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VariGrind 1½

Joined
May 8, 2019
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Location
Funen, Denmark
I may not be the only one that has had a Vari Grind 2 lying around for a long time. I even bought an extra one for next to nothing. Sadly, I've found it clumsy in use and limited in function.
With no potential buyers, I've tried to put them to use, simply by converting the jig to a VG1 lookalike or hybrid: The VG 1½.

VariGrind 1, 1,5 og 2.JPG VariGrind 1.5.JPG

I simply set the VG 1 leg angle to 23° (*) and measured the distance from the nose of the gouge to the piviot point. From that I got the length of the new leg for the VG 1½.
For testing I used a galvanized bolt, filed part of the thread flat to fit the groove in the jig head and bolted it. The pointed end simply made on a grinder.

I have still to test it seriously, but for now it serves nicely as a jig for spindle gouges.


Lars


(*) I chose the 23° leg setting because that's the only setting on the VG 1 where the leg axis hits the nose of the gouge with the standard 1¾" protrusion.
The leg axis on the VG 2 *always* points to the nose of the gouge, so I was aiming to make the to versions comparable.
For most of my bowl gouge sharpening I use a leg angle of around 40° and mostly with a 2" protrusion.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
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Location
Millington, TN
What's the biggest drawback to the VG2 setup besides that it restricts the grinding to the center of the wheel. The restriction is there for safety reasons, but this allows me to quickly grind with one hand without worrying about my gouge from falling off the edge. I got my VG2 pretty cheap, but what am I missing by not having a VG1 or Lar's VG1.5 setup?

Lar's what size and length bolt did you use?
 

john lucas

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I like to use all.of the stone or CNN wheel surface which is why I don't like the V2. I like your modification.
 
Joined
Jul 28, 2005
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Location
Alexandria, VA
For our clubs skill enhancement shop grinders these were essential.
We had too many close calls and at least one cracked wheel due to inexperience.
A grinder shared among a bunch of learners, lowest common denominator method wins.
I fully understand not wanting one in my shop, but I did have a near 'bad day' when my wife startled me while I was grinding on a white wheel.
The gouge slipped off the wheel and the wolverine jig caught the wheel.
Took a big chunk out of the wheel, and the jig. Didn't shatter the wheel and I lived to sharpen another day.
 

Bill Boehme

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It appears to me that the wings are thin (very acute angle) when grinding a swept back grind using the V2. Being able to sweep the tool across the entire grinding wheel face give me more freedom in shaping the grind the way that I want.
 
Joined
May 8, 2019
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Location
Funen, Denmark
Karl, I live in metric world, so the bolt is an M12 x 140. If you go for a ½" by 6", the thread should still be functional after filing down two sides to fit the slot in the VG2 head.

Comparing the VG1 with VG2, I find that the fixed track is *the* possible reason to want the VG2.

- The VG2 jig head is wider, so it tends to hit the corner of the wheel more easily (look closely at the VG1½ photo and you'll see the nicks - that's why I got it cheap).

- I find the VG2 more top heavy, making it more clumsy to handle.

- Compatibility issues is not a fault with the VG2, but if you want to bring sharpening gear to some other place, you're very likely to meet a setup that fits VG1 but may demand height adjustments on the VG2.

- Bill scratches a topic that interests me the most but I can't conclude on. I have no doubt that there are differences in the grinding geometry.

Pictures below are supposed to illustrate the the axis differences, that I mentioned.
Excactly how that effects the grinds that come out of the two jigs (in practical use!) is beyond my geometry skills but the few experiments I've made with bowl gouges leave me with precisely the same impression that Bill mentions.
Something with the wings just doesn't seem right.

Lars

VG1.png VG2.png
 
Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
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324
Location
Erie, PA
Having students use the grinder is a very scary deal. I looked at the VG2 but it felt to loose and clunky. I found the Sharp Fast Sharpening System and have not looked back. I feel very comfortable letting a newbie use this system. They get a sharp tool and I do not have to worry about them blowing up a wheel. Gives them practice sharpening as to keeping the tool on the wheel before they move into a sharpening system of their own.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2018
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Location
Millington, TN
Lars, Those are great pics to show the difference between VG1 & VG2. It's hard for me to put my head around the geometry to know which is a better design. For instance, would extending/retracting the gouge on the VG2 be about the same as changing the VG1 angle arm?

Bill Boehme, Is it possible the wings on your gouge might not have been acute on the VG2 if you tried different settings (leg angle, distance to wheel, and exposed tool length)? It would be interesting for someone having both jigs to replicate a VG1 grind using various settings VG2 (using a permanent marker to see how close it matches).

Bill Blasic, Sharp Fast seems similar in geometry to a VG1 with the safety design of the VG2. I agree the Sharp Fast design looks tighter than VG2, but the VG2 looseness could allow more of the wheel to be used. Anyway, I'm curios to know which sharpening jig you suggest students purchase for their shop after teaching them to use the sharpen using Sharp Fast Jig?
 
Joined
Apr 20, 2006
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Location
Erie, PA
When I teach a student I explain why they are using the Sharp Fast, it keeps the tool in the center of the wheel and gives a good cutting profile that will let them learn how to cut. I have 5 other sharpening systems that I show them. The Tru-Grind. the Wolverine, the Nova, the Vector (which is what I use) and the Tormek. The other considerations are they use a 1/2" Thompson V gouge and they are sharpening it on a CBN wheel with the Sharp Fast. When they purchase their system for sharpening they are aware of what is out there.
 
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