Turning light and dark wood

[Charlie Kirk]

I have turned segmented bowls and segmented pens using light and dark woods for contrast. My problem is the sanding dust from the darker colored wood embeds in the grain of the lighter colored wood and makes it look dirty. How do I either prevent the sanding dust from embedding in the lighter colored wood or remove the dust? I would like to combine yellow heart with walnut or another dark brown wood (University of Wyoming colors - go Josh Allen) in pens or other small turnings. Have others encountered this issue? How have they resolved it? I have recently finished a segmented bowl that had two rings of purple heart and figured maple that did not have the issue - the grain of the maple was tight enough to prevent the darker wood dust from embedding.

Thanks in advance for replies.

 

[Russ Braun]

Get your best finish with your tools, NRS final cuts and minimize sanding. Use compressed air to blow your dust out of your differing woods; this should help alot. Not being an expert at sanding, there are differing schools of thought as to what grit you sand to. I’ve heard flat work people discuss stopping at 320 grit, any finer grits than that is done on the finish coats. Many flat work people scrape their finishes. This might be a whole different topic.

 

[Odie]

There is a product made specifically for this. Tack cloth.

I have some, but seldom have a need for it.

Beltex Tack Cloth - 12 Pack

For the best possible finish, you must first remove all traces of sanding dust from the surface. Beltex® Tack Cloths will do the job, picking up every bit of dust from your project and giving you a clean surface that’s ready to finish. Tack Cloths are long-lasting, combustion proof, nondrying...

www.woodcraft.com

As with @Russ Braun .....I normally use a good blast of compressed air...

-----odie-----

 

[Mark Jundanian]

I have not faced or solved this problem. Piggybacking on what Russ and Odie said and thinking out loud. Russ makes a good suggestion about limiting the sanding of the raw wood to p320 or even p220, particularly if this is sort of production work. The between grits I would try cleaning up in the following order (and maybe additive): compressed air + tack cloth + blue tape (trouble spots) + wipe with mineral spirits.
Just some thoughts.

 

[Bernie Hrytzak]

I use sanding sealer (super blonde shellac) before sanding to seal the pores in wood and after sanding blow out the sanding debris. You may have to use the sealer again as you go up the grits. The worst for me are maple and paduak.

 

[Karl Loeblein]

Consider using a wicking grade CA glue like Pafix 3408 before sanding. This will absorb into the wood to seal the pores. Search here or watch some YouTube videos by Marl Sillay. Also makes a good base for applying a thicker CA finish on pens.

 

[Richard Coers]

Plus 1 with Bernie. I've never been able to get a tack cloth to remove dust from open pore woods.

 

[john lucas]

Use sanding sealer before each grit. Apply the sealer. Sand. Then blow out all the dust. Seal. Sand with the next grit. Continue through the grits.