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Thanks for sharing the D-Way video RH. I really shows how well the tool cuts/slicesLong edge up, whether it has a second short edge (as in the original post), or only one long edge as with the D-way.
FWIW, on the D-way site there is a link to a video done by Dave where he discusses and demonstrates his parting tool -- he uses it with the long edge up
That is the way mine came. I was shown to sharpen it at an angle from the bottom.I hold mine like the first picture- shorter edge up. But my narrow parting tool doesn't have the second bevel on the bottom, like the one in the picture. The bottom edge on mine is straight
Yes, I use the Easy Wood parting tool primarily. While I don't have a lot of hands on experience using other types of parting tools the EW has performed well for me compared to what I've seen others do with their parting tools.Has anyone tried the Easy Woods Parting Tool? It has a 1/8 inch wide carbide cutting bit that can be replaced. The carbide bit cuts very well and the tool is well made but my experience with the tool has resulted in a number of catches as I try to get to too small a diameter before parting the wood with a hand saw. Any other experiences out there?
Just thinking out loud, but I have used the parting tool with the motor off and rotating the lathe spindle by hand when the situation was "fussy". Wouldn't do if there was a lot of wood to remove, but a thought anyway.I do a lot of off-center work, so I find myself extending the parting tool pretty far into the turned item to part it when I put it back on center. That's probably the leading cause of the catches I occasionally incur.
Odie, I like your logic '... the distance from the tool rest to the cutting edge is greater.' This follows my experience for getting a catch with a parting tool. It usually occurs when my cutting tool is extended the most from the tool rest and I am trying to get that final amount removed. I generally finish the parting process with a saw so that I'm not surprised when the parted element takes off. That said, I am guilty of trying to get the diameter of the parting area down to a minimum, at which time the little voice is telling me ' watch out, you are going to get a catch!'I've been using the fluted Nick Cook parting tool. It works well for me, but I'm using it upside down from the stock photo, so I suppose I'm using it incorrectly, from the perspective of the maker, Sorby.
For my use, the flute goes up.
In my opinion, this parting tool is much more sensitive to a catch, if it's used as shown in the photo.....and, that would be because the distance from the tool rest to the cutting edge is greater.
It might be quite a long time before the ground portion crosses over to the mid point of the tool......I may reverse the tool, at that point.
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I keep thinking about adding the second, short bevel. This narrow parting tool is probably 20-30 years old. It originally had a plastic sleeve for the handle. I finally added wood scales to it for a better grip last year.That is the way mine came. I was shown to sharpen it at an angle from the bottom.
over time(many years) the short bevel gets too long the I grind the long bevel to bring the short on wher I want it.