What should I do now with this plum vase?

[Lou Jacobs]

A neighbor called me yesterday and gave me this piece of his plum tree’s trunk that blew down in a storm two nights ago. It had some rot in it, and some punky wood, but I was able to turn this vase from the crotch section. It is still wet, and not uniform thickness - about 1/8” at the rim, but down to perhaps 3/8” near the base, then a solid inch thick base. Is this doomed to split as it dries? Best way to try to dry it? How would you handle it? Thanks for thoughts!

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

The flared base could be a problem especially with the mass of wood in the middle of it, but even without that flair it would still be a problem. I would relieve the stress by completely boring out the bottom and removing the flair, then coat the end grain on the bottom with anchor seal and put it aside for about a year and keep a record of the weight.
When the weight stops decreasing it is probably safe to finish turn.

 

[Glenn Lefley]

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A neighbor called me yesterday and gave me this piece of his plum tree’s trunk that blew down in a storm two nights ago. It had some rot in it, and some punky wood, but I was able to turn this vase from the crotch section. It is still wet, and not uniform thickness - about 1/8” at the rim, but down to perhaps 3/8” near the base, then a solid inch thick base. Is this doomed to split as it dries? Best way to try to dry it? How would you handle it? Thanks for thoughts!

with the size you mention and fruit wood. It should crack within a few days. You need to do something about the mass at the bottom.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

It certainly is a pretty vase, so I hope it works out.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

Thanks for that Mark, and Glen and Don for your thoughts. I’m guardedly (foolishly?) optimistic that the amount of punky wood in the base might serve a similar function to Don’s idea of boring out the base. I’ve immersed the vase in desiccant to see how it responds. This can’t be a twice turned piece, as the walls are too thin to have anything left to re-turn after drying and any movement at all.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

On the plus side, it did give me a good test for my Nova Powergrip jaws, which served terrifically. Never had a sense that the piece was at risk of coming loose.

 

[Jim Reynolds]

I suggest that you turn it consistently thin and then let it dry. Three external legs could hold up the dried result.

 

[robo hippy]

Well, if I could, I would soak it in a vat of Danish type oil. That would soak in well from the end grain. Walnut oil would work as well, and you could apply multiple coats. If you are planning a spray on finish, the walnut oil could cause problems. I would at least apply penetrating oil onto the bottom of the vase, then wrap it in stretch film.

robo hippy

 

[Lou Jacobs]

Robo, that’s an interesting idea. I don’t have enough to immerse it, but I could immerse the base while saturating the sides with lots of Danish oil in multiple applications. I’ll take it out of the desiccant and see what it looks, and try that. Thanks!

 

[Gary Beasley]

Another finish to try is “teak oil”. It seems to be very similar to danish oil but much thinner. I assume thats to allow it to penetrate denser wood. I like it better than danish oil as it seems to make a harder film and looks good with a few coats on less dense wood without getting splotchy shiny and dull spots.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Drilling a 3/4-1” hole in the center of the base would help, but may not prevent excessive cracking. Rounding the sharp edges of thhe base would help, or removing the flair. You can also use poly thinned 1:1 vs danish oil or other oils.

 

[Kirk Amidon]

Beautiful vase, hope it holds together for you. As a beginning turner, I really, really really, appreciate that in addition to showing the final product, you show the piece of wood you started with. This really helps to visualize what is possible, and understand a lot more about the final piece and how it was created. Thanks!

 

[Lou Jacobs]

Thanks very much for your comment Kirk. I also enjoy seeing the postings that show a turner’s thinking about how to get the best use out of a piece of wood. There’ve been a few others like that here lately. All good stuff.

 

[Bill Boehme]

A neighbor called me yesterday and gave me this piece of his plum tree’s trunk that blew down in a storm two nights ago. It had some rot in it, and some punky wood, but I was able to turn this vase from the crotch section. It is still wet, and not uniform thickness - about 1/8” at the rim, but down to perhaps 3/8” near the base, then a solid inch thick base. Is this doomed to split as it dries? Best way to try to dry it? How would you handle it? Thanks for thoughts!

My limited experience from attempting to turn wood from a plum tree in our back yard didn't go well. In fact, I've never seen any other wood crack nearly as much as that plum tree did. Too bad, because the wood was spectacular. It's probably too late to go back and get a uniform wall thickness. If it were uniformly ⅛" wall thickness from top to bottom then it might warp without cracking. I agree with Don that the thick flared base is likely to be a problem.

Another finish to try is “teak oil”. It seems to be very similar to danish oil but much thinner. I assume thats to allow it to penetrate denser wood. I like it better than danish oil as it seems to make a harder film and looks good with a few coats on less dense wood without getting splotchy shiny and dull spots.

Products labeled as Teak Oil just means that they are to be used as an oil finish on teak wood (or any other wood) ... the oil is actually linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits and sometimes a little bit of varnish (but naming the product based upon what's actually in the can simply sounds so boringly pedestrian). Oh, and no Danes were harmed in making Danish oil ... it's also linseed oil and solvent.

 

[Lars Hansen]

Oh, and no Danes were harmed in making Danish oil ... it's also linseed oil and solvent.

Bill, on behalf of the few million of us: Thank you!
Your's, Lars

 

[Lou Jacobs]

Just an update: after soaking the vase in Danish oil, as Robo recommended, it’s been sitting on the shelf for a few weeks. It did develop a few minor cracks, but nothing awful. It seems now to be stable. I finish sanded yesterday and applied Mahoney’s beeswax finish. I was surprised how little the shape changed, and was able to do most of the sanding on the exterior, on the lathe at very slow speed. I imagine it will darken a bit, as it ages, but at the moment it is showing a nice range of colors. Thanks all for the advice and support!

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

I imagine it will darken a bit, as it ages, but at the moment it is showing a nice range of colors.

Back in the 1990's when preparing my parents house for sale we decided the old plum tree should go since it was mostly dead, but it did have some live wood that when cut into showed some beautiful colors.

This lamp looked good when first finished however it now look's washed out and drab.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Something that several of us "old timers' do here in Hawaii is we use Cedarcide Oil. It used to be called "Turner's Choice" I still use it all the time when I turn Koa urns. I do not want them to move and or crack. Not saying to go out and buy it. You have done all you can, turned thin and even. Like a few members told you, that thicker base could a problem.