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Wood-Cut Coring problems

I've never used the Woodcut but as for keeping chips clear, I wonder if the same thing I use when drilling deep holes with a Forstner bit would work: I have a thin nozzle on my air line and while drilling I direct a constant stream of air into the hole behind the bit. This not only blows out all the chips as they are created, but keeps the bit a little cooler. Would that work in the groove when coring?

JKJ
When drilling holes 48” long for floor lamps I use gun barrel drill bits that are hollow so coolant and lubricant can be pumped through them but instead use compressed air to blow the chips out
 
I have used the original woodcut system several times now. Much of what has been stated already, I have found to be true. The tenon benefits from being large and robust, but more importantly the chuck needs to be mounted correctly with no gaps. I had one large solid tenon shear off, because I didn't exercise proper care in fitting it to the chuck. I saw a youtube video which suggested making the initial entry into the wood wider so as to allow chips to exit easier. That suggestion made all the difference for me. I have been keeping my cutting tip sharp with a diamond card. I have not yet added the negative rake. Overall, I like the system very much.
 
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