Zelkova wood

[Lou Jacobs]

I’ve come into a couple of pieces of Zelkova, an Asian ornamental. Sadly, the city arborist who cut the tree down didn’t understand my request and when I returned to get the wood, there were only two short sections instead of the six or eight he and the homeowner had promised me. These discs are between 5 and 10” in diameter. I’ve just finished generously coating the end grain with Anchorseal. In any case, I opened the pieces today and was very happy to see the beautiful color and figure in the grain. I wonder if anyone has experience with this wood, and if I can expect the rose and pink color to last, or will it behave like box elder and fade away to brown?

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

(Keyaki wood is valued in Japan and used often for furniture, such as tansu, as well as being considered the ideal wood for the creation of taiko drums.)
This quote is from the Wikipedia description of Zelkova but of course that does not answer your question.
The color looks great but I don't think it is similar to the red in boxelder since that is part of the early stages of rot and your samples look heathy. Hopefully some one will be familiar with it.

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

It being a Elm relative it should turn well, as for the color I've seen colors similar in Apple wood and I would expect these colors to fade to a browner shade, just hope I'm wrong.

It is another tree species that is endangered in the wild with only small areas where they still exist.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

It is another tree species that is endangered in the wild with only small areas where they still exist.

This was a suburban ornamental planted by the homeowner perhaps 30 years ago. The city ordered it removed as it’s roots were pushing the sidewalk up.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

I rough turned them today and am hoping (but not expecting) that the color doesn’t fade too much. It’s quite striking. We’ll see in 6-9 months I suppose.

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Sure would be nice if the color would stay like that, the Applewood I was referring to earlier had similar color but not as intense as your bowl, that color was gone really quick.

I do find your wall very thick, sometimes that is not good.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

Leo,
The picture may have distorted things a bit. The bowl is about 9” in diameter and I try to stick to the 10 % rule, so this is just under an inch thick. With something like ash, I don’t get as much movement, so will cut it a bit thinner, but being unfamiliar with this wood, I wanted to take no chances. Sounds like you think I’m taking a chance with it being too thick.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Wall t sounds right for 2-turn. The color should be there when you return and expose “new wood” that hasnt oxidized. A good finish and keeping out of direct sunlight may keep the color for a few years.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

Interesting point Doug. So probably a UV barrier finish would be most protective? Spar varnish? What other finishes provide UV filters? Anything that you’d want to have on a bowl to be used?

 

[Doug Freeman]

IMO dont look for UV barrier if the piece will not be in direct sun. I use plain mw poly thinned 1:1 applied like danish oil, or solvent lacquer sprayed to a fully filled finish. Both seem to seal the wood well and slow down color change. The better the wood is sealed the slower the change. Spar varnish is a good choice if you want uv. Another option is the dark base for exterior latex paint - it dries pretty clear and has uv barrier.

“Bowl to be used”? Depends on how used. If utensils will touch the surface, just walnut oil. For holding dry stuff (fruit, nuts, jewelry, whatever) pretty much any finish. IMO most all finishes are food safe once cured (not intended to resurrect that debate).