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Tung Oil

I haven't. I'd guess you may not notice a difference in final cured form compared to pure tung oil, but the cure time should be shorter. Use chemical-resistant gloves to apply it (may cause skin reactions), and work in an area of good ventilation, along with whatever other safe usage protocols. The product listing links the MSDS for the product, and about 25-30% of the product is solvents and/or curing additives.
 
Have often thought of trying it out. But down here its very expensive so I have never really got around to it. Also the solvent level tends to vary across brands here and so there are many opinions of which way to go. But glad you brought it up, thanks.
 
Curious if you have a particular reason for tung oil vs linseed oil? What characteristics of the process and final result of a finish are you after? Here's an article by Bob Flexner on "polymerized oils" you might find interesting. It does not mention this particular "finish". Finishes are very confusing, and I think manufacturers and labelers make it so intentionally.

Explaining Polymerized Oil | Popular Woodworking

A reader of my blog asked me to explain what polymerized oil is. So here goes. On one level the explanation is incredibly simple and on another it’s representative of all that makes finishing and…
www.popularwoodworking.com www.popularwoodworking.com
 
Bill Alston said:
I just wondered what the quick drying version was like. Tung oil seems to be a major ingredient in some oil finishes. It also appears to be more durable.

Tung versus Linseed Oil
Click to expand...
Give this a read. I prefer the information from an independent source that is much more objective, like Bob Flexner, vs from a seller’s marketing “stuff” (I cant call it information). There’s a lot of myth and lore about finishes, and it is a bit confusing to wade through. If you want durable, you dont want oil, you want varnish - varnish can be applied to look just like oil, but because it dries harder it is more durable, and can be repaired just like an oil finish.

www.popularwoodworking.com

Linseed Oil vs Tung Oil | Popular Woodworking

The two commonly available pure oil finishes that can be used on furniture and woodwork with decent results because they cure – that is, turn from a liquid to a soft solid – are linseed oil and tung…
www.popularwoodworking.com www.popularwoodworking.com
 
A lot of finishes that are marketed as "oil" are essentially thinned varnishes. Some are mostly polymerized tung or linseed oil plus solvents and dryers, some have alkyd, polyurethane or other resins in the mix for various purposes. I generally refer to such finishes as "wiping varnish", as they can be used in a wipe-on-wipe-off mode to build up thin, smooth, fairly durable coats incrementally. Many can be brushed or sprayed for a faster build as well, but that is not how they are marketed. Best thing is to check the material data sheets to divine the contents and do some experimentation.

Don't expect miracles. I like Sutherland Welles Hard Oil which is a mix of mainly polymerized tung oil, polyurethane, and citrus and hydrocarbon solvents. There are a lot of other products out there with similar characteristics. Long ago I used to mix boiled linseed oil, gloss spar varnish and mineral spirits in equal proportions.
 
Doug Freeman said:
Give this a read. I prefer the information from an independent source that is much more objective, like Bob Flexner, vs from a seller’s marketing “stuff” (I cant call it information). There’s a lot of myth and lore about finishes, and it is a bit confusing to wade through. If you want durable, you dont want oil, you want varnish - varnish can be applied to look just like oil, but because it dries harder it is more durable, and can be repaired just like an oil finish.

www.popularwoodworking.com

Linseed Oil vs Tung Oil | Popular Woodworking

The two commonly available pure oil finishes that can be used on furniture and woodwork with decent results because they cure – that is, turn from a liquid to a soft solid – are linseed oil and tung…
www.popularwoodworking.com www.popularwoodworking.com
Click to expand...
No, the last thing I want is varnish. When I use oil, it’s because I can refinish it at any time. Think chopping board for example.
 
Bill Alston said:
No, the last thing I want is varnish. When I use oil, it’s because I can refinish it at any time. Think chopping board for example.
Click to expand...
You clearly don’t understand. Use a thin varnish (which is what danish oil is) and apply like DO or oil, soak, wipe off. Very repairable, just like oil. Finished 100’s of items, turned and furniture, this way. As I said, there is a lot of confusion about finishes.
 
Check out Tallahassee Tung Oil. The owner recently set up a booth at our annual expo and was able to talk with him a bit. It is pure tung oil with no VOCs. He did say that it can be thinned with DNA to speed up drying time.
 
Lou Currier said:
Check out Tallahassee Tung Oil. The owner recently set up a booth at our annual expo and was able to talk with him a bit. It is pure tung oil with no VOCs. He did say that it can be thinned with DNA to speed up drying time.
Click to expand...
Thin with denatured alcohol? Do they actually mix? I'd have thought mineral spirits.
 
I recently got some polymerized tung oil from the Spirit Boat Store. It's quite viscous stuff, thinned it almost 50/50 with citrus solvent. I'm guessing the polymerizing process makes it thick and you have to thin it with something. Haven't tried thinning with DNA but that makes sense as it seems clean up well with a DNA soaked towel. Wet sanding with TO works.
 
I also use tung oil and citrus solvent from the Spirit Boat Store. The price is reasonable and the quality is good. I add a small amount of Japan Drier to speed up the drying to 24 hours.
 
Lou Currier said:
Another question about tung oil, can it be used for wet sanding like BLO?
Click to expand...
Pure Tung oil would be too thick for wet sanding for me. I have used a 50% dilution with thinner or turpentine, let dry and wipe perpendicular to the grain. Your mileage may vary.
 
I'm an oil guy, for nearly 30 years of turning. Tung and linseed, and homemade blends, I've used it all. That said, I've always been curious to know how deeply into the wood various oils and blends will penetrate. Off the top of my head, it seems an experiment could be done on various species samples of flat boards, sanded to, oh, 240 grit, maybe 320, then mix oil-soluable dye into the oils/blends. Lay out control zones for a single applications, and zones for 2, 3, and even 4 applications. Allow a full 30-day cure. Rip the board through the test zones, and hand plane the edge for clarity, and see how deeply the tinted oil penetrated.

Now, am I going to do this? Not likely. But if one of our in-house scientific-types wanted to run with it, boy, that would be great! Could probably get it published, too.
 
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