
That does make a lot of sense Richard… I’ll have to ask him what type he used. Appreciate the commentMy guess is that he used satin and the satin flattening agent wasn't thoroughly mixed in. But since you didn't give that data, as I say, just a guess. Lacquer can blush from trapping moisture under the finish, but wipe on poly sets up slow enough that is not an issue.
Hi Aaron. The system for making bowls like this is called a Ring Master. It’s an interesting set up. It’s not a lathe.Unrelated to your question, but there is a guy local to me who turns bowls just like the one in your pic: BoardstoBowls. We mostly sell our wares in different venues so I've only met him once and didn't ask, but if you look at the link you will see numerous variations on that straight, outward-flared wall design with that plug in the flat bottom. Not really my taste, as I am all about chasing that elusive perfect curve; I am just curious about the technique. Is it started from the bottom on a screw chuck and then the hole is plugged?
I don't get it. When I use a screw chuck as I usually do with platters, I screw it onto the top of the blank, finish the bottom, then chuck it into the recess to turn out all evidence of the hole, but different strokes for different folks, I guess. Anybody want to weigh in on this technique?
I remember getting some cloudy stuff like that when I tried to wipe on oil in very humid conditions, so residual moisture could definitely be the culprit.
edit to add: I've turned my share of padauk (even though I hate its noxious orange dust!), and I've never had an issue with it taking a TruOil finish (which is basically a wiping varnish). I'm pretty sure it's not the wood.
Thank you, I will pass this on the my Club mate.I have a Ring Master for my lathe (16"). They are supposed the have a hole in the bottom piece (as that is how it is held), But thanks to my good friend Jim Danbury my Ring Master bowls no longer have a hole in the bottom that has to be plugged. Jim used a 1 3/8" expanding collet chuck from Penn State Industries. It came with a 1 3/8" Forstner bit. You drill a 1 3/8" hole about a 1/4" deep and expand the collet into it. It has worked flawlessly for me. The bad part is that Penn State Industries no longer sells these (as I would love a backup).
I personally don’t know… I haven’t worked with Padauk yet. Anyone else know more about this speciesI've had that issue with padauk. Nothing else.
I applied linseed oil and wax to it. It seems like the wax almost precipitates back out? Is padauk oily?
I have been having a similar issue with a small padauk turning I made. I haven't applied any finish yet, but it's getting a white haze. It wipes off easily, and like you said always seems to return. I was hoping that finish would resolve the issue. Sounds like from other responses, the finish would not be the solution.I have two planks of Padauk in my shop . One is what we would call normal but the other has that white film. You can wipe it off but it does come back. This is unfinished wood. So from this I would say it has nothing to do with finish but is simply oxidation.
I personally don’t know… I haven’t worked with Padauk yet. Anyone else know more about this species