White Powder Finish

[Mark Gallagher]

I finished this just before year end. It is Padauk (6 X 3 blank). It has been sitting inside our townhouse since and has developed this white powder on the finish. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark

 

[Mark Gallagher]

Apologies. I finished it with Linseed Oil and wax.

 

[robo hippy]

First guess is it needs another coat of finish. I think that may be bleed through or bleed out.

robo hippy

 

[Michael Anderson]

Interesting. I’ve experienced that one time. This piece in my album. The small egg is Granadillo (specifically Mexican Rosewood, I’m almost certain). I finished it with hemp oil. Over time it develops a white film that wipes away easily. I suspect that it’s the natural oils of the wood reacting with the hemp oil. If that’s not it, I’m not sure. Annoying, but it’s a piece that will likely stay with me, so not a huge deal.

 

[Mark Gallagher]

First guess is it needs another coat of finish. I think that may be bleed through or bleed out.

robo hippy

Thanks robo, I'll try a few more coats.

 

[Mark Gallagher]

Interesting. I’ve experienced that one time. This piece in my album. The small egg is Granadillo (specifically Mexican Rosewood, I’m almost certain). I finished it with hemp oil. Over time it develops a white film that wipes away easily. I suspect that it’s the natural oils of the wood reacting with the hemp oil. If that’s not it, I’m not sure. Annoying, but it’s a piece that will likely stay with me, so not a huge deal.

Thanks Michael, it does wipe off easily and this piece will stay with us so not a big deal. I'm going to try a few more coats to see if that will seal it.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I have one plank of Padauk , no finish , that hazes over . Have a second and it does not haze. So here is the explanation :
A "haze" on padauk wood is typically caused by oxidation, where the natural oils in the wood react with oxygen in the air, creating a dulling effect on the surface, often appearing as a slightly cloudy film; this is a common characteristic of padauk and can be exacerbated by improper finishing techniques or exposure to moisture.

How to manage padauk haze:

• Proper sanding:
  Ensure a thorough sanding process before finishing to remove any surface irregularities that could trap finish and cause haze.
  
  
• Choose the right finish:
  Opt for a high-quality finish specifically designed for oily woods, like polyurethane or varnish with good penetration capabilities.
  
  
• Apply multiple coats:
  Applying thin coats of finish with proper drying time between each layer can help create a good barrier against oxidation.
  
  
• Consider pre-treating:
  Some woodworkers use a pre-treatment like a wood conditioner to help even out the absorption of finish on the wood.

 

[Mark Gallagher]

I have one plank of Padauk , no finish , that hazes over . Have a second and it does not haze. So here is the explanation :
A "haze" on padauk wood is typically caused by oxidation, where the natural oils in the wood react with oxygen in the air, creating a dulling effect on the surface, often appearing as a slightly cloudy film; this is a common characteristic of padauk and can be exacerbated by improper finishing techniques or exposure to moisture.

How to manage padauk haze:

• Proper sanding:
  Ensure a thorough sanding process before finishing to remove any surface irregularities that could trap finish and cause haze.
  
  
• Choose the right finish:
  Opt for a high-quality finish specifically designed for oily woods, like polyurethane or varnish with good penetration capabilities.
  
  
• Apply multiple coats:
  Applying thin coats of finish with proper drying time between each layer can help create a good barrier against oxidation.
  
  
• Consider pre-treating:
  Some woodworkers use a pre-treatment like a wood conditioner to help even out the absorption of finish on the wood.

Thanks Gerald, That's great info. I'll start to pay attention to the characteristics of the wood I'm turning. The learning never ends but it is quite a journey.

 

[Dean Center]

Gerald, Do you think it would help to wipe the surface with alcohol prior to applying finish to remove the surface oils?

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

All I know is what is in the article . I have not tried poly because this was a thin plank and I use in modified segmenting

 

[John Dillon]

Strange. I finished a Bubinga bowl last spring and I put no other finish on it except used the Beall buffing system with carnauba wax only. I had it sanded to 2,000 and it was like glass so decided to just wax it.

Anyway, I almost never use wax on anything, but decided to try it. 6 months later, the surface had a white opaque film on it (looks like yours @Mark Gallagher ), but the underside was still like the day it was waxed. I took some mineral spirits and it seemed to remove the white film in the bowl. I oiled the bowl (Walnut Oil) and left the bottton alone (with wax). Still looks fine, just deepened the wood tone. I don't think I'm using wax for something this nice again. Had to be a reaction with the sun hitting the wax (I assume). I could scratch the white film with my fingernail and it was definitley the wax.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I recommend wiping the surface with naptha (better solvent faster evap) or mineral spirits, but dna will work. Then apply poly thinned 1:1, keep it wet for 15-20 min, then wipe off - similar to how you probably applied the oil. The harder solids in poly will seal the natural oils.