When to stabilize punky wood

[Bob Uhle]

I have rough turned some maple which is pretty punky in spots. Have tried stabilizing prior to second turning with PC wood stabilizer but I seem to be turning through the stabilized portion. Thought I would try using a thinned epoxy resin after the second turning and then sanding smooth. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Do not want to go the vacuum route. I know I could finish it as is with character, but would like to have a smoother finish

 

[Gary Beasley]

I would turn it to within a quarter to a eighth inch of finished thickness then use the penetrating stabilizing finishes. Have to leave just enough to clean up the tearout.

 

[Bob Uhle]

I like this idea. So a 10 inch bowl, rough turn to 1 inch, then dry and second turn to maybe half inch, stabilize and then final turn to my final 3/8 inch thickness. I have tried the PC wood stabilizer, but results are ? Any thoughts on thinned epoxy as stabilizer?

 

[hockenbery]

What I do on slightly punky wood is
I first try wetting the surface with water this often swells the fibers and yields a better cut.
if that doesn’t work I used a 1 pound cut of shellac ( 2x the alchohol) this penetrates and fills the spaces between the fibers and give a better cut. Thin lacquer can do similar. The shellac and thin lacquer dry it a few minutes.

I find a pull cut with an Ellsworth ground gouge gives the best surface.

Another coat of thin shellac
Then shear scrape if it improves the surface.

 

[Alex Bradley]

My dad was known for his epoxy finishing technique and would use it to stabilize punky/soft wood. I am attaching two documents of his. One goes into detail for his epoxy finishing. Hope these help. Good luck!

 

[Bob Uhle]

My dad was known for his epoxy finishing technique and would use it to stabilize punky/soft wood. I am attaching two documents of his. One goes into detail for his epoxy finishing. Hope these help. Good luck!

Thanks for sharing this. I love that your Dad wrote out his techniques and thoughts on this. Used it as a guide on a very punky spalted maple bowl today. Worked well on the outer surface but I turned too deep on the inner side past where the epoxy stabilization ended. Definitely a learning curve. Hopefully will get this right in the next couple of bowls. Love the challenge of this beautiful, but punky wood.

 

[Alex Bradley]

Thanks for sharing this. I love that your Dad wrote out his techniques and thoughts on this. Used it as a guide on a very punky spalted maple bowl today. Worked well on the outer surface but I turned too deep on the inner side past where the epoxy stabilization ended. Definitely a learning curve. Hopefully will get this right in the next couple of bowls. Love the challenge of this beautiful, but punky wood.

Glad it worked at least partially. What epoxy did you use?

 

[Bob Uhle]

Glad it worked at least partially. What epoxy did you use?

I used a 10 min epoxy. I get impatient sometimes. Figured it would set longer when thinned. Probably need to stick with a longer setting epoxy so it penetrates deeper!

 

[Alan Weinberg]

will read and thank you! Does dad have other reviews/suggestions?

 

[Randy Anderson]

I've used shellac and two part epoxy before but recently been using Minwax wood hardener. Easy to find at local HW stores, cures quickly enough to work with on small or large areas and seems to really soak in but not create a mess. I don't try to stabilize after the first turn for twice turned pieces. Like Gary, on the second turn I try to get close to finish shape and thickness then apply the hardener/stabilizer. Then very light, careful, sharp tool cuts to get to final. I may go back more times in specific areas with the stabilizer as needed. It can vary but often a NR scraper on punky areas that have been treated can produce a smooth surface.