Wax for tung oil on bowls

[Matt Meadows]

Good day all,

I've dusted off my lathe and made a half dozen bowls that are all in the process of a tung oil finish. I'll let them cure for a week and then apply a light wax coat.

Normally I use Minwax, as this has always worked well for me in the past. However I feel it worth asking if anyone has used Renaissance wax after an oil finish like Tung.

I'm at a point I'd like to experiment a little.

My goal is to buff these to a satin Sheen and put a thin layer of protection over the wood. These bowls will either be "shelf queens" or maybe used as candy bowls. They're all likely to end up as Christmas gifts so heaven only knows what people will do with them lol.

The bowls are white oak and walnut. Pics coming soon but I want to get the finish done.

 

[Dean Center]

Renaissance wax is harder than Minwax, and reportedly won't show finger prints. Carnuba is also harder, and is a natural product in case users care. Beeswax is softer, but also natural. My late friend, a very accomplished accomplished turner, thought highly of Liberon Black Bison wax.

You should use what you like, but I suspect most of the experienced turners on the forum would recommend something other than the Minwax.

 

[Steven Forrest]

Re: waxes, any of them will work, but they do have different properties, largely due to their hardness/melting point. Ren wax is microcrystalline, with an old school "stoddard" solvent (whatever that is) - it stinks of petroleum distillates until it flashes off. As noted, fingerprint resistant, which is its claim to fame for museum use, etc. Doctor's Woodshop in Oregon mixes up his own microcrystalline wax with walnut oil as the solvent. (His website has some useful explanatory info - the guy's a chemist, after all). The microcrystalline waxes are synthetic (as is mineral oil and paraffin, it's worth noting).
I've used tung oil with microcrystalline wax over it, no problem whatsoever.

 

[Michael Nathal]

If you are using 100% pure tung oil, it probably won't be cured in only one week. (depends on temperature of your shop, and how thick you applied the oil) If you are using a tung oil blend, most of those have a varnish component and may cure faster. I would wait longer before buffing. You mention buffing: I am guessing you mean Beall buffing? if so, just use the third wheel, carnauba wax.

 

[Tim Connell]

I use Renaissance wax on most things I turn, almost always over polymerized tung oil. Wipe on, wipe off, nice soft feel and no fingerprints.

A small jar goes a very long way and lasts a very long time. My little 200ml jar has lasted years.

 

[Richard Coers]

I stopped waxing finishes a long time ago after getting water spotting when I loaded up bowls in a drizzle of rain. I use Mirka Abralon for the final buffing, and I couldn't see any difference from a waxed finish.

 

[Matt Meadows]

If you are using 100% pure tung oil, it probably won't be cured in only one week. (depends on temperature of your shop, and how thick you applied the oil) If you are using a tung oil blend, most of those have a varnish component and may cure faster. I would wait longer before buffing. You mention buffing: I am guessing you mean Beall buffing? if so, just use the third wheel, carnauba wax.

Actually I meant hand buff with a cloth, giving the bowl a good rub down before waxing. I could have been more specific, but your point is still helpful. Once I get my grinder upgraded I'll consider the Bell.

 

[Mauricio Kolenc]

Renaissance wax is unbeatable ( in my experience) as a topcoat, but make sure the tung oil is really dry as it can take a long time ( I prefer polymerized). Carnauba is also great but it must be applied with a buffing wheel preferably in a surface that has been buffed with polishing compound.