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Yet another chuck recommendation thread

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Morning,

I'm refurbishing an old Delta 1640 lathe and am looking for chuck recommendations for it. I believe that it's got a 10" swing, but am not at the house to measure it. Spindle size is 1" x 8. The outboard end of the spindle has LH threads at the same pitch. I've been using a wood river chuck w/ tommy bars on my old rikon midi lathe, and would like something different this time.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
 
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The Oneway Talon is a good size for that lathe and will serve you well if/when you upgrade to a larger lathe. Recommend avoiding the Nova G3. Price point is attractive, but the size limitations can be aggravating.
 
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With the 1x8 thread pitch you have plenty of options to choose from eBay might serve up a good deal if you snipe a used one at a good price.
I have also picked up woodworking equipment and tools off of CraigsList at a decent price.
 
Joined
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Not sure about other chuck/inserts, but Oneway has 1"-8tpi inserts threaded for right and left hand threads.
You had mentioned L/H outboard thread so just thought I'd throw that into the decision making mix.
 
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The Oneway Talon is a good size for that lathe and will serve you well if/when you upgrade to a larger lathe. Recommend avoiding the Nova G3. Price point is attractive, but the size limitations can be aggravating.

@jamie - can you elaborate on what you mean by size limitations? I've been using a G3 for a year (first chuck) and want to know why I should be aggravated. Don't want to miss out on anything.
 
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Thanks for the recommendations. Christmas is just around the corner. maybe Mrs. Claus will bring me one. :D
 
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Oneway is the only chuck I know of with inserts threaded for both left and rt hand, in the same insert. In this situation, with 1x8 threads on both spindle ends, it would seem to be a “no brainer”. I really like, and use, Oneway chucks, but they are pricey (chucks and jaws). There are cheaper, more than adequate chucks available, but in your situation a Oneway just makes sense.
 
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Dow - Keep in mind that everyone (including me) usually likes what they have. That's why they bought it. So, examine all feedback for some objective/technical inputs that may guide your decision.

Also, don't go cheap. You will likely regret it. I went cheap on my first drill press and bandsaw. After a few years use with limitations on what I could do with these tools, I sold both and purchased more robust versions of both. - John
 
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Oneway is the only chuck I know of with inserts threaded for both left and rt hand, in the same insert. In this situation, with 1x8 threads on both spindle ends, it would seem to be a “no brainer”. I really like, and use, Oneway chucks, but they are pricey (chucks and jaws). There are cheaper, more than adequate chucks available, but in your situation a Oneway just makes sense.
I think Nova also makes one but hard to find
 
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If you will ever upgrade to a larger lathe in the future, I would recommend getting a chuck with an insert. That way, when you upgrade lathes, you only have to buy a new $20 chuck insert instead of a $200 chuck. Nova, Record Power, Vicmark, Oneway all make good chucks.
 
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Thanks for all of the great advice. I ordered a Record Power SC4. Should be here in plenty of time for Christmas.
 
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@jamie - can you elaborate on what you mean by size limitations? I've been using a G3 for a year (first chuck) and want to know why I should be aggravated. Don't want to miss out on anything.
Where I was most frustrated (several years ago) was the maximum opening when Cole jaws were attached. Seemed very small compared to other chuck assemblies. So the only option would have been to buy their extenders. I've had a vacuum chuck since 2018 and Cole jaws for the Talon, and no memory of exact measurements for the G3.

At BARN, we've had some trouble with the G3 getting stuck or "sticky", though that could be more due to users not blowing the sawdust out after use. I've toyed with selling mine, but decided to buy tower jaws for it instead, so that when I need them the Talon doesn't need to be dismantled from #2 jaws.
 
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I too am looking for my first chuck(s) to go with a Harvey T40. I'm having a little trouble navigating the options, but I think I know what I like. I might end up getting a larger lathe, maybe in 200 years, but certainly not any time soon. This lathe has a 14" swing, but [according to the marketing hype that I fell for] it is over-built enough to consider it a small full-size lathe. So for these two reasons I am targeting larger chucks that are intended for full size lathes ( >= 16" ).

Is it a mistake to put a large chuck like a Oneway Stronghold or VM120 on a Harvey T40? I understand the flywheel effect from a more massive chuck "always helps" and I know why, but there is no free lunch and I don't want to burn up my bearings prematurely with too much of a good thing. The lathe uses a 6205 P6-2RZ bearing on the rear of the spindle and two 6206 P6-2RZ bearings in front. These are 2" and 2.5" diameter bearings respectively, but I have no machine engineering background and no idea what load they can reasonably bear. Spinning heavy things on the end of the spindle axis is the whole point, but every machine has limits. Can these bearings handle an 8 lb chuck without too much extra wear on the bearings (define "too much", right)? If I am asking for too much spoon-feed, where would I go to find out the answer for myself?

Other primary preferences are a proper chuck key (don't get me started on hex wrenches and fasteners that all want to be round stock when they grow up), the "best" way of gunk management (open back vs closed), but the size -- and by extension the mass -- of the chuck is my starting point. Well, not having a long female-to-male spindle adapter for a puny chuck is the first consideration, but larger chucks will avoid that implicitly.

Thanks
 
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You would have no problem with the Stronghold. Any of the chucks in that class would work on that lathe. As far as the eight pound Stronghold, that's marketing. They say "about" eight pounds... I have four strongholds, the two not in use, with #2 jaws, one with a 1x8 insert, the other with a 1 1/4x8 weigh 6.8 Lb and 6.6 respectively.
I think range/style of jaws, hex vs geared key, righty tighty vs righty loosy, open back vs closed would be the things to consider. Again, the fit and finish of the top chucks are fairly close. As far as the Stronghold with the 1x8 insert, yes I was using it on a jet mini (small boxes) with no issues...
Don't stress, pull the trigger, go turn, have fun... :)
 
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OK, thanks. All validates my accurate, inexperienced opinions, and wanted to make sure I wasn't just totally blinded by the marketing -- everyone makes the best lathe, ya know... if you ask *them*.

I am leaning heavily toward a Stronghold, and may eventually get a Talon when a smaller diameter is needed for access. That, like probably a lot of things, will likely come much sooner than I expect (and can afford). I'll just have to be creative for a while, and if that fails I can simply refrain from turning a piece that needs a smaller chuck until I have one.
 
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Size the chuck and jaws to the work not the lathe. That said, a heavier chuck does not add much loading to the bearings, it actually stresses the drive system more to spin it up and stop it if you have dynamic braking. A big heavy wet unbalanced blank overwhelms the added loads of a heavy chuck in terms of drive and bearing loads, so dont be concerned.

Vicmark, Axminster, and Oneway are about as good as it gets for chucks. People have varying opinions on jaw grip types, jaw type availability, open or closed backs, chuck key drive type. And its just that - opinion/preferences. Any one of the 3 is as good as the other 2.

I went with Oneway for 2 reasons - I prefer their “profiled” jaw design, and they are a bit lower cost vs the other 2 especially when you start adding up the chuck and base jaws, and another 3 or 4 sets of jaws.

You might jump the Talon size and go smaller for a 2nd chuck, for access and to hold small dia tenons/recesses.
 
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One of the biggest draws to OW chucks is simply the number of recommendations I am seeing (with the key style I favor; sorry Vicmarc). Others get props too, no doubt I probably can't go wrong with several alternatives even in the next pricing tier, but I've burned through almost my entire startup budget at this point so I am looking for a single chuck that is guaranteed to be free of any buyer's remorse and offers the best long-term value. I cannot claim that the Stronghold is or is not such a chuck, but I see nothing but praise, and a lot of it. In this case it is not mfr hype, it is user hype, which is far more valuable.

I haven't entirely ruled out a Supernova Chuck. Anyone have advice there? I could get approximately two Nova chuck bodies and a wider range of jaws for the price of a single Stronghold body with two jaw sets. That is compelling, since I am "broke" now, but might be more expensive in the long run. Not saying Nova is "cheap" and they get praise too, but generally speaking, cheap tools are the most expensive tools you can buy.
 
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I'll have to throw in a vote for axminster. I have two of the 114's and they are top notch and very stout. I have two SN2 (nova) and they are well made and strong.
 
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I have had a Stronghold for more than 10 years. It has, as my grandfather would have said, "done nobly". Seems to be indestructible. I have a number of jaw sets. One thing to keep in mind is that Stronghold and Talon jaws are not interchangeable, unlike some other brands. I do not have a Talon as a result. I have Nova G3 and SN2 chucks -- they work well and the jaws are interchangeable. I prefer the SN2 to the G3, and the Stronghold over both but it is too large for some of the work I do. I have limited experience with Axminster but am impressed.
 
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I have a Nova G3, as well as several PSI Barracuda, as well as the OW SH. Havent looked at the supernova chuck, but a distinct negative with the G3 is the amount of jaw adjustment closed to open - it is appreciably less than the similar size Barracuda and if memory serves less than a Talon. I also dont like the Nova jaw type availability, but thats opinion.

Doesnt matter to “perfect circle” folks, those who use tenons only at the perfect circle size aand change jaws to accommodate larger tenons.

As mentioned I prefer OW profile jaw design, which maintains grip force throughout the jaw adjustment range, which has proven to me through experience using them that the grip level is more than enough. This starts getting into dovetail vs serrated vs profiled jaw design, which is really the 1st decision to make since it helps limit the choices.

You may need to buy more jaw sets with an sn2 to have the same tenon ( recess) size coverage as an OW chuck. Tables are available from both mfrs to make the comparison.
 
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Does anyone have any feed back on the Easy, or what ever they are called, chucks, the ones with the quick change jaws? I know they had a few problems when they first came out, and then they were new and improved, but they seldom come up in threads....

robo hippy
 
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I too am looking for my first chuck(s) to go with a Harvey T40.

Can these bearings handle an 8 lb chuck without too much extra wear on the bearings (define "too much", right)?

the "best" way of gunk management
Gerald, you're going to hang a 20 or 30 pound chunk of wood on the lathe. It can handle the chuck.

As for open back vs. closed back, I would say that's not a very important issue for you at this point. Don't put any greasy crap in there to catch and hold dust, blow it out with some air or brush it out periodically, and you're good for at least 20 years.
 
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I had a Baracuda and did not care for it as it did slip and needed to be retightened regularly. I have 4 SN2 and have no problems with them . My oldest is maybe 14 years old. Did have to take one apart and clean it as it was just not turning right. No problem since that was done. I do not know for sure on the new chucks but for all of mine the 100mm is the only one with dovetail both inside and outside, all others are doved only on the expansion mode with compression a straight tenon. One advantage with the insert vs direct thread is you only need to change the adapter to use on a larger lathe.
 
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Does anyone have any feed back on the Easy, or what ever they are called, chucks, the ones with the quick change jaws? I know they had a few problems when they first came out, and then they were new and improved, but they seldom come up in threads....

robo hippy
I hate...I repeat, HATE changing chuck jaws and, as a result, I had acquired 3-SuperNova2's and 1-G3 chuck and, I was on the verge of buying yet another SN2 in order to put a set of Cole Jaws on them. Instead of that, I decided to invest in the Easy Wood chuck and several of their jaw sets definitely more expensive than the SN2 but, my plan is to sell most of my other chucks eventually.
Each of the chuck jaws were a little stiff to install for the first time but, after that first installation, I have to say that the jaws are super easy and smooth to remove and install, and they're incredibly stable and secure. On top of that, the "zoom ring" is a nice feature to have, and the back is well sealed. Overall, the fit and finish is great and I have to say, I'm really happy with the purchase.
 
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Dean, it is not lost on me that those extra three or four pounds for a large chuck pale in comparison to the stress of roughing an unbalanced 20-pound piece. I figure a more massive chuck will always add a certain ratio of wear and tear; as I said there is no free lunch. I could have been more succinct with the question and asked if the extra wear and tear from adding any extra mass to the spindle would be a linear ratio, which I expect and can live with, or if there was something unknown to me (and so much is, you know) that would cause more of an exponential effect.

It is not linear, however, it is actually two curves since the extra kilo of mass would be there the whole time the chuck is in use, while the unbalanced 20-pounder only spends a portion of its time in that state, and ought to become a better-balanced 16-pound piece right away. If your point is that I'm splitting hairs, then yes, probably, but I didn't know that for sure when I asked. :) So I might have been surprised to learn that the benefits of the flywheel forces due to the extra mass (including the intangible extra safety it may add) is orders of magnitude greater than the constant wear from the extra mass, so much so that not only would a larger chuck not hurt the lathe, it actually adds life to the bearings in the long run. I dunno, but it sound like I shouldn't worry about the constant wear from the extra mass. "Don't worry about it" works for me.

Gerald, one thing I have been looking at is whether the chuck is one of the few that are available in "native" 1.25"x8tpi format or uses an insert like most do. I liked the T40 because it already has a large spindle and move-up issues are not as great, if they ever arise at all. All other things being equal, to my mind there is more advantage to the native threaded design, since it removes an intervening part and all of the subtle inaccuracy and potential failure points that accompany each additional component in a system. If I have to use a spindle adapter later, that's fine perhaps, but I would like to have that be the exception, not the rule. I realize I might not get my wishes granted on this one, but it would easily break a tie for first place.

Seth, I am really diggin' the Easy Wood chuck now, in spite of the auto-panic that Robo Hippy set off with the "p" word. What I hate, hate, hate, specifically are set screws and that dumbest of all fastener engagement methods: the hex socket and key. It find it a bit oxymoronic (like jumbo shrimp, or "large Midi") that they would abolish the evil eight set screws and then turn around and use a hex socket and key for the final jaw tightening. My drill chuck is keyless, so what's the problem with going keyless on these chucks? I am looking at all of the vendors here, not just Easy Wood. I have to assume there is a good reason nobody has a hand-tightened 4-jaw chuck. But, but, how often will I change jaws? That, I do not know, and there's the rub,since I don't know that yet. I might spend the next year doing 700 8" bowls and never needing anything but #2-esque jaws.

I think I could get past the hex socket for the jaw change advantage of Easy Wood, although here again, I will be tightening the jaws far more often than changing them. The price of a C2000 stings rather much; I don't have a per-item budget, I have a global one where I skimped on disposable or more easily replaceable items like chisels and grinder wheels to pay for higher-end big ticket items like the lathe, grinder, and a starter chuck. That budget is nearly exhausted, and Easy asks for a pretty big premium even over the other high-end chucks -- they want my vari-grind and a hundred bucks instead of me just buying a OW or similar. So, how much is my time worth? I didn't dive into this whole thing to waste time fiddling around and cross-threading set screws. The little video of the jaw change with the chuck on the lathe is really enticing, though. Over a long period, even if I value my time very little, the chuck pays for itself, premium and all. I am looking at the jaw options now but I am having a little trouble finding the jaw sets for sale, but I am sure they're out there.

I should probably start compiling a list of things I like and do not. Unfortunately I will have some time to do this before making my decision. I don't really have any time to even scratch myself, with my current life obligations and still needing to outfit the shop, build a bench for the lathe and all of that. This somehow gives me a sad period of time before I get to turn anything.

These are all very useful answers, thanks for chiming in.
 

Dave Landers

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I'll throw in my $0.02 here, without even mentioning which chuck I like/dislike, etc.

You should just stop analyzing and get a chuck that fits your budget, with a standard-sized (around 2" or so) set of jaws. It really doesn't matter which of the "good" chuck brands (i.e. one of the recommendations above) you get. Just get one so you can start using it.

Chances are, in a year or three, you will discover that you need other jaws or another chuck or something. At that time, you will also know, by experience, what really matters to you and can make a more informed (personal) choice. Chucks hold their value pretty well, and as you can tell from above, there's plenty of market for any brand. (I will say that they also hold their value pretty well on your shelf/wall/drawer - chucks to a turner are sort of like clamps to a flat-worker - you can never have too many).

My current favorite chucks are not the brand I started with, because I figured out what I wanted different. But when I got my first chuck, it was the very best thing in my shop. Today, I don't particularly like that chuck, but I still have it and still use it sometimes.
 
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I worry often about the bearings in my Powermtic 3520A lathe, as I do things like chiseling off bark while the rough blank is mounted on the lathe. The lathe is 20 years old and the original bearings work fine. Once again, I may be the guy who jumped off the Empire State Building, but the bearings seem to tolerate anything I come up with. The continuous load for which they are designed is probably not going to be an issue for you in the near term.

You're a good thinker, Gerald, and I'd very much enjoy a conversation with you over an adult beverage. Maybe Reed (Robo Hippy) would join us.
 
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Hey Gerald,
You and I are right on the same page with hating to fiddle with set screws but, the hex socket and key is not as bad as you would think; especially on the Easy Wood chuck. Both the EWT chuck and SuperNova2's use a hex key for tightening but, in my opinion, the EWT key has several improvements over the SN2.
The 8mm hex key that comes with the SN2 has a ball design on the end of it, with the intention that you don't need to have straight 90deg engagement in order to be able to spin the adjustment. Now, as a heavy equipment mechanic by trade, I really like the ball ends on hex keys in principle, simply because of how handy they are. However, after having my SN2's for 2 years, I've come to the conclusion that a chuck key is not the best place for a ball end hex.

The 5/16" EWT chuck key has two significant advantages in my book: 1. It is a straight hex key; no ball on the end. 2. the handle of the key is wider and heavier. I keep a magnetic strip on my headstock to keep my chuck key handy and after I purchased the EWT chuck, the 5/16" hex key that comes with it, is pretty much all I use for both my EWT chuck and the SN2's. The heavier, wider handle of the EWT chuck key makes it much easier to open and close my SN2's quickly just by spinning the shaft of the key between my fingers. Of course, the same can be done with the EWT chuck but, it has that "zoom ring" that makes it so easy to quickly open and close the chuck anyway.

To your question about "what is wrong with going keyless on these chucks?" the issues are material, diameter, weight, and application force. Consider the following factors:
- In your keyless drill chuck, you're talking about gripping a metal shaft that could be anywhere from 1/16"-1/2" diameter. It is much easier to hold something small in diameter than the tenon of a 20lb bowl blank.
- The metal shaft of that drill bit doesn't give when you clamp down on it like a wooden tenon or mortise will.
- As you step up in drill bit sizes, the torsional forces applied to the drill bit will be greater. Thus, the better quality drill bits have flats that help with proper engagement of the drill chuck "fingers". Certainly, we all have experienced the frustration of trying to keep a drill chuck tight on a larger bit that doesn't have flats.
- The application forces that a drill chuck and lathe chuck are expected to withstand are different as well. By and large, a drill chuck is designed to grip and transfer torsional force to a bit, and overcome any resistance to that torsional force from the material that it is cutting. A lathe chuck is designed to not only grip and transfer torsional force to the piece of wood but, also withstand the force of a gouge being presented to the wood from the side.

I guess all of that is to say that the reason a drill chuck can be made keyless is because you're holding something relatively small. As the work is scaled up, the compounded torque that a chuck key affords you is necessary in order to safely hold the work.


I apologize if my rambling above gets a little muddy, I hope it made sense. LOL!


Ultimately, chucks are a lot like turning tools, lathes, finishing products....heck, even car manufacturers for that matter! Folks find what works best for them, what they've had the best experience with, and that's what they tend to stick with.
I think that Dave Landers probably gave you the best advice you could get when it comes to this topic: get the best chuck that you can afford. Any of the reputable brands will serve you just fine and, as you gain experience, you'll learn what you like and don't like, and what chuck best fits your preferences.
 
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Thanks again, and yes, Dave, your opinion has wisdom and that is what usually end up doing anyway since I am not a lotto millionaire, or any other kind of millionaire. There is no doubt that I will get more stuff later, including multiple chucks, with growing experience. I am trying to delay that as long as I can, but I know it will happen. So it makes perfect sense to spend $250 now for something perfectly servicable that will go in the library, and hold on to 250 for the next one, or for when I learn exactly why I need a vari-grind jig to go with my wolverine (i already have a pretty good idea, i think). At minimum, I really just want to avoid buying a piece of junk, and at best was looking for tge best value or the most flexibility, and there is no right answer, which was stated WAAAAY up at the top of this thread. But we managed to still pack it full of useful info for me and the other newbies.

Dean, I am always up for an adult beverage with decent people. Thanks for all the advice and/or pity.

And thanks, Seth, for pointing out the lateral forces on a lathe chuck (once it is pointed out, well, yeah, duh...) and the differences in duty between the two. I don't mind the info overload at all, I wrlcome it. Besides, not everyone could even grip a 4"+ chuck the same way pretty much everyone can grip a drill chuck, but I didn't think of that either before I blurted out the question.
 
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Gerald, one thing I have been looking at is whether the chuck is one of the few that are available in "native" 1.25"x8tpi format or uses an insert like most do. I liked the T40 because it already has a large spindle and move-up issues are not as great, if they ever arise at all. All other things being equal, to my mind there is more advantage to the native threaded design, since it removes an intervening part and all of the subtle inaccuracy and potential failure points that accompany each additional component in a system. If I have to use a spindle adapter later, that's fine perhaps, but I would like to have that be the exception, not the rule. I realize I might not get my wishes granted on this one, but it would easily break a tie for first place.
One note on having an adapter vs direct thread : adapter has a place to use wrench to remove chuck from spindle. I would rather use this to remove chuck vs a bar in jaws I have to use with the direct thread G3 I have. By the way remember this is wood lathe and not metal so tolerances are not that tight on work done.
 
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All other things being equal, to my mind there is more advantage to the native threaded design, since it removes an intervening part and all of the subtle inaccuracy and potential failure points that accompany each additional component in a system. If I have to use a spindle adapter later, that's fine perhaps,
In case you havent noticed Oneway chucks require an insert - there are no “native” sizes. I’m not sure if they are alone with their insert design. It is not threaded in - it is a press fit design accomplished with 2 bolts, which are also used to remove the insert.

Other chuck brands I have use threaded inserts. Even the much cheaper psi barracuda chucks run pretty true with psi inserts. Any slight runout in the stack up of insert, chuck, slides, jaws, and varying amounts of wood depression on the tenon is accounted for by always marking the work and reinserting it in the same orientation in the jaws. Really nothing to be worried about.
 
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I have had the Easy Chuck for about six months and am so glad I purchased it. Changing the jaws is so simple as there is no need to ensure a certain labeled jaw goes in a specific spot. Just push the jaw into the slot and click. It really is easy.
 
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I think Axminster makes an attractive package deal and nice chucks w/ stainless steel jaws and have a wide variety of jaws to choose from, as well.

I bought a Vicmarc VM120 when I got my full size lathe and it's far superior to the Nova G3, making it feel like a kids toy in comparison. I would run a VM100 on my smaller (1HP) lathe but not a 120.

Changing jaws isn't that big of a deal but the quick change feature does make the Easy Chuck tempting. I'm not sure they offer a wide variety of jaws.

I'd have no problem today investing in Vicmarc or Axminster chucks, and I'd consider Easy as well.

If budget were a significant factor then Record Power; then Nova would be next.

I want to mention chuck keys. I HATE the Nova chuck key system for the G3 and if it's not a Hex key style I don't want it. That rules out smaller Nova chucks and Oneway in my book. The Vicmarc chuck key system is excellent.
 
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I think Axminster makes an attractive package deal and nice chucks w/ stainless steel jaws and have a wide variety of jaws to choose from, as well.

I bought a Vicmarc VM120 when I got my full size lathe and it's far superior to the Nova G3, making it feel like a kids toy in comparison. I would run a VM100 on my smaller (1HP) lathe but not a 120.

Changing jaws isn't that big of a deal but the quick change feature does make the Easy Chuck tempting. I'm not sure they offer a wide variety of jaws.

I'd have no problem today investing in Vicmarc or Axminster chucks, and I'd consider Easy as well.

If budget were a significant factor then Record Power; then Nova would be next.

I want to mention chuck keys. I HATE the Nova chuck key system for the G3 and if it's not a Hex key style I don't want it. That rules out smaller Nova chucks and Oneway in my book. The Vicmarc chuck key system is excellent.
Allen,
I upgraded from Nova chucks, which I think are a good value for the money and have been using Axminster chucks for over 3 years. They are very well machined, stainless steel, fairly priced, and have a variety of jaws comparable to Vicmarc. (By the way, I own a Vicmarc lathe but prefer the Axminster chucks.) They are available in the US from Woodturners Store in New York, and a few other places. I prefer the SK114 (114 mm) chuck because it has quick change jaws. Changing jaws takes 2 minutes or less. I suppose one can argue that Easy Wood jaws are faster to change over. Unless you produce a wide variety of turnings (in volume) every week, a minute or so difference is irrelevant. Changing jaws with either chuck is faster than changing chucks. I believe the Axminster chucks may also be cheaper than Easy Wood. So in my opinion, the Axminster chucks are a top quality product, worthy of a turner’s attention.
Jon
 
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Allen, what is it about the gear keys that you HATE? (Are we just going to go all-caps with the H word from now on? It does have a certain internet charm.)

I might be able to relate: I HATE it when the gears wear down, so if that's what you are referring to, then I'm with you. On drill chucks, they are clumsy and having to crank all three pin holes triples the suffering. For me, though, nothing exceeds the aggravation of a rounded off hex bolt or wrench. They do this far sooner than carefully-used gear keys -- and who doesn't love a rounded-off set screw that is deeply set and still tightly engaged and virtually impossible to back out "just this one last time, pleeeeeease"?

But I think gear keys wear down on drill chucks more from being misaligned when cranked (three times per bit change, of course), and it is too easy to get it in crooked, or let it slip out a bit during the crank. Speaking from inexperience, I think the gear key in something like a stronghold chuck would align to the chuck gear much better since it has to pass through the larger hole on the outside of the chuck. I doubt it is the case, but my inexperience tells me that it might be harder to find the pin hole on the end; is your issue with gear keys perhaps coming from that extra fiddling? You only have to fiddle twice as hard on one hole as with three, though, so you'd still come out "ahead" of a three-pin drill chuck, right?

I am not vehemently opposed to a hex key, especially a larger one that I know will not round off as easily, and even more so when there is not a ball on the key that simply condones misalignment and consequent wear, but I simply prefer a gear key as the lesser of these two First World Problems. Still, has anyone heard of the gears or key on the geared chucks wearing out? I would not be too concerned if the keys do get worn with some regularity, but less comfortable with the idea of the chuck gear wearing out. It can also be replaced, sure, but it's a lot easier to get a new key, and a wise Grasshoppa will keep a spare on hand. For that matter, replacing the hex nut on a hex-style chuck could very well be easier than replacing the large gear in a chuck body. Speaking from inexperience, of course. :rolleyes:

< Cue the half-dozen kindly-phrased variations of "except for that one guy in New Zealand who turned a lot of sandstone on his lathe, the chuck gears don't wear out, and you're being really paranoid/over-thinking it again" responses. />
 
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