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Trying to put together a homemade camera hollowing system

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I'm hoping someone can suggest some options for camera "mounting" to the tool. I've done a fair amount of looking and I know it's out there, I just don't know what the parts are called and where to find them. I'm talking about the "arms" that attach to the tool that goes up then 90 degree turn out to above the tooltip. Most of the guys on here that have build a homemade system already had a laser system to just rig the camera to. I don't. I found one on amazon for about $80 but it was only 10" from the turn which would probably work but no room for any larger pieces in the future. I suppose I'm willing to buy a mcnaughton or carter laser system if it comes to that but if there was a cheaper alternative i'll jump on that. Would much rather just buy the parts to build the arm if at all possible.

Thank you in advance for any input you might provide.
 

Dennis J Gooding

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Lyle Jamieson sells a Laser based system intended to mount on his boring bar but perhaps adaptable to your needs.
 
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I have the Ron Brown and you cannot get replacement laser . Also the knobs need to be changed to lever knobs to ease tightening. Also I had to adapt mine to a longer top rod by adding an extension. Tim Yoder has a great looking system which till I figured out how to do mine was what I was going to do. Look at his for parts ideas.

I searched for ideas on making the mount but could not find. The two problems for mount are mounting to tool and handling adjustment. If you can find lightweight connectors to do that then 90% of the job is done.
 
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Yes, the mast/boom/adjuster parts are what I'm looking for. There are some electrical supply places that sell parts for 3/4" conduit. There is a website called makerpipe.com that seems to be close but maybe too large. That Ron Brown setup is great as are a few others. I'm just trying to find the t-connectors and clamps for the 1/4" or 3/8" aluminum tubing that will allow me to build my own for $20 instead of spending $100+ for a premade one. The people selling the entire setup have spent time sourcing parts and it very well might come down to purchasing one. Currently have about 30 windows open, I'll find what I'm looking for eventually. Thanks for all the help. I appreciate the community here as a valuable resource and am thankful to have access to it.
 
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I have the Ron Brown and you cannot get replacement laser . Also the knobs need to be changed to lever knobs to ease tightening. Also I had to adapt mine to a longer top rod by adding an extension.
True ... I bought lever clamps from Grizzly for a couple of bucks apiece. I have never used Brown's laser ... made a simple wooden adapter that goes in the laser holder on Brown's jig and hot-glued a backup camera to it.
 
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Freelton, ON
I have all the pieces but never get around to setting it up. I built a Jamieson Hollowing System years ago and I used wood dowelling and homemade wooden clamps to mount my laser system. Plan to do the same with the camera if I ever get to it. My sister asked me casually to make her urn for whenever it is needed and one of these days I will get to it and put it to use.
 
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Lyles parts work just fine for holding a small diameter borescope camera that I use.
Richard; I too am tinkering with setting up a camera system and I have Lyle's system. I thought that I would have to epoxy the camera to the boring bar but you seem to be saying that his current laser attachment is OK for attaching a camera? If so, I would most certainly appreciate the info because that would be the last bit of info that I would need to set me on a course of action. Thanks.
 
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Richard; I too am tinkering with setting up a camera system and I have Lyle's system. I thought that I would have to epoxy the camera to the boring bar but you seem to be saying that his current laser attachment is OK for attaching a camera? If so, I would most certainly appreciate the info because that would be the last bit of info that I would need to set me on a course of action. Thanks.

I have Lyle’s boring and laser system. I have a ~1-1/2” square x ~1/2” thick camera, lens comes out the large surface. Turned a mount out of ~1-1/4” square stock, leaving a-~1/4” thick square at one end, and turned a ~1/2” x 2” dowel for the remainder. The dowel fits in the laser mount, and the camera is mounted to the square with foam type double sided tape, hot melt glue will also work.
 
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Yes, the mast/boom/adjuster parts are what I'm looking for. There are some electrical supply places that sell parts for 3/4" conduit. There is a website called makerpipe.com that seems to be close but maybe too large. That Ron Brown setup is great as are a few others. I'm just trying to find the t-connectors and clamps for the 1/4" or 3/8" aluminum tubing that will allow me to build my own for $20 instead of spending $100+ for a premade one. The people selling the entire setup have spent time sourcing parts and it very well might come down to purchasing one. Currently have about 30 windows open, I'll find what I'm looking for eventually. Thanks for all the help. I appreciate the community here as a valuable resource and am thankful to have access to it.

Small tubing will not work. When it is hung out over the tool it will flop all over if not bend, especially with some out of balance work. I use Lyle’s laser mount which is 1” thin wall aluminum. AL is better than steel conduit due to weight. Try the conduit it might work - is there 1” conduit? Larger, thinner wall tubing is best - lighter weight and higher bending resistance (more rigid) for out of balance work.
 
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Hey tom,
I have have been expanding my hollowing system over the years as to make bigger pieces. My basic system is similar to Jamison’s. The beam that holds the laser was too short for my new boring bars so I took a piece of pvc and tapped a few holes to secure it With knob screws. It telescopes over the original horizontal laser bar extending its range. I got tired of using lasers with push button switches and bought one from amazon that I hooked up to a battery box that had An on and off switch. Pictured below is the pvc that fits over the original laser support. The lasers are from amazon 3 for 8.50 https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Adjustable-Positioning-Telescope-Horizontal/dp/B072XF49LK/ref=sr_1_11?
dchild=1&keywords=laser+12mm&qid=1594140671&sr=8-11
The battery case Is radio shack but the equivalent is also available on line.
You can drill a 12mm hole in the pvc directly and secure it with set screws although I had a piece of aluminum tube that I used.
It wouldn’t be a bad idea to invest in a set of drill tap bits. I bought a set from HFT for about 12 bucks.
Ok, if you want to attach a camera that has a tripod mount (1/4 20 threads also shown below) buy a Bicycle mount tripod also available on Amazon For $8.00 https://www.amazon.com/SUPON-Threaded-Compatible-Microphone-Motorcycle/dp/B00PICAE4C/ref=sr_1_20?
dchild=1&keywords=Bicycle+tripod+mount&qid=1594141337&sr=8-20

Alternatively you can tap a 1/4 20 directly through your pvc and with a stop nut rig up the camera that way.

if I knew what your boring bar assembly looked like, i may be able to recommend how to connect a vertical bar.
image.jpg
 
Last edited:
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My setup is similar to Doug’s above - using the original laser mount from Lyle Jamieson’s rig (home brew version using his parts). Turned a 1/2” dowel and mounted the camera to it.where the laser mounted - works fine - took about 15 minutes to put together. My Swann camera sounds similar - about 1 to 1-1/4 square, 3/8” thick with a bracket that rotates about the camera lens axis. Very light weight and small. The whole thing is very easy to adjust with a single knob to secure.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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I have the Ron Brown and you cannot get replacement laser . Also the knobs need to be changed to lever knobs to ease tightening. Also I had to adapt mine to a longer top rod by adding an extension. Tim Yoder has a great looking system which till I figured out how to do mine was what I was going to do. Look at his for parts ideas.

I searched for ideas on making the mount but could not find. The two problems for mount are mounting to tool and handling adjustment. If you can find lightweight connectors to do that then 90% of the job is done.
I wanted to replace some of Lyle's system parts. Looking online is just impossible. Ended up calling Lyle. He sent me extra parts at no charge. Great customer service on his part. I believe he will sell you what you need.
 
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My setup is similar to Doug’s above - using the original laser mount from Lyle Jamieson’s rig (home brew version using his parts). Turned a 1/2” dowel and mounted the camera to it.where the laser mounted - works fine - took about 15 minutes to put together. My Swann camera sounds similar - about 1 to 1-1/4 square, 3/8” thick with a bracket that rotates about the camera lens axis. Very light weight and small. The whole thing is very easy to adjust with a single knob to secure.
Thanks to both you and Doug for the info. This sure helps. I'll put either/or of you on my Christmas card list for a photo of your attachment.
 
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I have a Swan camera also, couldnt remember the name. I think there are quite a few cameras that can work. The camera lens and distance to work CL determine what you will see on screen in terms of actual vs screen size, and of course the screen size itself. I have some pics I’ll post.
 
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if I knew what your boring bar assembly looked like, i may be able to recommend how to connect a vertical bar.
View attachment 34093
i bought from amazon something called "turners laser guide". it's easy enough to return if I don't like it. i also bought a fairly cheap bluetooth endoscope. nothing has arrived yet so time will tell. I went to home depot and got 4' of 3/8" aluminum tubing and will be making some "custom" connections from hardwood to see if that might work as well.

i don't have a boring bar and captive system. i'm currently using trent bosch style 5/8" hollowing tools and an articulated arm I'm not too sure if i'm happy about yet.

doug freeman, I came to the conclusion that aluminum would be the better option too. seems I might have went too small. we shall see. it's worth a $6 experiment fee.

ed weingarden, thanks for the tip!

I'll update with prototypes, funky or not. i know i learn as much from other peoples mistakes as from successes quite often.

if none of this works i'll call lyle.

thanks for all the help, it's encouraging.
 
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"Turners Laser Guide" on Amazon is the product designed by Ron Brown, referenced in several comments above.
 
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I have Ron Browns laser guide as well and use it with handheld tools. It should would with your hand held tools - it just clamps on to the tool, usually around the ferrule. It is limited in length, ~8-9” I think, but thats more than I do by hand. I have not put the camera on it but no reason it wont work.
 
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The template I use, and then pics of the template on the screen, inside and outside of the work. The template circle sizing is determined by the magnification due to the camera/lens and distance from spindle CL. Mine is 3.1:1 with the shorter riser for the laser jig, to allow getting under my steady rest.


Hollow Template.jpg IMG_2176_med.JPG IMG_2177_med.JPG
 
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I got my laser guide and camera. have not had a chance to unbox it and probably wont for a few days unfortunately but I'll report back when I do (i'm sure with more questions). thanks for all the help from everyone here. i appreciate it.
 
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Some Pics of a Swan camera mounted to Lyle's laser mount. I think the laser support tube is ~ 24" providing ~20" tool depth.

View attachment 34140 View attachment 34141 View attachment 34142 View attachment 34143
Doug: Thank you...the pics are a big big help. I ordered my video setup today. If you don't mind one more question...what is the reason that you have installed the 2 wooden stakes in the rear of your boring bar? Does it have something to do with clearance around your steady-rest?
 
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Its just 1piece. The purpose is to increase the vertical axis rigidity. I would call it a brace. I twice turn a lot of my HF’s. They warp of course, creating a lot of interrupted cut initially, and That causes a lot of camera movement. The brace reduces it but doesnt eliminate it - its too close to the vertical post. I want to be able to swap boring bars without moving the brace. It helps to reduce the stress on the vertical post and T connectors as well.
 
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Ron's turners laser guide seems to be adequate. Still blows me away something like that costs $80 but he took the time to source or build the parts which is what i've been unable to do so i'm happy to pay it. I'll still be building a homemade version out of aluminum and wood which I'm sure will work as well. Also, a 1/2" aluminum tube from home depot nearly fits in the connectors for ron's setup and I have no doubt if i need more length, a couple wraps of electrical tape and I can rig the tubing up for as long as I need.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MV6X4M4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is the camera I bought and it's not going to work. as someone above mentioned, there is a bit of latency/lag between the screen and real time which isn't a huge deal but it might get dicey entering the cut if I'm paying more attention to the screen than the tool. I think I'm going to return it and go for a wired option.

I checked out Swanns site and dont see any cameras close to the size you guys have been talking about. https://smile.amazon.com/Ansice-Camera-IR-filter-Security-Systems/dp/B06XH5CM4W/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1GPY01J5SVGNP&dchild=1&keywords=ansice+camera&qid=1594513903&s=industrial&sprefix=ansice,industrial,222&sr=1-2-catcorr this is one I'm considering and hoping some of you in the know might chime in on the adequacy of it? I don't know squat about this stuff other than "that looks like the right shape".
 
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Ron's turners laser guide seems to be adequate. Still blows me away something like that costs $80 but he took the time to source or build the parts which is what i've been unable to do so i'm happy to pay it. I'll still be building a homemade version out of aluminum and wood which I'm sure will work as well. Also, a 1/2" aluminum tube from home depot nearly fits in the connectors for ron's setup and I have no doubt if i need more length, a couple wraps of electrical tape and I can rig the tubing up for as long as I need.

[URL]https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MV6X4M4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is the camera I bought and it's not going to work. as someone above mentioned, there is a bit of latency/lag between the screen and real time which isn't a huge deal but it might get dicey entering the cut if I'm paying more attention to the screen than the tool. I think I'm going to return it and go for a wired option.

I checked out Swanns site and dont see any cameras close to the size you guys have been talking about. https://smile.amazon.com/Ansice-Camera-IR-filter-Security-Systems/dp/B06XH5CM4W/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1GPY01J5SVGNP&dchild=1&keywords=ansice+camera&qid=1594513903&s=industrial&sprefix=ansice,industrial,222&sr=1-2-catcorr this is one I'm considering and hoping some of you in the know might chime in on the adequacy of it? I don't know squat about this stuff other than "that looks like the right shape".
://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WKG9J35/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/URL] This is the one that was recommended to me by a member of the club I belong to. Just arrived Wednesday, have not time to put it to actual use. But have hooked it up and works as it should no lag in video.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015MHKJNI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the monitor, which also was recommended. Together it’s a plug and play setup. Good luck


Paul
 
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://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WKG9J35/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the one that was recommended to me by a member of the club I belong to. Just arrived Wednesday, have not time to put it to actual use. But have hooked it up and works as it should no lag in video.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015MHKJNI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the monitor, which also was recommended. Together it’s a plug and play setup. Good luck

Great minds must think alike (but that doesn't explain my presence). I just ordered the same monitor and camera last night. They must have had a supply of monitors here in Michigan because it was delivered less than 20 hours after I ordered it! They sure have their logistics together.
The camera won't be here until Friday, but that gives me time to fabricate the arms and mounting hardware.
 
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love to see your arms and mounting setup once complete.

<---- My arms are right there, in the picture. They're kinda scrawny and now have tattoos on them.
OTOH, the mounting setup is going on a Trent Bosch Stabilizer, so I'm just emulating a lot of what he does with the Visualizer. My philosophy is always "Why buy something, when you can make it yourself for twice the price and half the quality?"..
I'll post some pics in a couple days when it's together enough to show something.
 
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<---- My arms are right there, in the picture. They're kinda scrawny and now have tattoos on them.
OTOH, the mounting setup is going on a Trent Bosch Stabilizer, so I'm just emulating a lot of what he does with the Visualizer. My philosophy is always "Why buy something, when you can make it yourself for twice the price and half the quality?"..
I'll post some pics in a couple days when it's together enough to show something.
I like your sense of humor! :)
 
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One thing to pay attention to is the frame rate of the camera you are looking at.
I bought a USB "bore scope" some years back, it works great for something like looking into the vessel to see what the finish looks like.
BUT, the frame rate is not enough enough to see anything when the lathe is running. Either inside to look at the cut or outside like the "visualizer" concept.
 
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Ron's turners laser guide seems to be adequate. Still blows me away something like that costs $80 but he took the time to source or build the parts which is what i've been unable to do so i'm happy to pay it. I'll still be building a homemade version out of aluminum and wood which I'm sure will work as well. Also, a 1/2" aluminum tube from home depot nearly fits in the connectors for ron's setup and I have no doubt if i need more length, a couple wraps of electrical tape and I can rig the tubing up for as long as I need.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MV6X4M4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is the camera I bought and it's not going to work. as someone above mentioned, there is a bit of latency/lag between the screen and real time which isn't a huge deal but it might get dicey entering the cut if I'm paying more attention to the screen than the tool. I think I'm going to return it and go for a wired option.

I checked out Swanns site and dont see any cameras close to the size you guys have been talking about. https://smile.amazon.com/Ansice-Camera-IR-filter-Security-Systems/dp/B06XH5CM4W/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1GPY01J5SVGNP&dchild=1&keywords=ansice+camera&qid=1594513903&s=industrial&sprefix=ansice,industrial,222&sr=1-2-catcorr this is one I'm considering and hoping some of you in the know might chime in on the adequacy of it? I don't know squat about this stuff other than "that looks like the right shape".


Take a look at the wired options.

https://www.amazon.com/Borescopes/b/ref=dp_bc_aui_C_4?ie=UTF8&node=401578011

At $50-$60 they start having their own little monitors.
 
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love to see your arms and mounting setup once complete.

We already covered the arms, but are some shots of the test setup.
20200717_183658.jpg
I'm going to make a better camera mount. This is just a quick & dirty piece to test with.
I'm not that wild about the camera performance, but it'll do for now. I'm sure this one will fall victim to my total inability to leave well enough alone.

20200717_183706.jpg
I made this piece from Delrin, but I'm going to replace it with an aluminum one. The .750 tubing I got at the local hardware store turned out to be .050 undersized,
so it doesn't fit well in the coupler. I may switch the crossarm to 1" tubing so I can run the cable inside for a less cluttered and more protected installation. The .7" tube seems to be
stiff enough, but I'm not happy with the fit.

20200717_183504.jpg
The base is intentionally bored off center to provide a thicker wall for the threaded hole. It 's bolted to the top of the tool holder on the Bosch Stabilizer.

20200717_183751.jpg
Here's the whole thing so far. The monitor is just sitting on the headstock for now. It's all subject to change until I get tired of tinkering with it.

Let me know if you need any other info.
BTW, camera and monitor are nicely compatible. Neither is great, but certainly adequate for our purposes.
The menu system on the monitor is pretty straight forward. I'm feeding the camera into the monitor on the BNC connector.
I'm also looking into a better way of doing the tool overlay, but that'll come later.
 
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