event, after that it is a quick trip to the wheel, even the Tormek, to sharpen a dulled edge.
Your #3, this is where your Tormek will accel, maintaining the sharp edges you need to turn wood. And if you do other types of woodworking, those edges as well.
All grinder types, all jigs, all freehand methods, are nothing more than a means to an end, to bring two plains together at a zero-degree radius line that we call a cutting edge. Time, patience, practice, and carefully examining what and why you are doing something at the grinder will help you master the process as you go. Once it clicks in your mind, it's easy. I would not abandon the Tormek yet. Discover how it can be your go-to machine. You'll learn its strengths and weaknesses and how it can help. Then you'll know what to do to either supplement the Tormek, or go in a different direction from it. Information overload is all too easy in this craft. Remember, the basics will nearly always get you there, the rest is someone trying to lighten your wallet.
(*Basic tool kit for the beginner, in my opinion- M2 High Speed Steel tools, time-tested brands such as Robert Sorby or Crown: 1/2" bowl gouge with a swept back grind; 1/2" spindle gouge with a swept back grind; 1" rectangular cross section skew chisel (no oval skew chisels!!!); 1" round nose scraper; 3/4" roughing gouge will handle most spindle roughing; 1/8" parting tool which can serve a few purposes. That's 6 tools of good historic reputation that will serve you well for years. Other sizes of the same tool types can be added later. Boutique, hi-tech steel tools with fancy aluminum handles and grind profiles named after professional turners can be added later if you desire, but for hobbiest turners they shouldn't be your priority in the early stages.)