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What’s the real deal with Beall?

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So I’ve seen some real nice Beall 3 step finishes by a variety of turners including Odie. Bought the system, read instructions carefully, searched Beall on this forum, and then 3 step finished a few bowls after PTO.

But I’m not impressed—not getting the beautiful finish I’ve seen elsewhere.

I need some tips. How long do you buff, say, the outside of a 6 inch bowl? Should it take 2 minutes or 20? How much time on steps 1 and 2? What else do I need to know? Advice is needed before my Beall system is up on the for sale forum.
 
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If you already have a very smooth surface, it shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes per step, at least at sufficient RPM. If I'm going for the full 3-step polish, I like to sand to 1000 grit first, then I use a standalone 1725 RPM motor (dedicated to sanding and polishing wheels) with the Beall system. But usually, I sand to a lower grit and just use the tripoli wheel to remove sanding marks but leave a lustrous but not overly-shiny finish.
 
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It may be your finishing steps. Also the finish you use may impact the buffing results. For instance if you use a satin level of finish it will not polish to a high gloss. The number of coats of finish and cure time affect the results also. Cure time of 3 to 7 days is preferable. Also it is a buff and pressing hard will have a bad effect on the finish applied. Then lastly what results are you expecting?
 

Dave Landers

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I don't spend that long on any of the steps - just one pass. So the outside of a 6" bowl maybe 20-30s with each wheel?
But buffing is not going to fix insufficient sanding or a poor finish.

For things like bowls and hollow forms I generally sand to 400 (sometimes 800 if 400 leaves visible scratches - looking at you, Walnut).
The finish needs to look good on its own, and be fully cured. Buff too early and you'll "tear" the finish. Buffing too fast (rpms) or pressing too hard can also damage some finishes (I've had issues with shellac). And as Gerald said, you can't turn a satin into a gloss. But you should see a better "luster" and feel a smoother surface when done. I buff walnut oil finishes on the exterior of my bowls mainly for that silky-smooth surface when someone picks it up.

I have found that I get better results at speeds slower than the Beall instructions suggest. I'm usually running the Tripoli around 600-700 rpm, the wax around 900, and white diamond somewhere in between. Slower lets the wheels be "softer". Started doing that when some shellac finishes got messed up due to the wheel speed/heat/stiffness but I now use those speeds on everything (I attach the wheels on my lathe, so speed control is easy).
 

odie

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So I’ve seen some real nice Beall 3 step finishes by a variety of turners including Odie. Bought the system, read instructions carefully, searched Beall on this forum, and then 3 step finished a few bowls after PTO.

But I’m not impressed—not getting the beautiful finish I’ve seen elsewhere.

I need some tips. How long do you buff, say, the outside of a 6 inch bowl? Should it take 2 minutes or 20? How much time on steps 1 and 2? What else do I need to know? Advice is needed before my Beall system is up on the for sale forum.

Alan.....

If you want anyone's specific reply to your posts, you need to do it like this: Use a @ followed by the person's handle, like this: @Alan Weinberg. It is strictly by chance that I saw this thread, even though you mentioned me by name. Since you did, I almost feel compelled to reply. You've already gotten some experienced replies to your post.

It would be difficult to give you pointers on how to improve your Beall buffing results, since I know next to nothing of your methods. If you add more specific questions, you can possibly get more pertinent answers. You do ask some questions that I can address, though...

I normally spend about 1-2 hours Beall buffing two bowls, and the size of the bowl doesn't seem to impact the time frame a whole lot....this is more dependent on the intricacy of the bowl, and the species it's made from, than anything else. (It should be noted that I am a very slow worker, who generally does two bowls at a time. I'm very methodical and contemplate every step of every process throughout the entire making of any bowl I put on my lathe. This is a personality trait that probably pans out to me.....as an individual.....probably spends more time doing just about everything, than most other turners do.)

I can tell you that the finish I got with the Beall system wasn't as good 20yrs ago, as it is now. My lathe turning skills have improved considerably since then, too......so, how well your preparation of the bowl prior to bringing it to the buffer, is a critical element to the possible outcome you can expect to have.

I am using a single speed 1725rpm motor for all the buffing steps.

Do not expect scratches to be eliminated with the Tripoli step. I've been very disappointed in this.....even though there are claims that scratches can be removed with this step. It would be highly advisable to depend more on improving your turning and sanding skills, and this is what is going to be the difference in making the Beall 3-step buffing method work for you.

Use the Tripoli (known as "EEE") and the White Diamond very sparingly. Excess compound on your wheels is a major problem with some turners who initially use the Beall system.

With just about anything you can do on or off the lathe with turnings......it takes time, and continually adjusting your processes to improve your results. You are not going to find anyone on these forums, who has "walked the walk", saying they haven't improved their skills and methods in the past 10 years.:)

-o-
 
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Joined
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@odie: great advice. I’m obviously not spending enough time on each step. I feel catatonic staring at the bowl as I buff for more than a couple minutes per step. I’ve also used too much compound on the 3 steps. But buffing is even more boring than sanding . . . I’m probably pressing too hard also. Will try various speeds, less pressure, less compound, more time.

It’s quite interesting to read the variety of techniques used by people and I appreciate all the advice and suggestions.
 
Joined
Feb 1, 2024
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I’ve been considering getting one of these systems too. Sounds like I need to sand to high values (1000+), apply a finish, let it cure, then buff through the compounds (sparingly applied) at relatively low speeds. Thanks for posting and all the replies.
 
Joined
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Colorado Springs, CO
I always sand to #400 grit, and with some woods...to #1,000. But the only finish I put on a piece before Beall buffing is Mylands sanding sealer, to make the grain "pop". All of the advice you've received from others so far is outstanding and spot on. The only additional advice I have is to HOLD ON TIGHT as you increase speed.
 

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