Wolverine Grinding Jig Setup Question - Vari-Grind

[John Pace]

I have just purchased the Wolverine Grinding setup, it included the Vari-grind attachment. I have it mounted with my Baldor 632E.

If I am using the Vari-grind for my bowl, roughing, and spindle gouges, is there a need to keep the vee-arm at its 28” length? Is there a reason why I would need it that long? The bench I am planning on using it on is 23” deep – so about 5” of overhang, not optimal.

Am I missing something? If I am only using the basket/cradle for the var-grind for my gouges and the flat platform for skews, scrapers, and parting tools…

 

[Kent Jaffrey]

I cut the length of mine down and haven’t missed the extra length. I sharpen my skews and spindle roughing gouges on the platform as you mention so the extra length just got in the way.

 

[John Pace]

I cut the length of mine down and haven’t missed the extra length. I sharpen my skews and spindle roughing gouges on the platform as you mention so the extra length just got in the way.

Thank you! How short did you cut it? I also have a welder, so I can add it back if needed!

 

[Russell Nugent]

Sharpening the roughing gouge in the v arm always seems sketchy, so I sharpen mine on the platform. Skews too. Not sure what length I cut mine to but it barely sticks out the back when I'm set up to the length I want for the varigrind. I did that because I use the space behind my grinder so I got tired of moving stuff around to put the v arm in.

 

[Brian Gustin]

I agree with the rest, I'd say set a spindle gouge in your varigrind and then adjust to where you think it might give like a 30 degree bevel angle , which is about as small as I'd ever imagine a gouge sharpened to, then mark your vee arm behind grinder to allow about 2 inches or so more (if you ever need it it'd be there) and if that gives you short enough of vee arm, then I'd cut it there.

I actually think I should do the same on mine - after trying it to sharpen my SRG that way, It just seems too sketchy to me, as well, so I just do my SRG on the platform, so the extra length is no longer needed.

 

[Dennis J Gooding]

I have just purchased the Wolverine Grinding setup, it included the Vari-grind attachment. I have it mounted with my Baldor 632E.

If I am using the Vari-grind for my bowl, roughing, and spindle gouges, is there a need to keep the vee-arm at its 28” length? Is there a reason why I would need it that long? The bench I am planning on using it on is 23” deep – so about 5” of overhang, not optimal.

Am I missing something? If I am only using the basket/cradle for the var-grind for my gouges and the flat platform for skews, scrapers, and parting tools…

Seems to me you can just pick the longest gouge among your tools, mount it, and cut off the overhang, leaving only some small margin for error or future longer gouges.

 

[Dave Bunge]

I cut the arm of mine for the same reason...to reduce overhang and make it easier to stash my grinder cart out of the way.

Craft Supplies will sell you a replacement for about $25 if you ever decide you need the long one again.

 

[robo hippy]

I have been using platforms for my sharpening for 15 or so years, can't remember. I did take one look at the long arm and just said NO! I would never use it for the SRG (spindle roughing gouge), or a skew. The platform works FAR better for those tools. I do have a Varigrind set up in my shop, some where....

robo hippy

 

[John K Jordan]

The long arm is supposed for sharpening skews with handles (with the little skew attachment) and for spindle roughing gouges with handles. I think it’s dangerous.

I think I have 4 wolverine mounts and several platforms besides the varigrind jig. I cut the insanely long arm down to a reasonable size for several reasons, one, I never used it long, and another, to fit better on my sharpening bench. I don’t remember the size but I could measure.

BTW, I use the varigrind only for bowl gouges and the platforms for everything else except for spindle gouges (Tormek for those). Beside the big rectangular platform that I think comes with the wolverine, there is another much smaller platform that has a curved front edge - I think it is more useful than the bigger rectangular one which I seldom use anymore.

I have two of the Mini platforms:

Amazon.com

JKJ

 

[John Pace]

Thank you all! I had not thought of that, but 2 of my gouges do not fit the Vari-Grind. I decided to buy an extra vee-arm so I can cut one shorter and still have a long one if needed.

Russell N: I played with my longest gouge tonight, grinder not on, just testing and it does seem sketchy. I had not thought of the possibility of a catch...

I am looking at the "Right Angle" jig that fits the Wolverine mount. Mike Waldt seems to like it. Thoughts? (rightanglenow.com)

I have ordered an extra vee-arm from Highland Woodworking. Oneway seemed to be out of stock @ $24 – Highland had it for $25 – Beware of Amazon knock-offs - $75!

John K - no need to measure I will cut mine to fit what I have, and I ordered another vee-arm just in case I need it.

 

[Dean Center]

The only reason for the length of the v arm from the factory is for putting the butt end of SRGs in the pocket of the v arm to sharpen, along with maybe continental style spindle gouges. As mentioned above, this is a really poor method. There is NO good reason not to shorten it. I would shorten it to the length your bench depth allows it to go fully into the mounting bracket. That gets it out of the way while preventing over-shortening.

 

[Richard Coers]

Sharpening the roughing gouge in the v arm always seems sketchy, so I sharpen mine on the platform. Skews too. Not sure what length I cut mine to but it barely sticks out the back when I'm set up to the length I want for the varigrind. I did that because I use the space behind my grinder so I got tired of moving stuff around to put the v arm in.

It's only sketchy if you get close to the center of the wheel. I don't come even close, so nothing sketchy about it in my shop.

 

[Richard Coers]

The only reason for the length of the v arm from the factory is for putting the butt end of SRGs in the pocket of the v arm to sharpen, along with maybe continental style spindle gouges. As mentioned above, this is a really poor method. There is NO good reason not to shorten it. I would shorten it to the length your bench depth allows it to go fully into the mounting bracket. That gets it out of the way while preventing over-shortening.

The arm has been fine with my techniques since the day Oneway started selling them. You just need the correct technique, and proper sharpening skills to make it work.

 

[Russell Nugent]

It's only sketchy if you get close to the center of the wheel. I don't come even close, so nothing sketchy about it in my shop.

Congratulations

 

[John K Jordan]

Some years back there was a discussion on another forum about using the Wolverine V-arm to sharpen SRGs. I remember at least one report of a disaster when someone tried to sharpen a spindle roughing gouge with the existing bevel such that trying to sharpen it put the cutting edge too low on the wheel. The wheel was a conventional wheel, not a CBN. Their geometry was such that the edge dug into the wheel. I suspect the flexibility of the extended arm contributed to the accident. IIRC the wheel and the tool were damaged but the person was not hurt. I don’t remember if the Wolverine base or arm was damaged.

Fortunately roughing gouges are easily sharpened with the platform.

BTW, the skew sharpening attachment for the Wolverine also uses an extended arm. Putting the end of the handle first in one pocket then the other, swinging cutting end of the tool left and right puts a gentle curve on the edge. I use the flat platform for all my skews.

Wolverine Skew Attachment

Check out the deal on Wolverine Skew Attachment at Packard Woodworks: The Woodturner's Source

www.packardwoodworks.com

(If anyone wants mine they can have it, if I haven’t already tossed it.)

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

For whatever it's worth, I use the Verigrind for my bowl gouges and spindle gouges. The Verigrind positioning is kind of dumb with their notches instead of plainly drawn lines or some other method. I put the arm on the 4th notch for fingernail, and Irish grinds. I use the 1st notch for spindle gouges. Those two settings get me what I need without moving the V arm. Everything else is done on the platform. I don't move the platform when sharpening SRG et al, so those get sharpened with 80 grit rather than the 320 I use for gouges.