Water Based Polyurethane

[Ed Weingarden]

Anyone use Minwax Polycrylic or Helmsman water based spar urethane? I usually apply oil based with the hf turning slowly on the lathe; it lays out nicely. My concern is that the water based urethanes may dry too quickly as I'm applying it to a large hf. Anyone have any experience, and suggestions for a successful application? Thanks.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Can’t help directly with those products, but I have used several wb products. They are very different from oil based - they have a fairly short open time (set time), and optically they are very different. The solids (plastics) used in wb are chemically different vs oil based, and refract light very differently. I do not like the look and stopped using them for this reason.

I always sprayed them, but they can be applied with a foam brush successfully. My advice is to practice on some “test” pieces and see if you like the look. I always do several test pieces when developing a new finishing method.

 

[Ed Weingarden]

Thanks Doug.

 

[john lucas]

I've been using tge Helmsman. Watch Steve Siiners video on glossy finishing.

 

[Ed Weingarden]

@john lucas - are you using the Helmsman water based spar?

 

[Alan Weinberg]

I have used Minwax water based polyurethane. Applied with a foam brush. Easy to do and forgiving.

 

[Mike Brazeau]

I used the Minwax Polycrylic years ago and found a slight dilution helped in the application. It sets up very quickly and it is best applied in a single stroke and don’t overbrush.

 

[Tim Connell]

I have used the Polycrylic, but just don't care for the look of it on most of what I turn. As Mike mentioned, application methods need to differ from oil based.

If you want the "traditional" oil finish look in a WB product, might look into Minwax oil modified polyurethane. WB cleanup and speed of drying, but gives the amber tint similar to oil based products. A few years ago when I played around with the oil modified poly, it was only available through Sherwin Williams locally. None of the big box stores stocked it. May be different now, or get it online.

 

[Tom McDonnell]

I've used polycrylic as well, without much success. Was brushing on with foam brushes. Lately have been using General finishes water based poly on the occasional bowl and flat work as well. I spray now instead of brushing. General makes an oil modified urethane that I like.

 

[Carl Scott]

I use it on natural edge bowls because it is easy to cover the bark. On pieces without bark I prefer oil based

 

[Richard Coers]

Water based is fine on white wood, but I hate the cold blue tint that shows on cherry and walnut. I looks too much like a coat of white glue on the dark colors.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Water based is fine on white wood, but I hate the cold blue tint that shows on cherry and walnut. I looks too much like a coat of white glue on the dark colors.

To address the cold look of most wb finishes, a toner can be added. I used Transtint dye, various shades of yellow/brown. Some of the “hybrid oil modified” wb finishes have an amber tint.

 

[Ed Weingarden]

Sounds like, due to the shorter open time, the wb poly may not lay out too well when applied via the Steve Sinner method. I'll have to get some and try it on some practice pieces. Thanks for all the feedback.

 

[Richard Coers]

To address the cold look of most wb finishes, a toner can be added. I used Transtint dye, various shades of yellow/brown. Some of the “hybrid oil modified” wb finishes have an amber tint.

I agree Doug. But often the finish coat is too thick and I can still tell it was a water based poly. I prefer a thin smooth oil poly finish.

 

[Greg Davidson]

I agree Doug. But often the finish coat is too thick and I can still tell it was a water based poly. I prefer a thin smooth oil poly finish.

You've hit on my two complaints about water-based poly: bad color on dark woods and thickness of finish. That being said, I was thinking about using water-based poly on the spalted bowl I posted in the what's on your lathe thread. I really want to keep the color as close as possible to what it is now. However, to combat the thickness, I was thinking of using thinned coats. Has anyone tried that?

 

[Tom Gall]

@Ed Weingarden, @Greg Davidson Don't know if you guys are opposed to a spray Finish, but, Krylon Matte Finish imparts little, if any, color to the wood. It can be worked or buffed to your desired sheen if you desire. Also available in Gloss and other versions. Downside for me is the odor, but probably not worse than any other spray finish. Can also be used as a fixative.
Krylon finishes

 

[Michael Nathal]

I routinely thin WB poly with water. Multiple thin coats seem to go on almost as easily as oil base. I usually only use WB on spalted wood. Also use Beall buffing after it cures.

 

[Vincent Vogel]

You've hit on my two complaints about water-based poly: bad color on dark woods and thickness of finish. That being said, I was thinking about using water-based poly on the spalted bowl I posted in the what's on your lathe thread. I really want to keep the color as close as possible to what it is now. However, to combat the thickness, I was thinking of using thinned coats. Has anyone tried that?

I've used thinned water based poly. Start with about a 10% reduction and experiment on scraps. I put 3 coats on and sanded between coats with 400. I applied it with a rag just like oil wipe on poly. You have to work fast because it doesn't have a very long open time.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I agree Doug. But often the finish coat is too thick and I can still tell it was a water based poly. I prefer a thin smooth oil poly finish.

I agree, and the light refraction is very different, not as much chatoyance. All reasons why I stopped using WB.

 

[Roger Wiegand]

I prefer the look of Target's EM2000 WB varnish to any of the WB polyurethanes I've tried. It gives most of the look of an oil based finish with the very fast dry time of WB. Colored shellac as a first coat can further pop grain and add more color.