Tormek Great Customer Service & Diamond Wheel Question

[Rick Bucker]

I have had a problem with the honing wheel wobbling on my Tormek T-7. Their technical services in Sweeden worked with me and are now sending a replacement drive wheel. Great technical support.

Has anyone used their diamond stones to sharpen knives or turning tools? If so, what do you think about the diamond stones?

Rick

 

[robo hippy]

I have them, but haven't used them yet..... I need to get that set up and in use some day.... Only suggestion I would make would be to use the fluid that comes with them to prevent rust. Rather than fill up the trough, I would mix it in a spray bottle and spray the wheel. I would also wipe the wheel off when done. This is pretty much what I do with my diamond lapping plates for my flat work tools. I kind of wish they made an 80 grit wheel for when I have to rough shape an old plane iron.....

robo hippy

 

[Bill Boehme]

Like the hippy, I also have the Tormek diamond wheels but have barely used them. The main thing about using the diamond wheels is to use very light pressure. This is the opposite of using the standard gray stone and the blackstone wheel where you normally use moderate to heavy pressure ... especially for tools like the skew chisel that have a wide bevel.

 

[RichColvin]

I have the set of all 3 diamond grindstones: DC-250, DF-250, & DE-250. I use them for sharpening my turning and other woodworking tools mostly, and the occasional knife. What is great about them for the turning tools (and drill bits) is that you can swap out the grinding wheel without have to re-setup the universal support bar (USB).

I use the DF-250 about 90% of the time.

• Regarding the DC-250: I added a BGM-100 to my bench grinder, and that is what I use most often when major reshaping of a tool is necessary (unless the tool is not high speed steel). This is why I use the coarse wheel so little.
  • I will use the DC-250 on a drill bit if is in rough shape. It works well for that, and I can quickly jump to the DF-250 for the next step of sharpening.
  • I also use the DC-250 when major reshaping is needed on steels which are not high speed. Some examples include new carving tools, and chisels which have nicks in them.
• Regarding the DE-250: This is great for bench chisels. Gets them really sharp, and provides a great edge quickly. You can use a finer stone to hone more if necessary.
  • I also have the SJ-250 Japanese water stone. If you are honing an edge, This is a good next step before using the SJ-250.
  • Alternatively, you can hone the edge using paper wheels on your bench grinder (e.g., https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/8-x-58-Paper-Wheel-Sharpening-Kit--P1144.aspx). I find this is great for the skews and spindle gouges, especially on the final passes of your work. Leaves a surface that is glass-smooth.
  • The DE-250 is great for the primary facet on a drill bit, especially smaller bits. Gives a very smooth edge.

One thing which I have implemented (and recommend) is the use of dedicated USBs:

1. One for use with the TTS-100 at the A Setting. I lock this in using a collar, not using the nut. By the way, the US-105 for the smaller Tormek works fine for this.
2. One for use with the TTS-100 at the B Setting.
3. One with an SVD-110 tool rest locked into position for resharpening skews (I primarily use the Alan Lacer skews and sharpen them at 40°). I removed the knob and lock it into place with set screws.
4. One with an SVD-110 tool rest locked into position for resharpening scrapers (I have my scrapers sharpened as negative rake, with both sides the same angle, 22.5°).

I leave the DF-250 on the machine, and simply drop the desired USB into the machine, resharpen, and get back to work.

 

[Rick Bucker]

I have the set of all 3 diamond grindstones: DC-250, DF-250, & DE-250. I use them for sharpening my turning and other woodworking tools mostly, and the occasional knife. What is great about them for the turning tools (and drill bits) is that you can swap out the grinding wheel without have to re-setup the universal support bar (USB).

I use the DF-250 about 90% of the time.

• Regarding the DC-250: I added a BGM-100 to my bench grinder, and that is what I use most often when major reshaping of a tool is necessary (unless the tool is not high speed steel). This is why I use the coarse wheel so little.
  • I will use the DC-250 on a drill bit if is in rough shape. It works well for that, and I can quickly jump to the DF-250 for the next step of sharpening.
  • I also use the DC-250 when major reshaping is needed on steels which are not high speed. Some examples include new carving tools, and chisels which have nicks in them.
• Regarding the DE-250: This is great for bench chisels. Gets them really sharp, and provides a great edge quickly. You can use a finer stone to hone more if necessary.
  • I also have the SJ-250 Japanese water stone. If you are honing an edge, This is a good next step before using the SJ-250.
  • Alternatively, you can hone the edge using paper wheels on your bench grinder (e.g., https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/8-x-58-Paper-Wheel-Sharpening-Kit--P1144.aspx). I find this is great for the skews and spindle gouges, especially on the final passes of your work. Leaves a surface that is glass-smooth.
  • The DE-250 is great for the primary facet on a drill bit, especially smaller bits. Gives a very smooth edge.

One thing which I have implemented (and recommend) is the use of dedicated USBs:

1. One for use with the TTS-100 at the A Setting. I lock this in using a collar, not using the nut. By the way, the US-105 for the smaller Tormek works fine for this.
2. One for use with the TTS-100 at the B Setting.
3. One with an SVD-110 tool rest locked into position for resharpening skews (I primarily use the Alan Lacer skews and sharpen them at 40°). I removed the knob and lock it into place with set screws.
4. One with an SVD-110 tool rest locked into position for resharpening scrapers (I have my scrapers sharpened as negative rake, with both sides the same angle, 22.5°).

I leave the DF-250 on the machine, and simply drop the desired USB into the machine, resharpen, and get back to work.

Hi Rich,

Thank you for your response. A lot of great information! Not sure where to begin with my comments/questions. I really like the idea of dedicated USBs for skews and scrapers. I also use the Lacer skews and negative rake scrapers. Will check into the paper wheel kit.

Do you find that sharpening the drill bits using the drill jig versus other methods to be cost effective?

I am in the Adirondacks on vacation and brought my Tormek up to sharpen knives and garden tools. I brought up an old tube of PA-70. The tube is “squishy” but the compound comes out like a soft eraser and can’t be applied to the leather wheel. I have ordered more of it. In the meantime do you know if I can mix a little light oil or something else to thin it out to use it? I also left a message for Tormek USA.

Thank you again for the information!

Rick

 

[Rick Bucker]

Hi Rich,

Thank you for your response. A lot of great information! Not sure where to begin with my comments/questions. I really like the idea of dedicated USBs for skews and scrapers. I also use the Lacer skews and negative rake scrapers. Will check into the paper wheel kit.

Do you find that sharpening the drill bits using the drill jig versus other methods to be cost effective?

I am in the Adirondacks on vacation and brought my Tormek up to sharpen knives and garden tools. I brought up an old tube of PA-70. The tube is “squishy” but the compound comes out like a soft eraser and can’t be applied to the leather wheel. I have ordered more of it. In the meantime do you know if I can mix a little light oil or something else to thin it out to use it? I also left a message for Tormek USA.

Thank you again for the information!

Rick

I mixed a couple of dollops of the PA-80 with a squirt or two of 3 in 1 oil. Seemed to apply ok to the wheel but it was messy. I asked Tormek Technical for suggestions yesterday but have not heard back.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I like the dedicated USB idea. I have four or five USBs that I have accumulated over the last 24 years ... the one that originally came with my Tormek in 1999 wasn't threaded.

@Rick Bucker if you haven't already done so, I think it's a good idea to saturate the leather honing wheel with light mineral oil (the stuff that can be found in a pharmacy). This was the recommendation of Jeff Farris, the original US distributor for Tormek. 3-in-1 oil might work, but I think it might be a bit too greasy. The PA-70 honing compound normally has a consistency comparable to toothpaste. Mixing it with a small amount of oil sounds like a good idea if it's too stiff to smear onto the leather wheel.

 

[Rick Bucker]

I like the dedicated USB idea. I have four or five USBs that I have accumulated over the last 24 years ... the one that originally came with my Tormek in 1999 wasn't threaded.

@Rick Bucker if you haven't already done so, I think it's a good idea to saturate the leather honing wheel with light mineral oil (the stuff that can be found in a pharmacy). This was the recommendation of Jeff Farris, the original US distributor for Tormek. 3-in-1 oil might work, but I think it might be a bit too greasy. The PA-70 honing compound normally has a consistency comparable to toothpaste. Mixing it with a small amount of oil sounds like a good idea if it's too stiff to smear onto the leather wheel.

Hi Bill,

I had some 3 in 1 oil in the family cabin in the Adirondacks but no mineral oil. Mixing with 3 in 1 oil seemed a little greasy. I will be heading into town tomorrow and will pick up some mineral oil for comparison.

Rick

 

[RichColvin]

Here are some pics of the dedicated USBs





For the drill bits, I do see savings for resharpening them vs replacing them. But the real value is for the better cuts in expensive woods. I see far less blowout when using a sharpened bit. And I’m also a bit fan of the 4-facet grinds.

I can’t compare it to other sharpeners like the Drill Doctor. I don’t have one of those. Since I had the Tormek already, I bought the DBS-22 jig instead.

 

[Russ Braun]

Nice set up Rich! I love how easy it is to change the wheels…they are pricy for sure. I mostly use the middle grit wheel; i just sharpen my gouges on it. Since the blue wheel that comes with the grinder can do 1000/ finest grit (I think), I just got the rough and fine wheels. I premixed the anti corrosion fluid in a gallon of water, kept a cap on the bottle, actually created a weird microcosm teeming with some kind of moldy growth. I don’t suggest doing that. It’s a solid grinding system!

 

[Rick Bucker]

Thanks for all of the great info.