Well, if you know me, you know I prefer sloppy wet wood, and the more it warps, the more I like it. So, yesterday, I cut up a nice blank of big leaf maple, which I really don't like to turn because it seems to never cut cleanly, no matter what I do. Well, the cleanest surfaces I could get on it was with a NRS. Now, I do use a NRS across the bottom of a bowl frequently since the grain is fairly straight so there is minimal uphill/downhill. I NEVER go up the sides. I tried shear scraping with mixed results. My gouge skills are okay, but not excellent. I did try a NRS and it seemed to leave the best surface. This is puzzling to me. Now, I do follow Tomislav, and like his methods, and he pretty much always turns dry wood, and his finish cut, most of the time is with a 50 degree scraper. I did ask him once if there was much of a difference when turning wet wood and he replied, not much. I am starting to wonder. With the fresh green wood I turn, with the exception of madrone, I won't use any kind of scraper because it leaves a lot of tear out in the transition and up the sides of the bowl. I do have 5 more of them to turn, and will experiment some more. Still, I do wonder if there is a lot more to green/dry wood than I expected.
Side note, In sanding the big leaf maple, I found the 80 grit cubitron discs to be VERY aggressive, and ended up starting with 120 grit, then 220, then 400. I think the solid surface 80 grit cubitron cuts more like 60 grit. Still, I got 4 bowls sanded in the time it normally takes me to sand 2.
robo hippy
Side note, In sanding the big leaf maple, I found the 80 grit cubitron discs to be VERY aggressive, and ended up starting with 120 grit, then 220, then 400. I think the solid surface 80 grit cubitron cuts more like 60 grit. Still, I got 4 bowls sanded in the time it normally takes me to sand 2.
robo hippy