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Vase turning for wet and dry flowers?

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Jun 20, 2006
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Cincinnati, OH
My wife would like me to turn her a few vases. It seems easy enough to turn a vase for dried flowers. Bore a hole. Contour the outside. Nice finish. Done.

What about turning a vase for fresh flowers where they have to be kept in water? Is there a finish for the hole that is waterproof? Does anyone make a glass or plastic insert that can be glued in place?

All assistance would make my wife very happy.
 
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i too used test tubes and last time bought a gross on ebay for $10 delivered. I have seen thick semi flexible tubing with the end stopped with rubber cork then coated in hot melt glue for a completely dry enviroment.

A technique I have not done but keep meaning to try is to make a vase hollow at both end and form it to fit over the top of an erlenmeyer flask. You could even vary the shape by making it a large box with the lid at the bottom of the piece.
 
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Veddy INTerrrresting

TurningDog said:
A technique I have not done but keep meaning to try is to make a vase hollow at both end and form it to fit over the top of an erlenmeyer flask.

I wonder if either Erle or Meyer would mind that...

Actually, that sounds like it would be a hoot. That shape would also allow extra weight from the water at the bottom of the piece. Heck, one could put some lead down there, too, just to make sure it'd stay on the desk with flowers trying to tip it. Although test tubes have to be LOTS cheaper.
 
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May 30, 2005
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SW Wisconsin
Epoxy also works

I've had good success (no failures) using epoxy to coat the inside of the vase. I use three coats of marine grade epoxy (System Three) and extend the coating out to make the rim waterproof as well. The biggest advantage is that I'm not limited in the interior size or dimensions of the vase. Just a cautionary note, 5-minute epoxy is not waterproof.
 
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Derby, Kansas, USA
Charlie Harley said:
Does anyone make a glass or plastic insert that can be glued in place?

Charlie, Check with your local hometown floral shop. They have many types of glass vases in many different shapes. I bought some for less than online catalogs. Might depend on how well you treat the LOYL to flowers also. :D

John :)
 
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DeanGThomas said:
I wonder if either Erle or Meyer would mind that...

Actually, that sounds like it would be a hoot. That shape would also allow extra weight from the water at the bottom of the piece. Heck, one could put some lead down there, too, just to make sure it'd stay on the desk with flowers trying to tip it. Although test tubes have to be LOTS cheaper.

tubes are a lot cheaper but hold a lot less, and depending on the piece change the center of gravity when you put water in them If you look around you an get 250ml for less than $2 and full liter flasks for less than $5 and big 2l flasks for $10 (this is a great thing to make cool aid in for the kids as well)
 
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I suppose most other people knew this in advance, or it would have shown up. Just in case, make sure your vase is very dry before boring the hole, and bore that a bit oversize if you're using glass. Failure to do so will wedge that tube tightly inside, and may even shatter it. DAMHIKT
 
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glass tubes

MichaelMouse said:
I suppose most other people knew this in advance, or it would have shown up. Just in case, make sure your vase is very dry before boring the hole, and bore that a bit oversize if you're using glass. Failure to do so will wedge that tube tightly inside, and may even shatter it. DAMHIKT
Been there, done that!!!!

One problem with the glass tubes, if you are selling them, people tip over to look at the bottom and the glass falls and breaks- I scotch tape part of it, not sure if the tape hurts the finish if left one a long time.
Also have used plastic syringe cases that have a tapered top. Can be used for shorter vases- Can cut with scissors to length, but not as professional looking as glass.
One thing to remember is that flowers if left too long, rot, and the glass/plastic/interior of epoxy used lining needs to be cleaned. (ie water may get on/in the wood if insert is not removable , Gretch
 
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
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Ballard (Seattle) WA and Volcano, Hawaii....on top
An Alternative to Tape

Gretch,

As an alternative to the "unprofessional" looking tape, you might try a small piece of museum tack on the bottom of a test tube to hold it in place.

This stuff is usually blue. It can be hand in most craft or art shops. It is fairly sticky but removeable. A small amount on the bottom of a test tube would hold it in the wooden form nicely yet still allow it to be removed if you want to. It won't damage the wood either.

Dave
 
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museum tack

David Somers said:
Gretch,

As an alternative to the "unprofessional" looking tape, you might try a small piece of museum tack on the bottom of a test tube to hold it in place.

This stuff is usually blue. It can be hand in most craft or art shops. It is fairly sticky but removeable. A small amount on the bottom of a test tube would hold it in the wooden form nicely yet still allow it to be removed if you want to. It won't damage the wood either.

Dave


Dave-is it like putty? Much volumne? If you take the glass out, does the tack stay in the bottom? or come out with the glass? Reusable?
I usually make the hole in the vase just so the flared lip of the glass sets into it, but not falls in. (ie depth is almost critical for me). I don't want the flared lip to stick out, Gretch
 
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To deal with the problem if movement and wood cracking I always over drill the hole a 1/16" and stand the tube straight on poster tack (another one of those should have read all the description on ebay, thought I was getting 12 packs for $0.99 until I got the shipping notices and realized I bought 12 cases).
 
Joined
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Ballard (Seattle) WA and Volcano, Hawaii....on top
Gretch said:
Dave-is it like putty? Much volumne? If you take the glass out, does the tack stay in the bottom? or come out with the glass? Reusable?
I usually make the hole in the vase just so the flared lip of the glass sets into it, but not falls in. (ie depth is almost critical for me). I don't want the flared lip to stick out, Gretch

Gretch, Sorry for the delay answering. I am working in Guam right now.

The stuff has the consistency of putty. No telling if it will stick to the glass more than the wood and actually come out with the glass. It is not like putty though, in that regular putty will eventually ooze into the wood pores and be really hard to scrape out. This stuff tends to stay intact. It is used in the museum industry to fix fragile things onto their shelves so they don't bounce off during an earthquake or other shock, but it does not harm objects.
 
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May 7, 2004
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Lynn Haven, FL
One other option I have seen, although not tried myself, is various sizes of PVC. Use a PVC plug that fits on the inside, not a cap or it won't fit in the hole. Another option I have seen by a woodworker (in chunks of wood, not turned) was some clear hard plastic tubing that was the same size as PVC. He drilled a large hole all the way through the wood, then counterbored a hole in the bottom to hold the cap. Whole thing was glued in, filled the bottom with some sort of foam filler, then cut a piece of felt to cover the bottom. Looked pretty good, better the clear than the white plastic PVC.
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
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Location
Gaston, Oregon
Vases

I use glass tubes for liners. The smaller ones from "Craft Supplies", and larger "chimney glasses" from "oddities". As stated by other users, make SURE you turn the wood to a LOOSE fit!!!! Serves two purposes....easy to slip the glass out for cleaning, and allows for wood movement. DO NOT GLUE IN!!! As a final footnote...make sure the wood is as dry as possible prior to turning, and use a product such as "General Finishes" seal-a-cel. I just pour some inside the wood bore, slosh it around, and dump out the extra, then leave it upside down for a day or so to drain and dry. Then slip in the liner, add water, add flowers, accept any and all hugs from TWIYL!!!!
 
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