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Work height for lathe?

John Torchick

John Torchick

Joined
Jan 24, 2010
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Cleveland, Tennessee
I just received my new Rikon today.:D I was considering using the base only from my old HF 34706 lathe but not sure if it will be too high. What is the rule-of-thumb for work height? Thanks!
 
The rule of thumb is the center height should be at the height of your elbow with your arm bent. Then adjust from there. Many people like the center a little lower for bowls and higher for spindles.
 
Flexed elbow's a place to start. With the natural slant on the palm and the average handle length, it allows a comfortable cut at centerline. Convex work cuts above center by a bit to prevent catches, while hollowing bowls seems fine with the tool cutting center or below, so it won't accidentally hook wood as the interior diameter decreases. I have mine at the level of the antecubital fossa - the elbow pit, if you will, rather than the end of the ulna. Where you define the elbow, don't know.

Pretty much depends on how you work. Would like to remind you that the lathe elevates a lot easier by inserting blocks under the mounts or the legs, than it lowers by trimming down below. Start low!
 
antecubital fossa - the elbow pit, if you will, rather than the end of the ulna.
Click to expand...
Big words but I get your drift. Thanks. I'll do some checking on dimensions for the elbow, tool height, base height and decide.
 
John,
The most important height is one in which you work with good posture.
Back straight not bent over. Or on tip toes.

Simple starting point: Stand erect grab your right shoulder with your right hand the bottom of your Elbow is now well defined.

If you do mostly spindles a little lower may be you choice if you work mostly on the top of the spindles as many spindle turners do.

If you do mostly hollowing with an arm brace handle you would want the lathe Higher.

Have fun,
Al
 
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hockenbery said:
..... grab your right shoulder with your right hand the bottom of your Elbow is now well defined......
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What if I can't grab my right shoulder with my right hand? :D And ... what if I am a southpaw?

MM's suggestion leaves no ambiguity, but I also agree that is just a starting point. Posture and comfort are also very important and can cause the ideal height to vary from one individual to another even if their initial anatomical measurements are the same.

Fortunately, I am still reasonably flexible so I have turned from spindle heights ranging from about a foot off the floor (my mini lathe on the floor when I didn't have a table) up to a Powermatic 3520 with the legs on six inch risers (lathe belonging to a very tall friend). It does help to have a good kneeling pad if turning at ground level or be limber enough to sit cross legged (I could but then I would never be able to get up on my own if I sat there for a while).
 
John Torchick said:
Big words but I get your drift. Thanks. I'll do some checking on dimensions for the elbow, tool height, base height and decide.
Click to expand...

The medic calls it by the anatomical name. Anyway, two-two and a half above the lowest part of the joint when flexed is a good start. Latin lovers will note it as the ditch before the cubit measure. Get some use out of those four years of academics.

When you shake hands with the tool handle, you'll find a natural angle to the palm/wrist. Don't use a height that causes you to take an unnatural angle on the wrist for bowl work, where you might be digging hard.
 
John,

Some good suggestions thus far except the start low. You'll probably be like most and eventually turn hollow forms, bowls, bottle stoppers and etc. To me start a little higher. It is much easier to build a platform and move it than move the lathe up and down. If your like most you will be standing on a concrete floor which after awhile is hard on the feet, knees and back even with a pad of some sort. A platform built from 2 x 3's or 2 x 4's and 1/2" osb is so much easier on the joints especially with a pad (make large enough for comfort but it does not have to be 4' x 8'). I found for me a 2 x 3 platform is the perfect adjustment for the heights I need. If you want to get really fancy you can even ramp it so you don't step off an edge, which you won't do because of muscle memory after you use the platform for a short bit. Have fun with the new toy.

Dale
 
I measured with the lathe mounted on the old HF base. It is a bit high but I can build a platform or ramp to stand on. Then I can adjust to whatever I'm turning. Thanks to all for your advice. I'm always impressed by the willingness of the forum members to help.
BTW, I have a house payment coming up.:p
 
I forgot to mention one other idea. I have my Jet mini sitting on a Harbor Freight hydraulic cart. It is a rock solid and well made tool that has turned to be far more useful than I ever imagined. In addition to that, the height can be adjusted to suit almost any woodturner.
 
Remember to plan for a nice anti-fatigue mat. That will take about 3/4 of an inch or more and you will thank yourself in the long run.
 
JRutten said:
Remember to plan for a nice anti-fatigue mat. That will take about 3/4 of an inch or more and you will thank yourself in the long run.
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The anti-fatigue mat is an absolute necessity, IMO.......:D

It should be understood that the best working height for a lathe spindle is a working range, and not an exact number. MM's formula fits my bent elbow to my spindle height, and it works for me. However, we are all individuals, with individual turning styles and bodies. The best spindle height for one person may not be the best for another person of the exact same height.

Like most things, start with the generally accepted thinking.......then adjust to your individual requirements. By not understanding the individualistic application to the generalized theory, and how it applies, only assures a greater margin of error for any one person........

ooc
 
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My back is trash. Any bending and it flat hurts. My spindle is nipple high. I use wood platforms for when I am doing spindle work or when doing hollow form insides. I also have rubber mats. My shoulders complain a bit but I tell them calm down compared to my back. As a full time turner standing straight is what I have to do. It does take a bit of getting used to having the work in your face. But if your lathe is low to start with? My wood platforms only have outside support so I get a bit of bounce while standing in the center. The doc who worked on my back in 89 was the one who told me to raise my lathe and use platforms. He said he worked on me for more than five hours. He said he uses platforms when needed but his number one thing was to be comfortable. I thought it sound advise.
 
back issues too

KellyDunn said:
My back is trash. Any bending and it flat hurts. My spindle is nipple high. I use wood platforms for when I am doing spindle work or when doing hollow form insides. I also have rubber mats. My shoulders complain a bit but I tell them calm down compared to my back. As a full time turner standing straight is what I have to do. It does take a bit of getting used to having the work in your face. But if your lathe is low to start with? My wood platforms only have outside support so I get a bit of bounce while standing in the center. The doc who worked on my back in 89 was the one who told me to raise my lathe and use platforms. He said he worked on me for more than five hours. He said he uses platforms when needed but his number one thing was to be comfortable. I thought it sound advise.
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I have back issues too. I think my surgeons have put a couple kids through college off of my back and I saw some world cruise brochures last time I was in their office. Anyway, for me trying to hollow a deep small vessel like a goblet the spindle just above the bottom of the elbow had my back bent substantially, not good!

I will be raising my lathe and will give some thought to making it easily height adjustable according to the task. I think I will set up to primarily hollow outboard too, get the tailstock and bench out the way. Yesterday I climbed up on the bench to work! Two hundred and thirty or forty pounds of meat, bones, and flab adds substantial dampening to a work bench. :D

Hu
 
Bill Boehme said:
I forgot to mention one other idea. I have my Jet mini sitting on a Harbor Freight hydraulic cart. It is a rock solid and well made tool that has turned to be far more useful than I ever imagined. In addition to that, the height can be adjusted to suit almost any woodturner.
Click to expand...

Which version of the hydraulic cart, the 170lb or the 90lb? Did you bolt the lathe on as well?
 
I like a bit higher for spindle work. My HF 12 x 34 lathe is on it's stand and then the stand is on a 2x4 frame with casters which raises it another 4 or 5 inches. For the time being, I need to be able to move the lathe, and can roll it out under the first floor porch deck on nice days. I have a second identical lathe and it seemed too low as it came from the factory, so I put that on casters too. .
 
Andy Holden said:
Which version of the hydraulic cart, the 170lb or the 90lb? Did you bolt the lathe on as well?
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HF is in a continuous state of changing the models so what I bought about seven years ago doesn't match what is available today, but it was the heavier of the two choices that were available back then. My Jet mini is fastened to a piece of plywood and there is a thin rubber sheet between the plywood and table. If necessary I could clamp the plywood to the table, but I haven't ever needed to do that.
 
The hydraulic cart idea is neat, but I think it wouldn't be heavy duty enough to be the base for bigger lathe like a Nova 1624. Any other ideas on how to make an adjustable base?
 
An easy adjustable base would be some short lengths of all-thread with feet or some long bolts double nutted on the base of the lathe. You can easily loosen the nuts and raise or lower the lathe by adjusting them and level the lathe at the same time.
 
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