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What's Needed to Process a Log

L

Lewis Elliott

Joined
Mar 15, 2023
Messages
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Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
Buying "ready-processed" bowl blanks can become quite expensive. As a beginner turner, intrigued by the idea of using "tree-fall" for turning; I have a couple of questions about the process. Of course you need a chain saw to initially cut the fallen tree into manageable sized logs; but then what? What other tools and jigs are needed to further process the log to get it into a lathe mountable bowl blank? I have used a chain saw to fell small trees and break the fallen tree down into log pieces for disposal in the past (my pre-turning experience). I have used an axe and wedges to split the logs into extremely rough "fire-place-ready" pieces; but nothing that would have been safely lathe mountable. That is where my questions begin. What type jigs and tools can be used to safely hold the log so that it can be further sawn in half and what are some of the best sawing tools to use for that process, my first guess is maybe a bandsaw but how the heck do you manage safely and controllably cutting a log on a bandsaw? If a bandsaw is not available, how would you safely manage such a cut with a chain saw; how would you hold the log for a controlled and safe cut? Any assistant anyone can provide is greatly appreciated.

Assuming you can tell me how to get a clean and reasonably flat surface after such a cut, my next question is how to process that half of a log into a round bowl blank? Are there purchasable jigs for that, for use with a small 14" bandsaw; and if so, what are they?
 
Lewis Elliott said:
Buying "ready-processed" bowl blanks can become quite expensive. As a beginner turner, intrigued by the idea of using "tree-fall" for turning; I have a couple of questions about the process. Of course you need a chain saw to initially cut the fallen tree into manageable sized logs; but then what? What other tools and jigs are needed to further process the log to get it into a lathe mountable bowl blank? I have used a chain saw to fell small trees and break the fallen tree down into log pieces for disposal in the past (my pre-turning experience). I have used an axe and wedges to split the logs into extremely rough "fire-place-ready" pieces; but nothing that would have been safely lathe mountable. That is where my questions begin. What type jigs and tools can be used to safely hold the log so that it can be further sawn in half and what are some of the best sawing tools to use for that process, my first guess is maybe a bandsaw but how the heck do you manage safely and controllably cutting a log on a bandsaw? If a bandsaw is not available, how would you safely manage such a cut with a chain saw; how would you hold the log for a controlled and safe cut? Any assistant anyone can provide is greatly appreciated.

Assuming you can tell me how to get a clean and reasonably flat surface after such a cut, my next question is how to process that half of a log into a round bowl blank? Are there purchasable jigs for that, for use with a small 14" bandsaw; and if so, what are they?
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I do mine pretty much entirely with chainsaw. If you have enough log handy, sacrifice a couple feet or so of 8 to 10 inch diameter log, cut a flat on one side to lay it flat on ground for stability then cut V-notches in the middle of each for a "sawbuck" - Then I can process logs - If I am not going to turn the green wood right away, I will leave the log whole (and covered and off the ground) until I want to cut a piece off it, Then I can sacrifice a few inches off an end (to cut past any checking that started as the log dries) and figure how big a bowl I can make (based on diameter of log, and how big my lathe is) and cut roughly "square" (That is, length of cut off will be about same as diameter, However if diameter is bigger than lathe swing, I'll cut shorter length) on the sawbuck, then I stand log on flat end (usually on a pile of sawdust so I don't cut into dirt with chainsaw) and cut through (or cut away) the pith (Bigger logs can make more bowl blanks, so if it is big enough I cut a couple or three inches out of the middle to capture the pith , and save that as it gives quarter sawn spindle blanks!) , once I have my rough sections I can just trim corners off to get it "mostly" round (typically octagonal) and mount that to the lathe - It does require that most of my roughed out bowls are considerably smaller than the lathe swing - if I want bigger bowls, I have to spend more time trimming it round-er (Or, a cutz-all wheel in angle grinder)

If you wanted to go "production mode" then you'll mostly need chainsaw, sawbuck (anything from my simple 2-log sawbuck to a built-up fancy one) and a big bandsaw (I don't have one, and not sure I'd even use it for making round blanks if I did) and plenty of anchorseal to seal end grain so it doesn't crack before you get to turning the blanks.

Some particularly nice logs I may anchorseal the ends anyway (and shorter sections of good logs) to try and preserve as much as I can after cutting out the pith with chainsaw
 
I typically process with a chainsaw only as described by Brian. The bandsaw in my shop is rarely used - I prefer to cut off the corners and mount between centers to get to round. The quarter sawn wood that results from cutting out the pith is saved either for spindle turning stock or milled into lumber for other uses. I usually core most everything I rough out - can’t stand to see good wood turned into shavings if I can help it.
 
I only own a chainsaw. There are a lot of videos out there about using a bandsaw to make turning blanks. I cut the log to length with chainsaw. Cut the length in half. Then trim off the corners to make a relative circular shape. Rounding into a blank ready to turn is done on the lathe with a 5/8" bowl gouge.
 
You can get started with just a chain saw. I did. My approach was to cut the log in pieces about 20% longer than the diameter. Seal the ends if not going to turn right away. When ready to process, lay it on it's side and put supports on either side so it can't roll while cutting. Wedges, put between two other logs, etc. Just be sure it's stable from side to side. You'll want to flip it when you get close to the bottom so you don't dig your chainsaw blade into the dirt. Decide where you want to split it lengthways (a whole topic unto itself), draw a line (big red crayon marker) from end to end then chainsaw it lengthways. I take the tip of my chainsaw blade and go along the red line to make sure I can see it. Once the chips start you'll lose sight of it. Do not try to cut from the end down through the end grain. Slice it along the middle line you made watching your line mark and following your marks for where you want to cut it on the ends. If you end up with a semi clean cut/split then you can trim off the corners to make it a bit more manageable to spin and done.

I did it this way for a long time. Of course a V shaped cutting bench is a big help. Easy to find simple plans for them here and easy to build from a couple of 2x4. A circle jig and a big bandsaw are of course another huge advantage but if you can split and trim it up with some careful chainsaw cuts you're off to the races.
 
With a bandsaw safe cutting requires support close to directly below the blade. Any time there is air between the bottom of your workpiece and the table there is potential for a dangerous catch or kickback. The taller and narrower the piece the more leverage it has and the more risk. Always keep your hands well away from the blade.

To crosscut a round log you need to set it in a v-cradle, otherwise the blank will roll into the cut uncontrollably leading to the utmost damned astonishment at best. At that point the blank can be set on end and ripped through or on either side of the pith. With the flat face of the blank on the table, a cardboard disc can be screwed or pinned to the bark side and used as a guide to make a round blank. I have a dozen or so cardboard discs for this purpose. There are circle jigs you can buy or make as well.

This works for relatively small logs, big ones are too heavy to maneuver on the saw table and are best roughed out with a chainsaw and sawbuck as described above at least to the point of having a flat face.

I try to dice up the logs to give a balanced look to the resulting vessel, but I always start between centers and often shift the blank as I go, so the initial rounding is not necessarily where the piece winds up.

A chainsaw is less likely to bind up in the cut than a bandsaw. Both are potentially hazardous and need to be approached with caution and an understanding of the forces involved. Keep the blades sharp and don't force the cuts.

Richard Raffan has a good discussion of roughout procedure in his book The Art of Turned Bowls.
 
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You will quickly find out what goes into the "expensive" blanks and why they are priced that way. You will find out it takes hundreds of dollars of equipment and supplies. Then the blanks can get infested with bugs, and get filled with drying cracks. Working timber is not easy and very time consuming.
 
I use a chainsaw and a big log of something I'm not going to turn, usually poplar, set on end on the ground with a V cut into the top (end) to hold the logs. There are lots of nicer looking woodworking projects to hold logs for cutting, but mine is easy, fast, free, and works well, though every five years or so I have to find a new one.
1. Put log onto V of 'stump'
2. Cut to a length that will leave some extra on the ends, as Randy describes, though for smaller logs, it might be sized for 2 blanks from each half log
3. Rip the log down the pith, cutting into the side of the log, which takes a little practice but is much faster than cutting into the end
4. Take one half log, place in V on edge, again ripping, make a flat on the bark side
5. Flip the log flat and trim off corners. Marking a circle on the cut surface helps avoid taking off too much.
6. If, and only if, the blank is going to max out my lathe's throw, I will trim the remaining little corners off tight to the circle.

If I lived someplace in Africa or the Amazon where the wood is really hard, I might bandsaw the blanks round. Or if I was a production turner. It certainly speeds up the turning part of the process. But I don't and am not, and rounding the blank on the lathe works fine.
 
1. Always check the sawn face of the log for structural defects that might cause the blank to separate when turning.
Sections of rot, bark inclusions ( bark is about like air in strength), ring chairs (often hard to see on a chainsaw face are s Separation of growth rings), cracks…..

a bandsaw is real useful but not essential. Beginners find turning a disc much easier than rounding a cornered blank.
cut toward the head stock when rounding it will go much better.

@Dean Center had a succinct recap of the process.
a few pictures might help

1CDBEDA5-548C-4690-8401-699B92F3EE97.pngE0FF97D9-86E6-40B7-B0E0-E592DE9AC16C.png
 
Since we have already wandered on to process from equipment, I was wondering:

Does anyone simply rip a slot in the log from one side down into the pith? Like halfway splitting it... viewed from the end of the log, it looks like a Pac Man with his mouth closed.

It is certainly less initial work -- and sometimes you get a big haul of wood and little time to stabilize it, so that could help. This also gives you the option of splitting the blank into thirds later, or fifths, or twelfths, or perhaps even not at all. Would it not also dry out more evenly? (Maybe?). Is one cut across the rings adequate to break the radial tension that causes checking?
 
Some log sections, especially larger ones, can be made into several blanks that might not be based on initially halving the log. Otherwise, I wouldn't kerf a log just for tension release. Cutting with the bar nose is more difficult than using the nearer part of the bar and the dogs and doesn't save much if any time. Also, you lose the option of where to make the initial cut on each log section which usually is different from one to another. If storing a log for a while I get it off the ground on bunks and seal the ends. Long storage can lead to degrade like blue stain and insect infestation as well as checking. I may buck blanks to length and split, seal and store them for a while but there's no real advantage over log length other than ease of handling. If I do that I leave extra length on each piece to account for the inevitable end checking.
 
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Gerald Rutledge said:
Since we have already wandered on to process from equipment, I was wondering:

Does anyone simply rip a slot in the log from one side down into the pith? Like halfway splitting it... viewed from the end of the log, it looks like a Pac Man with his mouth closed.

It is certainly less initial work -- and sometimes you get a big haul of wood and little time to stabilize it, so that could help. This also gives you the option of splitting the blank into thirds later, or fifths, or twelfths, or perhaps even not at all. Would it not also dry out more evenly? (Maybe?). Is one cut across the rings adequate to break the radial tension that causes checking?
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Nah. If I am gonna cut down through the pith I'm gonna complete the split entirely - simply splitting at the pith does not eliminate checking. Anyone who has tried it, thinking like you asked, has discovered in short order, it does not work. I already knew that from an early age cutting & splitting firewood for grandpa's farm.

If it were possible to completely seal the end grain and control an even process of the wood releasing moisture from the middle to the outside, you could likely dry an entire log to completely dry and stabilized , were it allowed to sit for long enough... but even then you'd sacrifice some of the end grain to checking - which is why I leave my supply of green turning blank wood in whole log form for as long as possible.

Neighbor had a 5 inch diameter log of maple branch that his late father had put up in the rafters of his barn for some reason, it sat there untouched for over 20 years. Cut off about 6 inches from either end to get past the checking, the rest of the little log was nice dry hard maple (he wanted me to turn some candle holders for him)
 
Gerald Rutledge said:
Does anyone simply rip a slot in the log from one side down into the pith? Like halfway splitting it... viewed from the end of the log, it looks like a Pac Man with his mouth closed.
Click to expand...
it won’t reliably stop radial cracks
If you look at the diagram on the lower right. 95929202-5352-4214-B372-E79D8D9BD70F.jpeg

a slice would just reduce the circumference of the growth ring by a1/2”
each growth ring wants to shrink more than the growth ring inside so it opens up.
a half log or a rough turned bowl often does not crack because the outer rings can open more than the inner ring.
this wood movement leaves a peak in the half log or in the dried bowl
 
My 68 yo back doesn't like lifting heavy logs any more so ripping them into half makes them manageable. I have found taking out the pith isn't that much more work, but lining up the cuts helps. I use a level and yardstick to mark vertical lines on each end that include the pith, now it is easy to match up the kerfs from each end and roll it over to finish the cut, even if the log exceeds my 18" bar.. Your mileage may vary.
 
Darryn Achall said:
I only own a chainsaw. There are a lot of videos out there about using a bandsaw to make turning blanks. I cut the log to length with chainsaw. Cut the length in half. Then trim off the corners to make a relative circular shape. Rounding into a blank ready to turn is done on the lathe with a 5/8" bowl gouge.
Click to expand...
What do you use to hold and stabilize the log while cutting it in half?
 
Well, you opened a can a worms with that question.

Processing a felled tree is a skill set, as is felling a tree, as is turning something from it all. It is laborious and time consuming. It can be dangerous - study up on proper saw use and cutting downed trees.

99.9% of what I mount are chainsawed blanks. A bandsaw is a luxury.

There are many “saw buck” designs out there and Im sure folks will mention and link to them. There are many ways to do it.

A couple of the moderators here have good presentations on how to cut a log up.
 
Lewis Elliott said:
What do you use to hold and stabilize the log while cutting it in half?
Click to expand...
I use gravity and a notch in a log section. the chain saw is not going to move a heavy log section.
crotches hold really well in a notch.

DD6F94B2-137F-4C3E-8773-8DD174DAC93F.png0C007F3D-9E2D-4B9E-8684-A4D3647EBC5E.jpeg
I never worry about the saw moving a 10” diameter log section that is16” in length
shorter Lengths and smaller diameters can be cut if you are experienced.
 
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Personally, I feel a chainsaw is safer than a bandsaw for rough wood and partial logs. I do use my bandsaw occasionally, but mostly I prep wood for turning with a chainsaw.
 
A abundance of good information and fairly consistent. I'll add a couple of things.
1) To make sizing templates you can use 1/4" material like masonite or 1/2" osb. Start with drilling a small hole to hold a nail. Then measure from the nail to 1/2" larger than the bowl size (ie: 12" bowl make your template 12 1/2"). Tie a string around the nail out to you mark. Put a pencil inside the string on your mark and run it around the nail. You should now be looking at a completed circle that you can either bandsaw out or use a jig saw. Where the nail hole it drill out with 1/4" drill bit. You can now use the 1/4" hole as a means to hold it on a 1/2 log, I use a center punch to hold the template in place. Trace around the temple with a magic marker. You now have where the center of the blank is, by your center punch hole, to use for a screw in your chuck to rough turn or as a guide for your preferred method. You also have a guide to either bandsaw around the line or chainsaw around the line. Use the 1/4" hole to store your templates in your shop. I have these templates in sizes 7", 10", 12", 14", 16", 18" and 20 " bowl size.

2) If you belong to a club or have woodturning friends near you ask one to come over or go to them and process a log. Make sure they are experienced enough to give you a good foundation to work from.
 
I process logs using only a chain saw. Split in half down the pith, knock the corners off, then rough turn or core to make blanks, or turn to final thickness for NE bowls. I find it as fast and more pleasant to turn the pith off than make two chain saw cuts to eliminate it, plus the pith area provides wood for either a tenon or faceplate screws without getting into the most useable wood.
In my hands no amount of end treatment seems to prevent checks, dealing with new logs promptly seems to be the only answer. Leaving the wood in 6-8 ft sections until you're ready for them also works if you can move them.
 
I consider a chain saw to be essential for bowl turning. I keep my logs whole and on and under tarps, and under a western red cedar tree for more shade protection. I cut off chunks as I need them. I look over each section before cutting, mostly to figure out what will get me the most bowls out of each log section. I did make a Chainsaw Chopsaw video, and that worked very well. Since I got my 16 inch bandsaw, I don't use it as much. I prefer to lay out a center line for cutting with a level for a plumb line. I lay out cuts from the center line with strips of 1/4 inch plywood, cut in 1/2 inch increments from 1 to 8 inches. The chainsaw will take a 1/2 inch kerf with each cut. I do put wedges under the log to keep it from rolling as I cut. I cut the outside parts off first, then make the rest of the cuts about 90% through, then roll the log over and cut the rest of the way through. Some times this cut will leave a ridge which needs to be removed. This can be done with an axe or the chainsaw. As long as your chain is sharp, and your bar is not worn, it isn't too difficult to get blanks flat enough to cut in circles on your bandsaw if you have one. Oh, I do make cut marks on the far side of the log section so I can make some what parallel cuts. I do have videos up about doing this.

If you don't have a chainsaw, and/or don't want to get one, if you are part of a club, most of them have wood gathering parties. Sweat equity is always welcomed.

robo hippy
 
I hesitated to add to this but there are several videos on YouTube going from tree to bowl and several with only parts of that . I will echo the advise you received will get you thru. A note Best results to turn wood ASAP after felling and that failing then the blank prep as you have been advised. Just remember "there is no ONE correct way"
 
I have used a pallet sometimes, but mostly I'll throw a couple other logs on the ground and lay the piece I'm cutting over/between them. When I roughly cut corners off of a blank, those little wedges are also handy for stabilizing a log. I usually keep a few in my sawing area, but out of the way. (they can be ankle twisters) A pile of wood chips can work well too.
I cut up a burl a couple weeks ago. My pole barn has a metal roof that had just shed about a foot of snow from the week before. There was a big long pile in front of my shop. I dropped the burl on top of this deep pile and it settled into place. It was deep enough that sawing thru was only hitting snow and ice.
 
hockenbery said:
1. Always check the sawn face of the log for structural defects that might cause the blank to separate when turning.
Sections of rot, bark inclusions ( bark is about like air in strength), ring chairs (often hard to see on a chainsaw face are s Separation of growth rings), cracks…..

a bandsaw is real useful but not essential. Beginners find turning a disc much easier than rounding a cornered blank.
cut toward the head stock when rounding it will go much better.

@Dean Center had a succinct recap of the process.
a few pictures might help

View attachment 51594View attachment 51593
Click to expand...
I’ve tried This works on smaller logs but I found it not very stable on 16” and larger. Plus I need more stability on cutting corners
thanks
 
If I can lift them, I put the logs on my sawhorse for ripping. Whenever I can I take the sawhorse to the logs. It has three legs, which means it is stable on uneven ground. I nip off the corners on top of the offcuts and noodles on the ground.

20221003_153556.jpg​
 
Does anyone simply use a log splitter for "ripping"? I understand it would offer less control, but I am having trouble locating ripping chains for my petite 14" Makita saw. Crosscutting is not a problem, but ripping is a real pain, and using the wrong chain puts a lot of undue stress and fatigue on the bar.

I don't own a band saw, and my shop is so small, space is more of a concern than funding, so I may never get one (as nice as the prospect is).

I could easily convert a bottle jack to a log splitter, or devise something similar. I have access to a family member who is a welder, so that is in my favor too. It doesn't seem like a big deal to have a split face, versus a sawn face, since that will get evened out or turned away in any event. Big splinters will be monitored and removed prior to ramping up the lathe speed, of course.

I think it would improve the time to process logs, but it seems like I am not the first one to have thought of this, and yet I don't see anyone else saying they do it this way.
 
Quite a few folks use splitting for spindle blanks. Most use something like a froe.
The advantage for spindle turners is straight grain blanks. Sawing often gets offline with the grain and you end up turning on the bias - smooth cut on one side - raised and torn grain on the other side.

Splitting for bowls or hollow-forms doesn’t work well. Too much waste, uneven surfaces, secondary splits


Ripping with the log on its side should not tax your saw any more than cross cutting. I have ripped quite a few pieces with my little 14” electric Poulin.
Just work slowly to let the chips clear.
The long shavings from ripping tend to clog in some saw more than others
This is how I rip a crotch
IMG_2022-12-19-181856.png
 
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I don't have any trouble doing rip cuts with the oem chain on my electric 16" Craftsman. I don't understand the comment that ripping puts more stress and fatigue on the bar. Perhaps you are forcing the cut vs letting the saw do the work.
 
If you try to cut a log in half cutting across endgrain, it's slow and nasty. If you lay the log on its side, and lead your cut on the near side with the root of your bar, your chain is cutting downhill with the grain. Leading with the tip on the far side is still better than cutting across a cross section, but still not as easy. You're cutting uphill into the grain and depending on the angle, you run the risk of having it grab the log. Standing over a log on the ground, leading with the tip feels like the natural way to go, but put the log up higher and/or squat/kneel to make your cut.
 
I have a cutting stand I made many years ago and use it to split rounds and then flatten the round side of the two halved for my tenon. Every angle cut on stand is 45 degrees and works exceptionally well.
 

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