• We are in the process of upgrading the forums today, Sunday, February 8th. The forums may be responding slowly or may be offline during periods throughout the day. This work should be finished by midday. Thank you for your patience.
  • Congratulations to Bernie Hyrtzak, People's Choice in the January 2026 Turning Challenge (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to David Croxton for "Geri's Basket Illusion" being selected as Turning of the Week for February 2, 2026 (click here for details)
  • AAW Symposium demonstrators announced - If the 2026 AAW International Woodturning Symposium is not on your calendar, now is the time to register. And there are discounts available if you sign up early, by Feb. 28. Early Bird pricing gives you the best rate for our 40th Anniversary Symposium in Raleigh, North Carolina, June 4–7, 2026. (There are discounts for AAW chapter members too) For more information vist the discussion thread here or the AAW registration page
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Waterproof Finishes

E

eldon

Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
2
Likes
0
I am going to make some "champagne glasses" out of walnut and would like to find out what type of finish I should put on them. These "champagne glasses" will also have some stenciling on them so the finish will need to cover and protect the stenciling.

Typically I use lacquer for most of my projects. However, I don't know if lacquer will stand up to constant contact with liquid. I am concerned that an oil finish may not hold up either and it may smudge the stencils. Any ideas?
 
Marine grade epoxy would be my first suggestion. I have heard that some folks use a polyurethane based finish with good results.
 
Eldon, I've made a lot of goblets and all were made for use. For the inside I used locktite 2-ton epoxy from walmart. Has a slow set up time so I was able to work it plus it pumps out equal amounts from each tube (no guess work). I use a wood handled foam brush, the plastic ones break. Just don't play with the epoxy too much or the brush will fill it with small bubbles. 1 bush one goblet then start over.

On my walnut pieces I would start with just a little mixed with crushed turquoise and put a small puddle in the bottom, just enough to form a 1/2 inch or so circle or dot (it'll flatten out). Let it completely dry before applying the rest of the epoxy. Anything light colored will work just keep it pleasant to look at. It will help reflect the light when finishing the inside and save you from having to put a second coat on after you find that small spot you missed!

Sand it smooth on the inside and use a tacky cloth to clean out the dust just before the epoxy, you won't see it, feel it or notice it even if you clean with a moist cloth but start pushing sticky epoxy around and the dust literally comes out of the wood work. I pull my epoxy up and onto the rim and a small amount over the rim. sand the outside smooth when dry. Then apply several coats of a spray spar varnish sanding between coats.

I have several wine glasses at home that have been in use for more than a few years and have no problems. The only failure I had was one that had a small spot the epoxy didn't cover, the wine bled through and lifted the finish on the outside, repairable, and that's when I started using something light in the bottom for reflection and no problems since.

Good Luck!

Frank D
 
Thanks so much for the great information. I think I will try the epoxy coating. I have two sets of glasses to make so guess I had better get busy on them now that I know what to use.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top