• September 2025 Turning Challenge: Cindy Drozda Finial Box! (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Dave Potts, People's Choice in the August 2025 Turning Challenge (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Jim Hills for "Textured Ash Bowl" being selected as Turning of the Week for September 22, 2025 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

wasting away

Joined
Nov 15, 2020
Messages
878
Likes
772
Location
Huntington, VT
Getting a large rough blank round can be an ordeal, even with a heavy lathe. I used a couple of alternative tools on this intentionally unbalanced crotch. An electric chainsaw is fairly fast and direct but crude. For more controlled stock removal I used an angle grinder with an Arbortech cutting disc mounted in the banjo with a cross-slide vise. The workpiece is spun by hand as the grinder is gradually fed in with the x-y screws. Not super-fast, but less stressful than nibbling away with a gouge at low rpms.

1000001028.jpg1000001030.jpg1000001036.jpg
 
I have used a small axe, the most common for me is a planer, although it throws chips everywhere
A planer? Such as a hand-held electric planer?

Going long here...
A small axe, specifically a carving axe, on a larger chopping block (at least as large in diameter, or larger, that your typical unruly out of round rough piece) would be another very effective method. And dust free.

The magic of a carving axe is its ground bevels. A chopping/felling axe is made for large, powerful 2-handed swings that meet the wood diagonal to perpendicular to the surface, and with a convex bevel behind the edge that wedges away big chunks of wood.

In contrast, a carving axe is small, a single-hand hatchet size that has edge bevels that are flat to the edge (or slightly convex, I prefer a flat bevel to the edge for better bite, easy to re-grind), and a swing that is presented to the wood at a much flatter, acute angle to the surface (approaching parallel) that splits, almost shaves away the surface in shallow cuts, removing wood more like a drawknife or plane. Here is a very good quicky review of the new Swedish-made Gransfors Bruk medium carving axe. He shows it in action so you can see how a carving axe is presented to the wood. He also shows it against other high reputation carving axes (I own the Swedish-made Julia Kalthoff that he compares it to, a great carving axe). I have the large version of this same GB axe, and it wastes away wood fast, but can be a bit fatiguing due to the 2+lb weight. I re-ground the left bevel flat (for right-hand swinging).
View: https://youtu.be/xB4t4oDQxaA?si=JF0hwfF3UagQlz5Y


The axe maker I like best is Jason Lonon from North Carolina. His forging work is second to none, but I feel what really makes his small and large carving axes different is the ergonomics of the handles. Rather than radius shaped handles, he uses octogon faceted handles that lock into your grip with much less grip force needed than the radius shaped handles, like old Plumb-brand wood handled hammers. But then, buying baseball bat pine tar from Amazon for a few bucks greatly improves the grip of the regular radius shaped handles. Or hockey stick tape, with or without the twist. Hockey players like the twist due to the big gloves they wear.
View: https://youtu.be/jeIBlQV4V0o?si=js5eK55-aZnRMzqy


https://www.gransforsbruk.com/butik/produkter/timrings-och-slojdverktyg/ This is a Swedish site that you may have to hit a translate button for. See the Large Craft Car [or rather Carving] axe, the Mellan Craft Carpenter [Medium size, from the video above], and the Small Craft Car [Carving], the medium and small shown are stated as 90% and 80% scale of the Large. See authorized retailers at their website.

Julia Kalthoff carving axe, from Sweden. Previously my favorite, now second to Lonon only because of the handle shape. But, pine tar solves that issue for me.
https://www.kalthoffaxes.se/ Available through her website and select retailers.

And Jason Lonon's carving axes, see the smaller "spoon carving" and somewhat larger "carving" axes. Both also come with figured maple handles at a higher price, or standard ash and hickory handles for a lower price. Only sold through his website.
https://www.jasonalonontoolmaker.com/shop I have his smaller spoon carver (smaller in weight, but the handle fits my large glove size hand like it was made for me) and it is wonderful. Here he is making a bowl by hand (no lathe) from a cherry log.
View: https://youtu.be/qsnLsO5z9iI?si=B_JBlLyRvruHqczs


Don't let ego get in the way of buying the smaller (lighter) carving axes if that's what your body needs. They weigh in around 1-1.5lb and they do all the work with less stress and fatigue than their 2+lb brothers. And these small axes demand to be used keenly sharp. They all stay sharp for a project, but just like turning tools, their safest and most effective use comes when they are kept skew chisel sharp. A 1000-1200 grit stone of your choice followed by stropping works great for this.
 
Last edited:
A planer? Such as a hand-held electric planer?

Going long here...
A small axe, specifically a carving axe, on a larger chopping block (at least as large in diameter, or larger, that your typical unruly out of round rough piece) would be another very effective method. And dust free.

The magic of a carving axe is its ground bevels. A chopping/felling axe is made for large, powerful 2-handed swings that meet the wood diagonal to perpendicular to the surface, and with a convex bevel behind the edge that wedges away big chunks of wood.

In contrast, a carving axe is small, a single-hand hatchet size that has edge bevels that are flat to the edge (or slightly convex, I prefer a flat bevel to the edge for better bite, easy to re-grind), and a swing that is presented to the wood at a much flatter, acute angle to the surface (approaching parallel) that splits, almost shaves away the surface in shallow cuts, removing wood more like a drawknife or plane. Here is a very good quicky review of the new Swedish-made Gransfurs Bruk medium carving axe. He shows it in action so you can see how a carving axe is presented to the wood. He also shows it against other high reputation carving axes (I own the Swedish-made Julia Kalthoff that he compares it to, a great carving axe). I have the large version of this same GB axe, and it wastes away wood fast, but can be a bit fatiguing due to the 2+lb weight. I re-ground the left bevel flat (for right-hand swinging).
View: https://youtu.be/xB4t4oDQxaA?si=JF0hwfF3UagQlz5Y


The axe maker I like best is Jason Lonon from North Carolina. His forging work is second to none, but I feel what really makes his small and large carving axes different is the ergonomics of the handles. Rather than radius shaped handles, he uses octogon faceted handles that lock into your grip with much less grip force needed than the radius shaped handles, like old Plumb-brand wood handled hammers. But then, buying baseball bat pine tar from Amazon for a few bucks greatly improves the grip of the regular radius shaped handles. Or hockey stick tape, with or without the twist. Hockey pleyers like the twist due to the big gloves they wear.
View: https://youtu.be/jeIBlQV4V0o?si=js5eK55-aZnRMzqy


https://www.gransforsbruk.com/butik/produkter/timrings-och-slojdverktyg/ This is a Swedish site that you may have to hit a translate button for. See the Large Craft Car [or rather Carving] axe, the Mellan Craft Carpenter [Medium size, from the video above], and the Small Craft Car [Carving], the medium and small shown are stated as 90% and 80% scale of the Large. See authorized retailers at their website.

Julia Kalthoff carving axe, from Sweden. Previously my favorite, now second to Lonon only because of the handle shape. But, pine tar solves that issue for me.
https://www.kalthoffaxes.se/ Available through her website and select retailers.

And Jason Lonon's carving axes, see the smaller "spoon carving" and somewhat larger "carving" axes. Both also come with figured maple handles at a higher price, or standard ash and hickory handles for a lower price. Only sold through his website.
https://www.jasonalonontoolmaker.com/shop I have his smaller spoon carver (smaller in weight, but the handle fits my large glove size hand like it was made for me) and it is wonderful. Here he is making a bowl by hand (no lathe) from a cherry log.
View: https://youtu.be/qsnLsO5z9iI?si=B_JBlLyRvruHqczs


Don't let ego get in the way of buying the smaller (lighter) carving axes if that's what your body needs. They weigh in around 1-1.5lb and they do all the work with less stress and fatigue than their 2+lb brothers. And these small axes demand to be used keenly sharp. They all stay sharp for a project, but just like turning tools, their safest and most effective use comes when they are kept skew chisel sharp. A 1000-1200 grit stone of your choice followed by stropping works great for this.

This was really interesting and informative. Thanks for the links too.
 
Getting a large rough blank round can be an ordeal, even with a heavy lathe. I used a couple of alternative tools on this intentionally unbalanced crotch. An electric chainsaw is fairly fast and direct but crude. For more controlled stock removal I used an angle grinder with an Arbortech cutting disc mounted in the banjo with a cross-slide vise. The workpiece is spun by hand as the grinder is gradually fed in with the x-y screws. Not super-fast, but less stressful than nibbling away with a gouge at low rpms.

View attachment 79751View attachment 79752View attachment 79753
Very clever, Kevin. What do you use for a cross slide? Is it shop made, or something manufactured?
 
A planer? Such as a hand-held electric planer?

Going long here...
A small axe, specifically a carving axe, on a larger chopping block (at least as large in diameter, or larger, that your typical unruly out of round rough piece) would be another very effective method. And dust free.

The magic of a carving axe is its ground bevels. A chopping/felling axe is made for large, powerful 2-handed swings that meet the wood diagonal to perpendicular to the surface, and with a convex bevel behind the edge that wedges away big chunks of wood.

In contrast, a carving axe is small, a single-hand hatchet size that has edge bevels that are flat to the edge (or slightly convex, I prefer a flat bevel to the edge for better bite, easy to re-grind), and a swing that is presented to the wood at a much flatter, acute angle to the surface (approaching parallel) that splits, almost shaves away the surface in shallow cuts, removing wood more like a drawknife or plane. Here is a very good quicky review of the new Swedish-made Gransfors Bruk medium carving axe. He shows it in action so you can see how a carving axe is presented to the wood. He also shows it against other high reputation carving axes (I own the Swedish-made Julia Kalthoff that he compares it to, a great carving axe). I have the large version of this same GB axe, and it wastes away wood fast, but can be a bit fatiguing due to the 2+lb weight. I re-ground the left bevel flat (for right-hand swinging).
View: https://youtu.be/xB4t4oDQxaA?si=JF0hwfF3UagQlz5Y


The axe maker I like best is Jason Lonon from North Carolina. His forging work is second to none, but I feel what really makes his small and large carving axes different is the ergonomics of the handles. Rather than radius shaped handles, he uses octogon faceted handles that lock into your grip with much less grip force needed than the radius shaped handles, like old Plumb-brand wood handled hammers. But then, buying baseball bat pine tar from Amazon for a few bucks greatly improves the grip of the regular radius shaped handles. Or hockey stick tape, with or without the twist. Hockey players like the twist due to the big gloves they wear.
View: https://youtu.be/jeIBlQV4V0o?si=js5eK55-aZnRMzqy


https://www.gransforsbruk.com/butik/produkter/timrings-och-slojdverktyg/ This is a Swedish site that you may have to hit a translate button for. See the Large Craft Car [or rather Carving] axe, the Mellan Craft Carpenter [Medium size, from the video above], and the Small Craft Car [Carving], the medium and small shown are stated as 90% and 80% scale of the Large. See authorized retailers at their website.

Julia Kalthoff carving axe, from Sweden. Previously my favorite, now second to Lonon only because of the handle shape. But, pine tar solves that issue for me.
https://www.kalthoffaxes.se/ Available through her website and select retailers.

And Jason Lonon's carving axes, see the smaller "spoon carving" and somewhat larger "carving" axes. Both also come with figured maple handles at a higher price, or standard ash and hickory handles for a lower price. Only sold through his website.
https://www.jasonalonontoolmaker.com/shop I have his smaller spoon carver (smaller in weight, but the handle fits my large glove size hand like it was made for me) and it is wonderful. Here he is making a bowl by hand (no lathe) from a cherry log.
View: https://youtu.be/qsnLsO5z9iI?si=B_JBlLyRvruHqczs


Don't let ego get in the way of buying the smaller (lighter) carving axes if that's what your body needs. They weigh in around 1-1.5lb and they do all the work with less stress and fatigue than their 2+lb brothers. And these small axes demand to be used keenly sharp. They all stay sharp for a project, but just like turning tools, their safest and most effective use comes when they are kept skew chisel sharp. A 1000-1200 grit stone of your choice followed by stropping works great for this.
Yes an electric planer, as to axes, yup I actually have three sitting on the wall and a large Blue gum stump on the floor. :) My axes are from another era, all pre-war
 

Attachments

  • hand axes.jpg
    hand axes.jpg
    398.1 KB · Views: 25
Yes an electric planer, as to axes, yup I actually have three sitting on the wall and a large Blue gum stump on the floor. :) My axes are from another era, all pre-war
Great chopping block!
 
A planer? Such as a hand-held electric planer?

Going long here...
A small axe, specifically a carving axe, on a larger chopping block (at least as large in diameter, or larger, that your typical unruly out of round rough piece) would be another very effective method. And dust free.

The magic of a carving axe is its ground bevels. A chopping/felling axe is made for large, powerful 2-handed swings that meet the wood diagonal to perpendicular to the surface, and with a convex bevel behind the edge that wedges away big chunks of wood.

In contrast, a carving axe is small, a single-hand hatchet size that has edge bevels that are flat to the edge (or slightly convex, I prefer a flat bevel to the edge for better bite, easy to re-grind), and a swing that is presented to the wood at a much flatter, acute angle to the surface (approaching parallel) that splits, almost shaves away the surface in shallow cuts, removing wood more like a drawknife or plane. Here is a very good quicky review of the new Swedish-made Gransfors Bruk medium carving axe. He shows it in action so you can see how a carving axe is presented to the wood. He also shows it against other high reputation carving axes (I own the Swedish-made Julia Kalthoff that he compares it to, a great carving axe). I have the large version of this same GB axe, and it wastes away wood fast, but can be a bit fatiguing due to the 2+lb weight. I re-ground the left bevel flat (for right-hand swinging).
View: https://youtu.be/xB4t4oDQxaA?si=JF0hwfF3UagQlz5Y


The axe maker I like best is Jason Lonon from North Carolina. His forging work is second to none, but I feel what really makes his small and large carving axes different is the ergonomics of the handles. Rather than radius shaped handles, he uses octogon faceted handles that lock into your grip with much less grip force needed than the radius shaped handles, like old Plumb-brand wood handled hammers. But then, buying baseball bat pine tar from Amazon for a few bucks greatly improves the grip of the regular radius shaped handles. Or hockey stick tape, with or without the twist. Hockey players like the twist due to the big gloves they wear.
View: https://youtu.be/jeIBlQV4V0o?si=js5eK55-aZnRMzqy


https://www.gransforsbruk.com/butik/produkter/timrings-och-slojdverktyg/ This is a Swedish site that you may have to hit a translate button for. See the Large Craft Car [or rather Carving] axe, the Mellan Craft Carpenter [Medium size, from the video above], and the Small Craft Car [Carving], the medium and small shown are stated as 90% and 80% scale of the Large. See authorized retailers at their website.

Julia Kalthoff carving axe, from Sweden. Previously my favorite, now second to Lonon only because of the handle shape. But, pine tar solves that issue for me.
https://www.kalthoffaxes.se/ Available through her website and select retailers.

And Jason Lonon's carving axes, see the smaller "spoon carving" and somewhat larger "carving" axes. Both also come with figured maple handles at a higher price, or standard ash and hickory handles for a lower price. Only sold through his website.
https://www.jasonalonontoolmaker.com/shop I have his smaller spoon carver (smaller in weight, but the handle fits my large glove size hand like it was made for me) and it is wonderful. Here he is making a bowl by hand (no lathe) from a cherry log.
View: https://youtu.be/qsnLsO5z9iI?si=B_JBlLyRvruHqczs


Don't let ego get in the way of buying the smaller (lighter) carving axes if that's what your body needs. They weigh in around 1-1.5lb and they do all the work with less stress and fatigue than their 2+lb brothers. And these small axes demand to be used keenly sharp. They all stay sharp for a project, but just like turning tools, their safest and most effective use comes when they are kept skew chisel sharp. A 1000-1200 grit stone of your choice followed by stropping works great for this.
Great information about the axes. I use an axe on all of my bowls before turning. I haven't used a Jason Lonon axe yet but I will have to get one. I give my students in pole lathe classes the option to try different axes.
 
Great information about the axes. I use an axe on all of my bowls before turning. I haven't used a Jason Lonon axe yet but I will have to get one. I give my students in pole lathe classes the option to try different axes.
Jason is making hook tools for pole lathe operators, too.
 
Jason is making hook tools for pole lathe operators, too.
I have two of his hooks and they are great. No complaints.
 
Back
Top