Useful shop gadgets.....shop, and "evolving shop" photos......

[hockenbery]

No, not at all.....you must apply a little "vision" to the post, Al....... The photos above are specific to the technique, and the entire area is covered only to more clearly understand the technique. Since that is the top, or the rim of the bowl, the usual application would be to only use the pencil for outermost 1", or so. When roughing a foot, the same applies for only that area where the foot will be......it is a very "target specific" technique. ko

Kelly,

I don't understand your comment.

Do you put dark pencil/ prisma color on a surface you do not turn or sand away?

 

[Owen Lowe]

The dark pencil is great if you are removing the whole surface layer.
Airbrushing the surface works too I sometimes use that as guide in removing some surface layers.
Chalk is great for marking a small bump inside a bowl. If there is any chalk left it will blow of with compressed air.
Water color pencil is great for making lines to carve etc. if I miss the line a bit the carving will still look good once I use a damp paper towel to erase the line.

Speaking of using pencils on turnings:
When I will be pyro or carving a piece and sketch the design on the surface, I’ve found that a #2 pencil is too hard and will leave small indentations in the wood if I need to redraw a line or miss the mark in pyro/carving. A 2B or 3B is much softer and leaves a darker line to follow. It erases well or is easily removed with denatured alcohol.

The chalk is a really good idea — I’ll have to give that a try. (I’d assume any chalk remaining in the grain that is not blown out would be sanded away anyway.)

 

[Odie]

Kelly,

I don't understand your comment.

Do you put dark pencil/ prisma color on a surface you do not turn or sand away?

Al.....The short answer is.....no. There is no need to apply the pencil where that surface doesn't need to be trued.....such as the interior surface of a bowl, or that which is outside of the foot of a bowl. It's simply an aid for completely truing up a surface (or portions thereof) while removing as little material as possible. I have edited my post #238 in an attempt to make things more understandable for you.....otherwise, bring it up in the main forum....I'll be happy to discuss it with you there.

Here is a movable tool holder made from magnets and a piece of PVC pipe. I made this up sometime in the past year, and it's really handy when that time comes when it fits the situation perfectly....... I have one other on-the-lathe tool holder (shown on the first pic) that is in constant use, but there are times when another tool holder that can be quickly mounted anywhere can be great to have.

ko

 

[Bill Boehme]

Speaking of using pencils on turnings:
When I will be pyro or carving a piece and sketch the design on the surface, I’ve found that a #2 pencil is too hard and will leave small indentations in the wood if I need to redraw a line or miss the mark in pyro/carving. A 2B or 3B is much softer and leaves a darker line to follow. It erases well or is easily removed with denatured alcohol.

The chalk is a really good idea — I’ll have to give that a try. (I’d assume any chalk remaining in the grain that is not blown out would be sanded away anyway.)

If I use a lead pencil (meaning graphite), I will use a mechanical pencil with a 0.5 or 0.3 mm lead and a softer lead as you stated. I prefer 2B if I can find it.

I prefer colored leads as they are easier to see and they don't smear like the graphite does.

 

[James Seyfried]

I agree with you Odle. You are right.

Janet, what is the purpose of the unrelated links you add to your replies with quotes?

 

[Bill Boehme]

Janet, what is the purpose of the unrelated links you add to your replies with quotes?

Thanks for the heads up, James. Unsolicited advertising in the body of a post is against forum rules.

 

[Owen Lowe]

The IKEA LED lights were mentioned a while back in this thread but I wanted to show how I use mine. This is not my own idea.

1 metric cap screw from Ace Hardware ($.75)
IKEA Jansjo worklamp ($10)
Harbor Freight indicator magnet (Item #5645; usually on sale at $13)
Purpleheart blocks from scrap

So, for less than $25 per light and about an hour to do a couple of these I have easily positioned work lights at the lathe or wherever there is a metal mounting surface. AND, on a lathe with rounded surfaces, like the head and tailstock on Oneways these magnetic blocks are just the ticket. The most difficult part is accurately drilling the spacing for the pair of mounting holes for the light. Think it through and use dial calipers to scribe the positions on the wood block.

 

[Odie]

Nice job of it Owen......thanks for contributing.

I have the exact same two components, but not done nearly as nicely as you did. I taped the IKEA lamp to the vertical post of the magnetic base, and it's now on top of my grinder. Makes a great lamp for observing gouges being ground, besides the obvious use on top of your headstock.

ko

 

[Owen Lowe]

Thanks, Odie.

I just looked at the pic of the assembled light and it appears to be levitating from the lathe… cool! (Trust me, it doesn’t really levitate.)

 

[Odie]

I have no trouble using gouges all the way down to where the flute grind gradually curves up......but, I've always had trouble using up all the available surface of scrapers. This is because at some point, the Wolverine platform interferes. For much of my scraper use, I use 1/2" square M2 Sorby scrapers, and I've recently made up a handy little alternative handle that allows me to use more of the steel. I'll probably use this handle for years, because I have a quite a few pieces of short 1/2" M2 square stock available that can be utilized.

The handle is simply a piece of PVC that has an "X" cut into the end, on my table saw. The scraper end piece is slipped into the end and tightened with a hose clamp that I've modified with a penny for quick on and off. The handle is wrapped with hockey tape to allow for a better grip.

The short piece of steel is easily maneuverable on the wolverine platform for re-newing the ground burr, and if a raised burr is required, the handle is re-installed for that purpose.

Making up an auxiliary handle will allow using a couple more inches of that very expensive steel.......

ko

 

[Odie]

Spindle extension

When I need it, this 6" spindle extension is golden! It is threaded for 1 1/4" x 8tpi, female on one end, and male on the other. The usual scenario, is those times when access to the area around the foot is needed.....most often for power sanding. Those who are not faceplate turners, probably won't find this as appealing as I do......

Unfortunately, this handy little item is no longer available. It was available about 25 years ago at CSUSA. If one were creative, and knew someone who had a metal lathe, it wouldn't be difficult to make........

ko

 

[hockenbery]

When I need it, this 6" spindle extension is golden! It is threaded for 1 1/4" x 8tpi, female on one end, and male on the other. The usual scenario, is those times when access to the area around the foot is needed.....most often for power sanding. Those who are not faceplate turners, probably won't find this as appealing as I do...... Unfortunately, this handy little item is no longer available. It was available about 25 years ago at CSUSA. If one were creative, and knew someone who had a metal lathe, it wouldn't be difficult to make........ ko

If you google spindle extender a lot of hits pop up
Packard has them in 3" lengths. This seems long enough of the access you describe. Two could be joined to gether.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=lathes-acc-spiext

Also Hartville, hold fast, and Best wood

 

[Bill Boehme]

Best Wood Tools has a three inch extension which also has a #2 Morse taper in addition to the threads which could be a handy feature.

 

[Odie]

If you google spindle extender a lot of hits pop up
Packard has them in 3" lengths. This seems long enough of the access you describe. Two could be joined to gether.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=lathes-acc-spiext

Also Hartville, hold fast, and Best wood

Best Wood Tools has a three inch extension which also has a #2 Morse taper in addition to the threads which could be a handy feature.

OK, thanks Bill and Al....... This will be useful information, just in case anyone would like to have one of these extensions. Yes, I think a 3" extension would be adequate for most applications. If more reach were needed, they could be stacked, as you indicated.

I should note that the extensions are not really intended for lathe tool work, but more useful for light duty applications, such as sanding and polishing.

ko

 

[Jim Chrisawn]

Tools on the go

I, like others, I'm sure have more than one lathe. It seemed every time I was at one lathe I needed a tool that was somewhere else. Now I admit it was kind of tempting to use this as a reason (not excuse) to buy extra tools, however reason prevailed (read here wife intervention) Another solution was to make the tool come to me. Tools on the go. Here is a work in evolutionary development. It is simple, inexpensive and let's me keep the normally needed tools at hand.

 

[Odie]

I, like others, I'm sure have more than one lathe. It seemed every time I was at one lathe I needed a tool that was somewhere else. Now I admit it was kind of tempting to use this as a reason (not excuse) to buy extra tools, however reason prevailed (read here wife intervention) Another solution was to make the tool come to me. Tools on the go. Here is a work in evolutionary development. It is simple, inexpensive and let's me keep the normally needed tools at hand.

Excellent, Jim.....thanks for contributing. That's one of the better organized rolling carts I've seen....... I'm sure a few others will be inspired to take your cue! I only have one lathe, but the concept of a rolling cart is very appealing, nonetheless......

Just the other day, after having some of my tool handles wrapped with hockey stick tape for the last year or so, I decided to do all of them! I originally bought the hockey tape to wrap some of my exercise and weight lifting equipment, and it worked so well there, that I experimented with using it on my lathe tools, as well as various other applications throughout the shop. It gives just a little more positive grip feel than bare wood and/or with grooves. Now I'm hooked on this. I'm mixing the colors up a bit, so that identification is easier.

Have you ever sharpened a tool and then changed your mind? If you'll notice, there are several tools with spring clips attached to them. I've been using this idea for a long time. The spring clips indicate a tool that hasn't been used, or barely used, since it was last sharpened......it's my reminder that I can choose this tool and go right to the lathe with it, skipping my usual sharpening procedure. I don't know if this is something anyone else can use, but it's been a very useful idea for my turning, that has withstood the test of time!

The first photo shows my most often used tools with the hockey tape. The second photo shows my lesser used tools with my stash of spring clips.

ko

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

mobile

Here is my contribution to mobile. Have 4 drawers on the front and larger storage at bottom. It is also a sharpening station and have since added buffer in the back.


Usually only use 2-3 tools on one project so they fit here when in use and then go to the wall rack.

 

[Jim Chrisawn]

Excellent, Jim.....thanks for contributing. That's one of the better organized rolling carts I've seen....... I'm sure a few others will be inspired to take your cue! I only have one lathe, but the concept of a rolling cart is very appealing, nonetheless......

Just the other day, after having some of my tool handles wrapped with hockey stick tape for the last year or so, I decided to do all of them! I originally bought the hockey tape to wrap some of my exercise and weight lifting equipment, and it worked so well there, that I experimented with using it on my lathe tools, as well as various other applications throughout the shop. It gives just a little more positive grip feel than bare wood and/or with grooves. Now I'm hooked on this. I'm mixing the colors up a bit, so that identification is easier.

Have you ever sharpened a tool and then changed your mind? If you'll notice, there are several tools with spring clips attached to them. I've been using this idea for a long time. The spring clips indicate a tool that hasn't been used, or barely used, since it was last sharpened......it's my reminder that I can choose this tool and go right to the lathe with it, skipping my usual sharpening procedure. I don't know if this is something anyone else can use, but it's been a very useful idea for my turning, that has withstood the test of time!

ko

Hockey tape and spring clips...
Great ideas! My son has a ton of hockey tape and lots of colors. I'm going to try that and the spring clips as well. Great, and thanks!

 

[Odie]

In accordance with the thread title, here's a couple "evolving shop" photos.....

1. Woodfast lathe
2. Buffing station


ko

 

[Odie]

Here's a couple more:

1. Delta 8" slow speed grinder
2. Work bench

If you've got some "evolving shop" photos.......bring it on!

ko

 

[chrisdaniels]

here's my "evolving shop" it's my porch, and it changes about every other week. Once I find a configuration I like, I find another reason to change it.


I have changed it again since that picture was taken, i'll have to post the new one this week.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Someone needs to pen a new book called square foot woodworking.
Every vertical and horizontal square foot of surface counts in a small shop area.

 

[Steve Worcester]

Someone needs to pen a new book called square foot woodworking.
Every vertical and horizontal square foot of surface counts in a small shop area.

Tinyshop, coming to the DIY network soon

 

[Bart Leetch]

Some woodworkers just have 2 sq,feet.

 

[Lance Mirrer]

Space saver.



Odie, I would like to show you a huge space saver for your saw top and benches. I made this up to put my tools in and keep them close.
It's basically a lazy Susan on growth hormones. The top turns free of the bottom. Both trays spin, so finding a tool is a snap. After putting your tools in in the order you like them, it becomes easy to remember where they are.
Details on how to make this are available...

Hi Syd,
Loved the lazy Susan tool holder. please post, or send, the details.

 

[Lance Mirrer]

Enjoyed the many suggestions and pics. Thanks Guys!!

 

[RichColvin]

One thing that leads to organization is a little phrase composed of three little words......"do it now"! Apply them, and your shop will eventually work better for you than you ever dreamed was possible

Odie, in our plants, we use a concept called 5s for this. Very similar. Makes things much easier in the long run.

Also, makes things much more repeatable!

 

[Odie]

Odie, in our plants, we use a concept called 5s for this. Very similar. Makes things much easier in the long run.

Also, makes things much more repeatable!

Sounds like a good concept, Rich.......but, tell me......what does that "5s" stand for? Is it five s's, or the plural of five?

Anything that makes you get some round tuits, is a good thing!

ko

 

[Bill Boehme]

I didn't know the answer either, but it seems like Wikipedia knows everything.

 

[Mike Johnson]

The 5s is already outdated, our facility has moved on to the 6s program far better.

5s is a program that goes into a work area and streamlines the work area to improve
the efficiency, time, costs, etc. of any work area. Clean up the area, remove all
items from the area that are not needed, design a safe work area, reduce the risks in
the area, etc. The concept was developed in Japan for their business models.
The 6th element is Safety which has been added to the concept.

• 1Sort (Seiri)
• 2Set In Order (Seiton)
• 3Shine (Seiso)
• 4Standardize (Seiketsu)
• 5Sustain (Shitsuke)

 

[RichColvin]

Mike is right. I especially like adding the 6th S.

 

[Chuck Lobaito]

Useful shop gadgets. Shop, and "evolving shop" photos. Lathe tidbits.

Just thought I'd start a thread with photos of different shops, shop photos of "then and now"......along with photos of useful shop gadgets and lathe discussion. Any photos and/or "shop talk" is what's being sought in this thread......for general interest sake. Please feel free to participate.

===================================

This is a clean up dust pan that I've been using for a few weeks, and have been very impressed with it's usefulness in cleaning up my shop. It has a couple gallon capacity bucket and the long handle saves all that bending over I've been doing with a regular dust pan......I ain't getting any younger, and this is really helpful to me!

Update: April 14, 2013.......this huge scoop dustpan is fantastic! I'm using it all the time. odie

For years, I've also been using a garden rake and snow shovel for the really big piles of lathe shavings, but this new gadget is going to replace all that! It can set on the floor by itself while you sweep shavings into it.....as you sweep chips into the front with both hands on the broom. When the bucket is full, grab the handle and dump a couple gallons of chips into the trash can. This makes for fast work of the job.....

The bucket has a hinge on it, but I haven't seen the need for that feature yet......maybe someone else will find that useful. I keep it locked into place as shown.

It was purchased at Home Depot for $18.....wish I had something like this years ago.:cool2:

ooc

Thank you for sharing. I always enjoy learning new ways to reconfigure our shop

 

[Odie]

Don't know how many turners are using a Veritas, but I suspect not very many!

My original Veritas was purchased around 1990, or so......and it was made with a single tapered carbide post that was too short to work with the taller 1/2" scrapers. It was on these forums that someone else advised me that the new production Veritas has two carbide tapered posts with different angles, and both are now tall enough to handle the 1/2" scrapers. I have since purchased the newer Veritas, and have been pleased with the raised burs I've been producing. I'm mainly using the more stout looking post with the lesser angle......this one has been working for me quite well.

Anyway, I've discovered that if I mount the old Veritas upside down, this gives me a third distance from the pivot post to the carbide post. This new option isn't used all that much, but when it is.....it's very handy to have. It gives me a new way to handle short narrow scrapers. You could do the same thing with turning the newer Veritas around, and switching the posts around, I suppose......but, since I had two of them, it works for me!

As you can see, both Veritas jigs are mounted on some scrap wood that fit conveniently between the bedways.....quick on, and quick off!

ko

 

[Odie]

It was some time ago there was discussion about how a waxed bowl blank, or a waxed roughed bowl could be marked with information. Just recently, I discovered that Renfrew hockey tape sticks to waxed surfaces, and a sharpie fine point writes on it easily.

ko

 

[Odie]

For anyone having a banjo that doesn't slide as well as it should, I've found that putting some graphite on a rag and applying it to the offset bar helps a lot. After an application, it slides very easily, and is good for a couple of months. Only takes a minute to do this. (I also use it on the drill press main column, so the table goes up and down easier.)

The graphite powder is cheap, and available here:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk....TRS0&_nkw=graphite+powder+locksmith&_sacat=0

Don't use a wet lubricant, because that will attract sanding dust, and will eventually exacerbate the problem......(don't ask me how I know that!)

ko

 

[Odie]

I've been using these two blocks for quite awhile as sanding supports, and they have been working out very well for that purpose. On three sides I've glued some foam matting for comfort of my hands and wrists. They represent three heights apiece. I cannot begin to tell you how important they have become to my sanding.....having that support greatly increases the effectiveness. (I believe I've showed you these before.)

Sometime last fall, I made up this tall sanding support, and it's become a great help when sanding at the top of the workpiece. The padded top is offset some, so it can fit between the bedways in two positions. Wish I had this years ago.......but, glad I have it now!

All the materials were taken from the "scrap bin", so it was free to me......just apply a little imagination!

(I'm not actually sanding this piece of Ovankol......just using it as a mock-up for the photo.)

ko

 

[James Seyfried]

This little air bag is advertised for leveling cabinets and windows, amongst many uses. When I saw it I instantly thought of struggling with large wood blanks. This little air pump wedge sure makes centering a large piece of wood on the spur chuck a lot easier! It is called a Big Horn 13202 Contractor-grade Air Pump Wedge and rated to lift 300 pounds 2" or so.

 

[Odie]

For those who wish to have a nice curved edge on their skews, I've found the Oneway skew jig does a real nice job of it. Of course, you do need the Wolverine V-arm in conjunction with the skew jig. I've heard others say this jig doesn't work, but I'll have to disagree with that assessment! I'm using it with the tall point facing the opposite side of the pivot point on the jig, and rocking the skew on the longitudinal axis. Once you get used to it, it's really an easy technique to master very quickly. Use a flat diamond hone to true up the edge several times before you go back to the grinder.


ko

 

[Zach LaPerriere]

For anyone having a banjo that doesn't slide as well as it should, I've found that putting some graphite on a rag and applying it to the offset bar helps a lot. After an application, it slides very easily, and is good for a couple of months. Only takes a minute to do this. (I also use it on the drill press main column, so the table goes up and down easier.)

The graphite powder is cheap, and available here:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk....TRS0&_nkw=graphite+powder+locksmith&_sacat=0

Don't use a wet lubricant, because that will attract sanding dust, and will eventually exacerbate the problem......(don't ask me how I know that!)

ko

View attachment 22162

I need to watch this thread better! My graphite powder didn't perform all that well, but it is mixed with something else—hence my recent post on lubricants.

Thanks for sharing such great stuff, Odie.

 

[Odie]

I need to watch this thread better! My graphite powder didn't perform all that well, but it is mixed with something else—hence my recent post on lubricants.

Thanks for sharing such great stuff, Odie.

Hey thanks, Zach....... I saw your "holy grail" revelation for the LPS 1 lubricant. Because it's also a dry lubricant, it ought to do pretty well for the banjo offset bar, too! This Chinese graphite works, too......not sure if it's mixed with anything, but I'm assuming it's pure.

ko