Yes. The vibration is my problem right now. Although capable of 10" pieces, it is almost impossible to stop the vibration on a Jet mini mounted on the Jet stand. Especially if the wood is not close to homogeneous. Just a chuck alone presents a slight vibration. Even the slightest vibration can result in a bad catch when making delicate detail cuts. The stand is weighted, but the headstock just isn't robust/heavy enough and it is all on a suspended wooden floor that I am sure reflects some of the movement. Anyway...
A tool in constant contact with the work cannot "catch" due to vibration. A tool held steady to the rest as the piece revolves is what makes an out-of-round piece into a round one, and will not catch unless grossly overfed. A tool cavalierly held or pushed underneath a rotating piece of wood is what causes a catch. Further, in spite of a consistently-repeated myth, a half inch of steel is much more resistant to vibration than a half inch thick piece of wood, even if both are supported poorly at some length. If you hold the tool firmly to the rest and feed slowly with consistency, you can eliminate almost all vibration in the wood except that caused by differential friction.
So why not try the old method of toolrest high on convex shapes so there is a vector which pushes the tool away from contact and a "catch" if there's a lump or a hole? Inside a bowl you go low with the rest and cut so there's air over the tool if you lose your grip a bit, and flute facing inward so if you lose your grip big time the curve of the work wedges the curve of the tool to the center - the area you've already cleared. Might make you feel better about that mini. Now if the headstock/bed/toolrest combination does not move as a unit, you have real problems.
Turning the rpm up when a piece vibrates merely adds more energy to a possible catch and potential for damage to the piece or the turner. Turning it down will also change thefrequency, but if you hold the tool steady and rotate slowly into the work you will trim off the tops of any ridges without finding enough wood to "catch" before regaining round.
Look and listen to this where the round rim transitions to the severely out-of-round uncut interior. The tool is held firm, and the cut made even with two opposing high spots of 1/4" plus.
http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/?action=view¤t=Inside.mp4 The semifinal trim sounds entirely different, as the tool skims the surface taking off the wisps you see bouncing back onto my hand. It's a bowl gouge with a narrow sweet spot, which is not my preference for the job, because it can't be skewed properly. I like the last couple of passes with a broad sweep gouge.