Welcome to the world of tear out. When turning face plate work, or flat grain (as opposed to end grain which is more like sharpening a pencil) you are cutting down hill (with the grain) for 1/4 of a revolution, then uphill for 1/4, then down hill, and again back to the beginning and down hill. There is usually the same tear out pattern 180 degrees away from the tear out you are showing. When cutting against the grain, the cuts tend to be rougher, and show tear out. Tear out tends to be worse in dry wood than in green wood. Woods that are punky or soft will tear out more than good solid wood. Some woods will tear out no matter what you do. Figured wood will tend to tear out more than straight grained woods. It is manageable.
First, you need sharp tools, and fresh off the grinder.
Second, you need very light cuts when you are trying to get a finished surface.
Third, a shear angle with the tool more on its side will cut cleaner than a scraping cut. With a swept back gouge, you drop your handle, and do a very light pull cut without rubbing the bevel. Scrapers can clean it up fine, if it is held at a 45 or so degree angle, and not flat on the tool rest. Use a round nose, or inside (swept back to the left) and work on the lower part of the scraper, not above the center line of the tool.
Also, when the wood is really bad, you can wet it with water or finish. Let it soak in a bit, then very gently make several very light passes to cut away the wet wood. In extreme cases, you may have to wet it a couple of times.
robo hippy