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Turned wood boxes inside finish?

Joined
Apr 23, 2022
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Lombard, IL
Hi

Wondering what the experts here have to say about the inside finish for small turned boxes which might be used for food, eg things like salt and spices, etc?
Just leave it natural? Using; cherry, walnut and maple for these little gift boxes.

Note that the inset tops of these boxes will be small disks of splated maple, but that surface won’t be touching the inside of the lid.

Thank you,

‘Markl
 
I would use beeswax or a similar food safe oil finish such as Tried and True Original Wood Finish or Mahoney's Utility Finish. I put links to both down below. Just make sure to let it cure before letting food touch the surface.


 
NEVER use a solvent based finish inside a tight container. It will out gas for years and actually put a flavor in salt of spices. I leave them raw wood, but if you must put on a finish, water based finish or shellac would be my choices.
 
Mark, I would say that, for dry spices etc. in a box made of those woods, there is no need for any finish. If you want something for appearance, walnut oil or shellac will fit the purpose, and both are easy finishes to work with.
 
Wondering what the experts here have to say about the inside finish for small turned boxes which might be used for food, eg things like salt and spices, etc?

Hey Mark.
If the inside is smooth I like to use shellac. Shellac is safe around food.

I usually don't go for gloss, but I like the looks of it when I make lidded boxes that are sort of "egg shaped" inside.
1765667932082.jpeg 1765668050599.jpeg

JKJ
 
Burnished wax. Both carnauba and beeswax are used on food. I never met a M&M I didn’t like and they are coated with carnauba wax. The box will be ready for immediate use and won’t impart any off flavors.u
 
I agree- non-solvent finishes.

I'd leave the inside naked, and any of the Tried and True versions, or shellac, on the outside only. If you have pure tung oil on hand, that would work great on the outside, too.

I think I'd stick with one or two very light coats of oil, no surface flooding. T&T directions instruct "VERY LIGHT COATS" (yeah, capitalized and everything). I'd treat tung oil the same way.

I made a thin cherry bowl one time that had the oil pass through from one surface to the other as I applied it, showing speckled oily spots on the side I hadn't yet finished. I'll assume your containers will be fairly thin and light, so yes, very light coats.
 
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