Do you prefer to hold the sandpaper in your hand, use a drill motor, or a combination of the two?
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...when sanding bowls
- Thread starter John Grace
- Start date
Use both of those methods, as well as a drill press to sand bowls. Also have been known to use a 5" RO sander on bowls.
I use a small drill motor, thick soft pad and circular discs (2" and 3'). I minimize spinning the piece and just holding paper to it until I get to 320 or 400 and even then seldom spin the lathe and sand with sheet paper. Too easy to leave circular scratches that will show or create uneven surfaces from end grain to side grain.
I frequently alternate between drill and holding it in my hand. I find that by switching as I move up in grit size, it is easier to remove the sanding marks left by the previous method. Also, for hand sanding, I use a closed-cell piece of foam about 7/16 inch thick to help equalize the pressure and avoid the heat.
Outside, 5" random orbit sander. Inside, a cheap harbor freight pneumatic angle grinder with 2" pads. Will occasionally do by hand but not often. Always have dust collector hose or *box* sucking pretty close to where I'm sanding.
I used to only use a cheap craftsman drill, but have started doing some hand sanding because I had some problems with circles in the grain
I power sand the first two grits then use a stick with a Velcro pad to go through the rest. I usually start at 120.
Holding abrasive in you hand is the slowest way you can sand a bowl, plus the worst way to limit sanding scratches. I only rough sand with a drill on the lathe, then go to 5" random orbit on the outside and 3" random orbit on the inside.
I never hand sand bowls... I always power sand.
If an area needs additional sanding because of residual tearout I go back a grit level or two and power sand again.
I slow the lathe speed down a tad towards the finer grits.
I use a dedicated power sanding pad and mandrel for each grit I use.
All grits last at least a few bowls and some grits (especially the finer ones) are still going after many bowls. I usually start at #150 or #180 and those are the ones that get replaced more often.
Here is my power sanding rig. It's light in the hand and quiet on the ears...
If an area needs additional sanding because of residual tearout I go back a grit level or two and power sand again.
I slow the lathe speed down a tad towards the finer grits.
I use a dedicated power sanding pad and mandrel for each grit I use.
All grits last at least a few bowls and some grits (especially the finer ones) are still going after many bowls. I usually start at #150 or #180 and those are the ones that get replaced more often.
Here is my power sanding rig. It's light in the hand and quiet on the ears...
Not much hand sanding. Also depends on whether its a 2-turn very round piece or 1-turn warped piece, which may preclude using lathe speed (depends how slow your lathe can go). Very rarely do I hand sand with the lathe not turning.
I use 2” dia mandrels and interface pads, with 2-3/8” discs, on all size turnings. Too cheap to invest in another size, and the 2” gets the job done. Typically use an electric “close quarter” drill with the lowest grit required to get everything cleaned up - lowest grit can vary from 100 to 240.
I then use an electric ros, same 2” pads and dics, starting at ~180 gr, up to highest grit. Its an $80 polisher for auto work.
Air tools work but use a LOT of air - up to the user whether air or electric power is used.
Very important in sanding is keeping speeds down - heat is the enemy. Power sanding tools need a way to vary, and consistently hold, speed. I use a HF router speed control to run power through, so I dont have to try to control the tool trigger to obtain desired speed. Air tools can use a regulator to do the same.
I use 2” dia mandrels and interface pads, with 2-3/8” discs, on all size turnings. Too cheap to invest in another size, and the 2” gets the job done. Typically use an electric “close quarter” drill with the lowest grit required to get everything cleaned up - lowest grit can vary from 100 to 240.
I then use an electric ros, same 2” pads and dics, starting at ~180 gr, up to highest grit. Its an $80 polisher for auto work.
Air tools work but use a LOT of air - up to the user whether air or electric power is used.
Very important in sanding is keeping speeds down - heat is the enemy. Power sanding tools need a way to vary, and consistently hold, speed. I use a HF router speed control to run power through, so I dont have to try to control the tool trigger to obtain desired speed. Air tools can use a regulator to do the same.
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I hand sand any details (beads, grooves,etc) on hollow forms and Bowls on the lathe to 320.
Cut rim bowls i power sand to 320.
Hollowforms and natural edge bowls: I sand off the lathe after they have dried. I use a makita 90 degree drill with Velcro pads.
Variable speed paddle is easy to set the speed by sliding my little finger under the paddle as a speed stop.
I spot sand with 180, then 220 and 320. Off the lathe I can keep the disc going mostly with the grain.
After the first coat of finish I hand sand with 400.
Then between finish coats i sand with the grey scotch brite.
After the last finish coat I often use the Beal buff Tripoli & white diamond abrasive then carnuba wax.
Cut rim bowls i power sand to 320.
Hollowforms and natural edge bowls: I sand off the lathe after they have dried. I use a makita 90 degree drill with Velcro pads.
Variable speed paddle is easy to set the speed by sliding my little finger under the paddle as a speed stop.
I spot sand with 180, then 220 and 320. Off the lathe I can keep the disc going mostly with the grain.
After the first coat of finish I hand sand with 400.
Then between finish coats i sand with the grey scotch brite.
After the last finish coat I often use the Beal buff Tripoli & white diamond abrasive then carnuba wax.
I use a Skilton Passive Sander with New Wave 2” sanding discs. Its small and easy to maneuver inside and outside bowls and vessels. The hook and loop discs come in 80x - 800x grit and are quick to change. From Lee Valley Tools.
My mate Tim Skilton will be pleased that his passive sanders are being used far and wide...
