Tyler Lyght

[Tyler Lyght]

Howdy Folks,
My name is Tyler and I am more or less brand new to turning. I'm an Air Force veteran and was able to snag a job with the Corps of Engineers in my hometown after I separated. I'm in a somewhat remote part of NW Montana and there aren't many clubs near me. In fact, the closest is 110 miles away. I got ahold of them and they don't meet in the middle of summer, so my first meeting will be toward the end of next month. I do intend to join AAW proper, just haven't done so quite yet.

I've always been interested in turning, but have never been able to afford the cost of entry. Now that I can, moments from buying a Harvey T-40, my brother gifted me a Jet 1236 out of the blue. The person he bought it from turned bowls on it and it came with a 4 jaw chuck with multiple inserts, an 8 piece set of Record Power Ltd. chisels (not sure where they lie on the quality scale), a mess of screws and other hardware, and an unintelligible mess of equipment that I'm told is a duplicator. It's not in the best shape, for example the handle that you turn to extend the tailstock spindle looks like it was attacked by a hungry dog - but the critical bits seem to be operational. My primary interest is bowls and hollow forms, but I'm open to all types of turning at the moment.

I've read through a good amount of the forums over the last few weeks. I took a lot of folks' advice and pulled the trigger on a sharpening system (low speed grinder, Wolverine jig system (Verigrind I not II), and CBN wheels), which should arrive early next week. I've also been watching Youtube videos including a bunch of videos by Turnawoodbowl. His classes on his website are intriguing, but they're well on the expensive side. Anyone have insight if they're worth the cost - Sharpening (or shaping gouges, can't remember off the top of my head) is about $80 and Tree to Bowl is about $100.

Speaking of which, my intent at the moment is to use found wood for the bulk of my media. I remember someone mentioned there aren't a lot of native trees in the Rockies that are great for turning, but I figure worst case scenario they're good enough for learning. Plus, it gives my wife and myself more to do when we take rides in the woods. I have a 20" EGO chainsaw I look forward to using toward turning. A good bandsaw is a ways into the future.

As a veteran I'm no stranger to PPE. I have a P100 respirator and safety glasses. I'm looking for a decent face shield, but there aren't any locally that look like they are at all comfortable. I tend to prefer to see this sort of thing in person before buying it because I'm self-aware enough to know if safety equipment isn't comfortable I won't use it. Does anyone have insight into a decent comfortable face shield? I also have a dust collection system, but I need to build a pipe system to route it to my woodworking tools. At the moment I'm using a dryer vent hose... it works, if not ideally. I also bought supplementary lighting to make sure there's enough light. My shop has enough light to play with dimensional lumber, but not enough for my comfort for turning.

I appreciate being accepted onto the forums and I look forward to getting to know you folks as I explore this new hobby.

Thank you,
Tyler

 

[Mark Hepburn]

Howdy Folks,
My name is Tyler and I am more or less brand new to turning. I'm an Air Force veteran and was able to snag a job with the Corps of Engineers in my hometown after I separated. I'm in a somewhat remote part of NW Montana and there aren't many clubs near me. In fact, the closest is 110 miles away. I got ahold of them and they don't meet in the middle of summer, so my first meeting will be toward the end of next month. I do intend to join AAW proper, just haven't done so quite yet.

I've always been interested in turning, but have never been able to afford the cost of entry. Now that I can, moments from buying a Harvey T-40, my brother gifted me a Jet 1236 out of the blue. The person he bought it from turned bowls on it and it came with a 4 jaw chuck with multiple inserts, an 8 piece set of Record Power Ltd. chisels (not sure where they lie on the quality scale), a mess of screws and other hardware, and an unintelligible mess of equipment that I'm told is a duplicator. It's not in the best shape, for example the handle that you turn to extend the tailstock spindle looks like it was attacked by a hungry dog - but the critical bits seem to be operational. My primary interest is bowls and hollow forms, but I'm open to all types of turning at the moment.

I've read through a good amount of the forums over the last few weeks. I took a lot of folks' advice and pulled the trigger on a sharpening system (low speed grinder, Wolverine jig system (Verigrind I not II), and CBN wheels), which should arrive early next week. I've also been watching Youtube videos including a bunch of videos by Turnawoodbowl. His classes on his website are intriguing, but they're well on the expensive side. Anyone have insight if they're worth the cost - Sharpening (or shaping gouges, can't remember off the top of my head) is about $80 and Tree to Bowl is about $100.

Speaking of which, my intent at the moment is to use found wood for the bulk of my media. I remember someone mentioned there aren't a lot of native trees in the Rockies that are great for turning, but I figure worst case scenario they're good enough for learning. Plus, it gives my wife and myself more to do when we take rides in the woods. I have a 20" EGO chainsaw I look forward to using toward turning. A good bandsaw is a ways into the future.

As a veteran I'm no stranger to PPE. I have a P100 respirator and safety glasses. I'm looking for a decent face shield, but there aren't any locally that look like they are at all comfortable. I tend to prefer to see this sort of thing in person before buying it because I'm self-aware enough to know if safety equipment isn't comfortable I won't use it. Does anyone have insight into a decent comfortable face shield? I also have a dust collection system, but I need to build a pipe system to route it to my woodworking tools. At the moment I'm using a dryer vent hose... it works, if not ideally. I also bought supplementary lighting to make sure there's enough light. My shop has enough light to play with dimensional lumber, but not enough for my comfort for turning.

I appreciate being accepted onto the forums and I look forward to getting to know you folks as I explore this new hobby.

Thank you,
Tyler

Welcome to the forum Tyler.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Welcome aboard, Tyler. Most woodturners use "found" wood. If you join a club, you may sometimes find that a club member has a surplus of wood that they are willing to share. I wouldn't pay for lessons. Most clubs have mentors who are willing to teach beginners for free.

 

[John K Jordan]

...
Speaking of which, my intent at the moment is to use found wood for the bulk of my media. I remember someone mentioned there aren't a lot of native trees in the Rockies that are great for turning, but I figure worst case scenario they're good enough for learning. Plus, it gives my wife and myself more to do when we take rides in the woods. I have a 20" EGO chainsaw I look forward to using toward turning. A good bandsaw is a ways into the future.
...I also have a dust collection system, but I need to build a pipe system to route it to my woodworking tools. At the moment I'm using a dryer vent hose... it works, if not ideally. I also bought supplementary lighting to make sure there's enough light. My shop has enough light to play with dimensional lumber, but not enough for my comfort for turning.

Hello Tyler,

As for wood, many people plant non-native hardwood trees on their property and some have to be removed at times. You might contact a tree service company or two. I've had them call me when took down trees with useful wood. I'd bring a trailer. (Hauling the wood away saves them the effort of disposal.) If they are working with a bucket truck they can often use it as a crane and load big chunks on a truck or trailer. I've hauled a huge variety of species here, some uncommon to our local area.

You can also even parbuckle large logs on a suitable trailer - wrap a chain/rope/cable/strap enough times around the log, set up ramps on side of a trailer, and pull the chain by chain to roll the log up the ramps. I use I-beams for ramps and pulled by hand, 4-wheeler, or vehicle depending on the size/diameter of the log. If not far I've hauled equipment to the site, loaded the logs, hauled them to my place, then returned for the equipment. (Of course, this requires having equipment on hand or knowing someone who does.) If cutting wood into smaller pieces to load by hand it's best to immediately apply sealant such as anchorseal to the endgrain after each chainsaw cut.

I used 6" PVC drain pipe for all of my dust collector duct runs with flex line at the ends if needed. I installed a 5hp cyclone and ran the ducts through the trusses above the ceiling. At the machines I use a combination of pipe, rigid fittings, and flex as appropriate. For example at the bandsaw I split the 6" into three 4" ducts - works extremely well. (I position the black flex hose on the table with a magnet for certain types of cuts. Unlike most dryer vent hose, ome of these flex hoses made for woodworkingare designed to stay in position)


Many people use the Bionic face shields:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VY3ACE

I keep several in the shop for myself and students/visitors. They are inexpensive, lightweight, comfortable, and provide reasonable protection.
A 3M half/face respirator with the pink P100 filters will fit under the face shield if making dust.
If turning very large and dangerous wood capable of inflecting serious injury there are other options.
Don't forget safety glasses for smaller things.

Girl wearing a Bionic face shield. BTW, this friend visiting form Italy made the ring keeper on the far right after one skew and spindle-turning lesson - her first project.
(Various turning experts agree - learning spindle turning first can teach the fine tool control that will let you turn anything. I start each student with the skew chisel even if they've never seen a lathe before (as with this friend.) From skew, I go to spindle gouge, to spindle roughing gouge.



I've had various bandsaws, quite happy with the 18" Rikon. Any bandsaw with at least a 12" cut will allow a lot of log section processing. I almost always turn dry wood so I've processed a lot of logs into many 100s of blanks and dried them for turning. If at all interested, I made a video on this for a club pandemic era zoom meeting. The video is long but parts might be useful.

View: https://youtu.be/4Rbdas-jtD0


There are good reasons to turn things from dry wood. The video touches on this.

Joining and attending a club can be a huge benefit. Meeting the people is a huge benefit - asking questions, trading wood, watching demos, sharing resources, connecting with teachers and mentors. And you may well find experienced turners who just happen to live out your way!

JKJ

 

[Tyler Lyght]

Hello Tyler,

As for wood, many people plant non-native hardwood trees on their property and some have to be removed at times. You might contact a tree service company or two. I've had them call me when took down trees with useful wood. I'd bring a trailer. (Hauling the wood away saves them the effort of disposal.) If they are working with a bucket truck they can often use it as a crane and load big chunks on a truck or trailer. I've hauled a huge variety of species here, some uncommon to our local area.

You can also even parbuckle large logs on a suitable trailer - wrap a chain/rope/cable/strap enough times around the log, set up ramps on side of a trailer, and pull the chain by chain to roll the log up the ramps. I use I-beams for ramps and pulled by hand, 4-wheeler, or vehicle depending on the size/diameter of the log. If not far I've hauled equipment to the site, loaded the logs, hauled them to my place, then returned for the equipment. (Of course, this requires having equipment on hand or knowing someone who does.) If cutting wood into smaller pieces to load by hand it's best to immediately apply sealant such as anchorseal to the endgrain after each chainsaw cut.

I used 6" PVC drain pipe for all of my dust collector duct runs with flex line at the ends if needed. I installed a 5hp cyclone and ran the ducts through the trusses above the ceiling. At the machines I use a combination of pipe, rigid fittings, and flex as appropriate. For example at the bandsaw I split the 6" into three 4" ducts - works extremely well. (I position the black flex hose on the table with a magnet for certain types of cuts. Unlike most dryer vent hose, ome of these flex hoses made for woodworkingare designed to stay in position)
View attachment 78597 View attachment 78598

Many people use the Bionic face shields:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VY3ACE

I keep several in the shop for myself and students/visitors. They are inexpensive, lightweight, comfortable, and provide reasonable protection.
A 3M half/face respirator with the pink P100 filters will fit under the face shield if making dust.
If turning very large and dangerous wood capable of inflecting serious injury there are other options.
Don't forget safety glasses for smaller things.

Girl wearing a Bionic face shield. BTW, this friend visiting form Italy made the ring keeper on the far right after one skew and spindle-turning lesson - her first project.
(Various turning experts agree - learning spindle turning first can teach the fine tool control that will let you turn anything. I start each student with the skew chisel even if they've never seen a lathe before (as with this friend.) From skew, I go to spindle gouge, to spindle roughing gouge.

View attachment 78596 View attachment 78600

I've had various bandsaws, quite happy with the 18" Rikon. Any bandsaw with at least a 12" cut will allow a lot of log section processing. I almost always turn dry wood so I've processed a lot of logs into many 100s of blanks and dried them for turning. If at all interested, I made a video on this for a club pandemic era zoom meeting. The video is long but parts might be useful.

View: https://youtu.be/4Rbdas-jtD0


There are good reasons to turn things from dry wood. The video touches on this.

Joining and attending a club can be a huge benefit. Meeting the people is a huge benefit - asking questions, trading wood, watching demos, sharing resources, connecting with teachers and mentors. And you may well find experienced turners who just happen to live out your way!

JKJ

Lot of great advice here, thank you. I had been considering PVC for a dust collector manifold, but hadn't gotten around to it. In the last two days since I set up my lathe I've produced more sawdust than with my dimensional work in the last few months. I think turning is going to be the reason I finish my setup.

I hadn't considered looking at tree removal companies. I don't know that there are many in my area (town only has about 5k people) but it can't hurt. We're a logging town, so just getting word out that I'm looking for hardwood might be all I need to do. I know a couple people with small lumber mills and I bet even offcuts would be useful there. My brother had a few dozen trees cut down from his property two years ago and they're just sitting in a pile gathering mushrooms. He said I can grab as much as I can use. Not hardwood but it's a free, easy, and abundant source of practice wood.

Thank you for the tip on the bionic face shield. I will likely get one for me and one for my wife. Thank you also for the ring keeper idea. It's neat looking and immediately useful. I think I'll try making a few a soon as I can get my gouges sharpened up - equipment should come in over the next couple days.

 

[John K Jordan]

... I know a couple people with small lumber mills and I bet even offcuts would be useful there. ,,,
...Thank you also for the ring keeper idea. It's neat looking and immediately useful. I think I'll try making a few a soon as I can get my gouges sharpened up - equipment should come in over the next couple days.

The ring keepers are highly desired; I've made dozens. My lovely bride keeps one at the kitchen sink and one by her makeup/jewelry station.

Those are a couple of interpretations of a Bob Rosand idea. I like to make them with the flare at the bottom; Bob generally hand a more rounded base. Funny thing, I just now asked Sir Google about 'Bob Rosand ringkeeper' and the first photo that came was on Pinterest, my photo of two that I made, posted by Vicki H. ??



I made the one from Olive and blue acrylic for a teen girl named Olivia who helped for a long time in my kindergarten SS class.
She told me later it was the best present she'd ever gotten in her life! (was a little sad... did she rarely get presents?)
The one on the left is of Dogwood from the farm and Bloodwood - I thought the colors worked together.

The only real requirement for these is the top and flame are small enough diameter for a ring to fit over. I make them about 1/2" dia. I've made a bunch of these - a quick, simple spindle project with almost unlimited design opportunity.



A private sawmill might indeed be a great place to check for wood. There are a bunch around here - I have one myself behind the barn. I mostly use it for boards for around the farm but have cut many thick slabs to air dry for turning blanks. I will cut green bowl blanks for people if they whine and sob and twist my arm. I make the chunks with two flats, easy to mount and turn and a LOT easier than chainsawing.



One sawmill I know is (or at least used to be) a source of free burls. When he got a burlled tree he threw the burl in the corner, said people, wood carvers or something, would come get them.

One woman stopped at my farm after a turning class at John C Campbell and left with her station wagon practically dragging the ground, loaded down with slabs of walnut, cherry, etc., headed back to Arizona or Nevada (can't remember) where it was hard to find such wood. The Southeast is hardwood heaven.

Oh, as for the PVC: I bought all the fittings from the local hardware store but I found a piping supplier who had a big pile of 6" PVC out back that had some cracks or damage. I got much of what I needed from that pile for no cost.

JKJ

 

[Tyler Lyght]

The ring keepers are highly desired; I've made dozens. My lovely bride keeps one at the kitchen sink and one by her makeup/jewelry station.

Those are a couple of interpretations of a Bob Rosand idea. I like to make them with the flare at the bottom; Bob generally hand a more rounded base. Funny thing, I just now asked Sir Google about 'Bob Rosand ringkeeper' and the first photo that came was on Pinterest, my photo of two that I made, posted by Vicki H. ??

View attachment 78604

I made the one from Olive and blue acrylic for a teen girl named Olivia who helped for a long time in my kindergarten SS class.
She told me later it was the best present she'd ever gotten in her life! (was a little sad... did she rarely get presents?)
The one on the left is of Dogwood from the farm and Bloodwood - I thought the colors worked together.

The only real requirement for these is the top and flame are small enough diameter for a ring to fit over. I make them about 1/2" dia. I've made a bunch of these - a quick, simple spindle project with almost unlimited design opportunity.

View attachment 78605

A private sawmill might indeed be a great place to check for wood. There are a bunch around here - I have one myself behind the barn. I mostly use it for boards for around the farm but have cut many thick slabs to air dry for turning blanks. I will cut green bowl blanks for people if they whine and sob and twist my arm. I make the chunks with two flats, easy to mount and turn and a LOT easier than chainsawing.

View attachment 78607 View attachment 78608

One sawmill I know is (or at least used to be) a source of free burls. When he got a burlled tree he threw the burl in the corner, said people, wood carvers or something, would come get them.

One woman stopped at my farm after a turning class at John C Campbell and left with her station wagon practically dragging the ground, loaded down with slabs of walnut, cherry, etc., headed back to Arizona or Nevada (can't remember) where it was hard to find such wood. The Southeast is hardwood heaven.

Oh, as for the PVC: I bought all the fittings from the local hardware store but I found a piping supplier who had a big pile of 6" PVC out back that had some cracks or damage. I got much of what I needed from that pile for no cost.

JKJ

It's amazing the random things you learn by just talking with folks. Never would have thought of burls from sawmills. And that story about Olivia. That's the sort of thing that sticks with you. I hope I find a few moments to share the joy like that. Waiting for parts - I'm chomping at the bit like I haven't done in quite some time. My wife has even commented on it. She watched me fail a bowl last night and we both still had a lot of fun learning.

 

[John K Jordan]

My wife has even commented on it. She watched me fail a bowl last night and we both still had a lot of fun learning.

Well THAT'S something you'll probably never hear from me. I make a lot of things for her but I don't think she's been in the shop since I built it maybe 10 years ago. One time she did walk down to the barn (near the shop) and I said "Hey, who are you? What are you doing here?"

But she tolerates and has even supports my wide variety of obsessions over the last 55 years, loves it when I make things for her, for gifts she can give to friends and family, and especially things for the kitchen (she's an amazing chef; we eat like royalty!) Recently when mentioning utility things that can be made form wood, I put together a couple of composite pics of mostly functional things from my shop. (grouping photos gets around the 4-photo limit on the forum!)


Some she requested, some I thought we could use, some we've used every day for decades, some made just for others on request or as surprises.

A few have a good stories! If curious, remind me sometime to tell you the surprising story that goes with the big platter near the top center of the second composite image...

JKJ

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Howdy Folks,
My name is Tyler and I am more or less brand new to turning. I'm an Air Force veteran and was able to snag a job with the Corps of Engineers in my hometown after I separated. I'm in a somewhat remote part of NW Montana and there aren't many clubs near me. In fact, the closest is 110 miles away. I got ahold of them and they don't meet in the middle of summer, so my first meeting will be toward the end of next month. I do intend to join AAW proper, just haven't done so quite yet.

I've always been interested in turning, but have never been able to afford the cost of entry. Now that I can, moments from buying a Harvey T-40, my brother gifted me a Jet 1236 out of the blue. The person he bought it from turned bowls on it and it came with a 4 jaw chuck with multiple inserts, an 8 piece set of Record Power Ltd. chisels (not sure where they lie on the quality scale), a mess of screws and other hardware, and an unintelligible mess of equipment that I'm told is a duplicator. It's not in the best shape, for example the handle that you turn to extend the tailstock spindle looks like it was attacked by a hungry dog - but the critical bits seem to be operational. My primary interest is bowls and hollow forms, but I'm open to all types of turning at the moment.

I've read through a good amount of the forums over the last few weeks. I took a lot of folks' advice and pulled the trigger on a sharpening system (low speed grinder, Wolverine jig system (Verigrind I not II), and CBN wheels), which should arrive early next week. I've also been watching Youtube videos including a bunch of videos by Turnawoodbowl. His classes on his website are intriguing, but they're well on the expensive side. Anyone have insight if they're worth the cost - Sharpening (or shaping gouges, can't remember off the top of my head) is about $80 and Tree to Bowl is about $100.

Speaking of which, my intent at the moment is to use found wood for the bulk of my media. I remember someone mentioned there aren't a lot of native trees in the Rockies that are great for turning, but I figure worst case scenario they're good enough for learning. Plus, it gives my wife and myself more to do when we take rides in the woods. I have a 20" EGO chainsaw I look forward to using toward turning. A good bandsaw is a ways into the future.

As a veteran I'm no stranger to PPE. I have a P100 respirator and safety glasses. I'm looking for a decent face shield, but there aren't any locally that look like they are at all comfortable. I tend to prefer to see this sort of thing in person before buying it because I'm self-aware enough to know if safety equipment isn't comfortable I won't use it. Does anyone have insight into a decent comfortable face shield? I also have a dust collection system, but I need to build a pipe system to route it to my woodworking tools. At the moment I'm using a dryer vent hose... it works, if not ideally. I also bought supplementary lighting to make sure there's enough light. My shop has enough light to play with dimensional lumber, but not enough for my comfort for turning.

I appreciate being accepted onto the forums and I look forward to getting to know you folks as I explore this new hobby.

Thank you,
Tyler

You have done most of what I would suggest as a new turner. As for Kent Weakley's paid courses, I bought the sharpening course and Bowl Gouge mastery. I haven't felt the need to buy the other two courses, as most of that is going to be covered in his free videos. I felt both courses I bought were worth the money. If you are only buying one course, I would get the sharpening course.

I don't use my face shield (gasp). It will fog up in seconds here (you won't have that problem where you are). I want to buy a Trend, 3M, etc. positive flow system, but I can't justify it. When sanding, I always use a mask.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Lot of great advice here, thank you. I had been considering PVC for a dust collector manifold, but hadn't gotten around to it. In the last two days since I set up my lathe I've produced more sawdust than with my dimensional work in the last few months. I think turning is going to be the reason I finish my setup.

I hadn't considered looking at tree removal companies. I don't know that there are many in my area (town only has about 5k people) but it can't hurt. We're a logging town, so just getting word out that I'm looking for hardwood might be all I need to do. I know a couple people with small lumber mills and I bet even offcuts would be useful there. My brother had a few dozen trees cut down from his property two years ago and they're just sitting in a pile gathering mushrooms. He said I can grab as much as I can use. Not hardwood but it's a free, easy, and abundant source of practice wood.

Thank you for the tip on the bionic face shield. I will likely get one for me and one for my wife. Thank you also for the ring keeper idea. It's neat looking and immediately useful. I think I'll try making a few a soon as I can get my gouges sharpened up - equipment should come in over the next couple days.

Others with more experience can chime in, but I see little value in dust extraction at the lathe. That is probably because I turn a lot of green wood.

 

[Tyler Lyght]

Others with more experience can chime in, but I see little value in dust extraction at the lathe. That is probably because I turn a lot of green wood.

Appreciate the reply. I figure I'll use found wood mostly, but a good deal of that can be found a few years after it fell with relatively little cracking. I probably wouldn't call it green as what I've used so far doesn't have especially wet sawdust. It does tend to clump slightly but comes off pretty clean with a good blast of the air compressor.

 

[Mark Hepburn]

Howdy Folks,
My name is Tyler and I am more or less brand new to turning. I'm an Air Force veteran...

Tyler, I meant to say (and forgot) Thank You for your service to our country. Lots of us veterans on the forum I think you'll find. I was in the navy so long ago that my ship (USS JFK) is mothballed.

 

[John K Jordan]

I don't use my face shield (gasp). It will fog up in seconds here (you won't have that problem where you are). I want to buy a Trend, 3M, etc. positive flow system, but I can't justify it. When sanding, I always use a mask.

Rats. I had a Trend (two batteries) I didn't use and practically gave it away.

Have you tried the good 3M (7500 series) half-mask respirators under the face shield. When using those I don't get any fogging. They direct the breath down and away from the shield.

Others with more experience can chime in, but I see little value in dust extraction at the lathe. That is probably because I turn a lot of green wood.

As often the case, I think much may depend on what one does at the lathe and how. AND the type/power of the DC, duct and pickup configurations.

I personally would hate to be without strong dust extraction at the lathe (and bandsaw and drum sander, etc).
I've watched the dust come off a long spindle and travel horizontally about two feet towards the headstock to get sucked up by the intake nozzle. It really shines at the bandsaw - most of what's in my bin comes from the bandsaw (I have three pickups at the bandsaw). And with the sanders - I occasionally test with an air quality particulate monitor and am convinced the DC is helping a lot to minimize fine dust in the air.

I mostly turn dry wood. Rarely turn big bowls.

Also, I never sand with coarse rotating disks on a close-quarters drill. The dust pickup might not be too good for that since it can throw clouds all around. I have developed and evolved what, for me, I consider are much better ways to smooth.

Of course, the TYPE and power of the dust collector makes a huge difference. Mine is a 5hp ClearVue cyclone which will extract your cat if it were to get too close. ClearVue used to have a video that showed a 30' steel measuring tape being lifted into a vertical duct and carried and dumped into the bin. When building the shop I designed part of the shop around the dust collection.

I also have a vacuum hose connected to one blast gate for the times I do a little cleanup around the lathe and bandsaw. Usually once ever 2 or 3 years if I feel like it...

JKJ

 

[Tyler Lyght]

I always feel awkward having someone thank me for serving, expecially another veteran, but thank you for the welcome and thank you for your service =P

 

[Tyler Lyght]

Rats. I had a Trend (two batteries) I didn't use and practically gave it away.

Have you tried the good 3M (7500 series) half-mask respirators under the face shield. When using those I don't get any fogging. They direct the breath down and away from the shield.



As often the case, I think much may depend on what one does at the lathe and how. AND the type/power of the DC, duct and pickup configurations.

I personally would hate to be without strong dust extraction at the lathe (and bandsaw and drum sander, etc).
I've watched the dust come off a long spindle and travel horizontally about two feet towards the headstock to get sucked up by the intake nozzle. It really shines at the bandsaw - most of what's in my bin comes from the bandsaw (I have three pickups at the bandsaw). And with the sanders - I occasionally test with an air quality particulate monitor and am convinced the DC is helping a lot to minimize fine dust in the air.

I mostly turn dry wood. Rarely turn big bowls.

Also, I never sand with coarse rotating disks on a close-quarters drill. The dust pickup might not be too good for that since it can throw clouds all around. I have developed and evolved what, for me, I consider are much better ways to smooth.

Of course, the TYPE and power of the dust collector makes a huge difference. Mine is a 5hp ClearVue cyclone which will extract your cat if it were to get too close. ClearVue used to have a video that showed a 30' steel measuring tape being lifted into a vertical duct and carried and dumped into the bin. When building the shop I designed part of the shop around the dust collection.

I also have a vacuum hose connected to one blast gate for the times I do a little cleanup around the lathe and bandsaw. Usually once ever 2 or 3 years if I feel like it...

JKJ

I didn't come across that facemask during my brief search. I'll throw it on my watchlist in case I'm unsatisfied with my current mask. Like Kent, I just can't justify a PAPR at the moment. I'll have to see how I fell in the long run with the gear I have. I'm not against it, but $800 can buy a lot of lathe gear.

My dust collector is only a 2 horse, but it makes cleanup a whole lot easier at least. No idea how much air it will move when I get my ducting up.

 

[John K Jordan]

I always feel awkward having someone thank me for serving, expecially another veteran, but thank you for the welcome and thank you for your service =P

Well you have my thanks too, awkward or not! I've never been in any branch of the military but where would be without it.

I did make a huge, unintentional mistake once that resulted in a VERY awkward moment.
A good friend of mine served in the Coast Guard for decades. He gave me one of his old, somewhat worn USMC hats. I love that hat and wore it a lot around the farm and occasionally when driving.

One day on a long trip I stopped and ordered something at a food place. I forgot to leave the hat in the car.
The manager brought the food to me himself, wouldn't take any money, and thanked me for my service.
Ack. I almost fainted. Certainly didn't know what to say. I learned from that.
I put the money in the tip jar, left, and never wore it again outside my property....

JKJ

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Rats. I had a Trend (two batteries) I didn't use and practically gave it away.

Have you tried the good 3M (7500 series) half-mask respirators under the face shield. When using those I don't get any fogging. They direct the breath down and away from the shield.



As often the case, I think much may depend on what one does at the lathe and how. AND the type/power of the DC, duct and pickup configurations.

I personally would hate to be without strong dust extraction at the lathe (and bandsaw and drum sander, etc).
I've watched the dust come off a long spindle and travel horizontally about two feet towards the headstock to get sucked up by the intake nozzle. It really shines at the bandsaw - most of what's in my bin comes from the bandsaw (I have three pickups at the bandsaw). And with the sanders - I occasionally test with an air quality particulate monitor and am convinced the DC is helping a lot to minimize fine dust in the air.

I mostly turn dry wood. Rarely turn big bowls.

Also, I never sand with coarse rotating disks on a close-quarters drill. The dust pickup might not be too good for that since it can throw clouds all around. I have developed and evolved what, for me, I consider are much better ways to smooth.

Of course, the TYPE and power of the dust collector makes a huge difference. Mine is a 5hp ClearVue cyclone which will extract your cat if it were to get too close. ClearVue used to have a video that showed a 30' steel measuring tape being lifted into a vertical duct and carried and dumped into the bin. When building the shop I designed part of the shop around the dust collection.

I also have a vacuum hose connected to one blast gate for the times I do a little cleanup around the lathe and bandsaw. Usually once ever 2 or 3 years if I feel like it...

JKJ

I'll keep looking for a deal on positive airflow headsets.

Maybe I'll try a hood on the lathe again. My one attempt was pretty weak. I have a cheapish Wen dust collector so that's probably part of it.