1-1/16" bits for drilling peppermills

[Roger Chandler]

I purchased a couple of deluxe peppermill mechanisms, and the instructions state that a 1-1/16" hole be drilled through the blank for the peppercorns and mechanism.

I have 2 sets of forstner bits, but neither have this size, the closest being 1" or 1-1/8". Is the 1-1/16" size critical to the mechanism operating correctly?

Also, I went to the hardware store this morning to look for this size, but they only had the same sizes I already have. Is this some special thing to make us purchase some unique tool? I have never turned a peppermill before, so this particular project makes me a newbie at this one.

Maybe some of you that are experienced with peppermills could lend a helping hand of advise to a fellow turner. I wanted to make a couple of gifts.

Is a bit extender needed also? one other question [well. 2], is a finish needed inside the hole that is bored in order to keep moisture out? If so, what is best to use for the inside finish of a peppermill?

 

[Robert Manning]

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=63566&cat=1,180,42240

I don't make peppermills, but you can also re-grind a 1 1/8" spade bit.

 

[Roger Chandler]

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=63566&cat=1,180,42240

I don't make peppermills, but you can also re-grind a 1 1/8" spade bit.

Thanks Robert,

I had wondered if a spade bit would do the job, but had not considered grinding one down to that size. I wonder if the spade bit will clear the chips out in a blank that needs to be drilled 9-3/4 inches deep?

 

[john lucas]

It's tricky regrinding a spade bit. I've made 2- one that's tapered for candlesticks and on that's a hair under 1" for another project. If you don't grind both sides the same you get chatter. I ground them as close as possible and then rigged up my router with a grinding bit. I put it on my router table that I use on the lathe. Made a jig to guide the router and I just had to make a pass or two down the bit- rotate it 180 degrees and do the same. That evened up both sides and the chatter went away.
If you use an air compressor to blow in the hole you can drill very deep with a spade bit.

 

[Gynia]

Ship Auger

You can get a ship auger in that size and length. Either drill a 3/8" pilot hole through the blank or file off the lead screw threads so the auger doesn't self feed.

These are easy to find and here is a link to one.

http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DW1688-16-Inch-17-Inch-Auger/dp/B00004RGZJ

Please note that there are less expensive sources for these auger bits.

You should get an auger bit file and keep up with the sharpness. Doing this will make the bit drill hundreds for deep holes. As with all deep drilling be sure to clear out the hole often.

The 1 1/16" diameter is critical for the part of the mill which contacts the mechanism. You can drill a 1" hole and then come back with with a spindle gouge, ring tool, hook tool or scraper to that depth which need to have the good fit.

 

[Roger Chandler]

Auger bit

You can get a ship auger in that size and length. Either drill a 3/8" pilot hole through the blank or file off the lead screw threads so the auger doesn't self feed.

These are easy to find and here is a link to one.

http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DW1688-16-Inch-17-Inch-Auger/dp/B00004RGZJ

Please note that there are less expensive sources for these auger bits.

You should get an auger bit file and keep up with the sharpness. Doing this will make the bit drill hundreds for deep holes. As with all deep drilling be sure to clear out the hole often.

The 1 1/16" diameter is critical for the part of the mill which contacts the mechanism. You can drill a 1" hole and then come back with with a spindle gouge, ring tool, hook tool or scraper to that depth which need to have the good fit.

Gynia,

Thanks for that information. The auger bit looks like it would definitely work, and would move the chips rather well. I guess the self-feeding point would need to be taken off, or a waste block or extra amount on the blank would be a must, as to not damage the chuck or spindle.

 

[Vernon Oberle]

Boremax bits

I use Boremax bits from woodcraft. They come in all the sizes not just the ones in regular sets. They also cut quick and clean.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Search/Search.aspx?query=boremax

Vernon

 

[Ken Ferrell]

I'm not sure about the quality of the bits, but a friend on another forum bought a 1-1/16th from this place and has done a couple of grinders with it, and it was under 8.00 which I thought was pretty inexpensive
.http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/forsbit.htm

 

[Bill Boehme]

A one-inch drill can be used and then the hole can be enlarged slightly with a spindle gouge.

 

[Bernie Weishapl]

I bought mine with a extension for long mills from Woodcraft. It is fairly critical to get the hole the right diameter.

 

[ThePenSmith]

Hello Roger,
I have made almost 2,000 peppermills in the last few years, I will glad to help you any way that I can. Lee Valley has great bits, that is the only brand that I use.

email me if you have any questions jim'at'thepensmith.com

 

[John King]

Buy The Bit

Buy the 1 1/16" forstner bit and move on. You won't regret it. They are not that expensive. They are avialble from most mail order houses - Craft Supplies, Packard, etc. Makes machining peppermills a breeze. In my opinion, the objective is to machine the interior as fast and efficiently as possible so work can begin on turning the outside. - John

 

[Joe Greiner]

Grizzly has Forstner bits from 1/4" to 2 1/8" in 1/16" increments. Full sets or individual. H2556 is 1 1/16", $7.25 in their paper catalog.

 

[Roger Chandler]

Thanks to all, great information

I appreciate all the responses of posters. Each one was helpful, and I will take up the wisdom and advice of those who are experienced with what is new to me.

Turners by and large are a great group of folks!

 

[Harvey Mushman]

Roger......Here is a link to Morris Wood Tool carbide boring bits that will make your life of making peppermills easier.....

http://www.morriswoodtool.com/Forstner-Bits-Multi-Spur-Boring-Bits.htm

I use these bits everyday. They drill much more accurate hole than forstner bits and won't heat up as easily. These boring bits will easily cut end grain, plus if you do glue-ups, you'll find that the bit does not dull like other non-carbide bits. While a little more expensive than most other bits with a similar purpose, they are still very affordable....BTW....I have yet to sharpen these boring bits.

Also look at Morris' spur bits.... These are my second choice....with Bore-Max being my third.

Cheers!
H.

 

[Bill Pottorf]

The 1 1/16" diameter need only be c bored to the depth of the grinding mill length, so a forstner bit is a good choice for this. The remainder of the hole is then bored out with a 1" diameter bit. I use a 1" brad point bit for that. Remember that the very bottom of the mill has to be counterbored 1 3/8" (if I recall correctly) to allow for a recess for the mill seat. So, all in all, you start with the largest diameter and proceed to the smallest diameter. Do not drill all the way through with the 1" diameter but reverse the direction and drill from the top down to keep the hole straight and centered in the mill. Hope this helps.

 

[Harvey Mushman]

Bill...That counterbore is 1 5/8

I just remembered that there are 2 different types of mecanisms that Chef Specialties sells. For some reason, over the years, I have received grinders with a flange and some without a flange.....Who knows!?!?!? I'll call the flanged mechanism type A and it required a 1 in bore. You then had to make a slightly tapered cut to the bottom of the bore to allow the retainer bar to properly fit. Type B does not have a flange and requires a 1 1/16 in bore. Since the retainer is of a stepped design no further hand work is necessary.

Hope this helps.

 

[Clint5699]

1- 1/16 drill bit

Hi Roger;

I have made many deluxe mills with a 1 in, drill thru the blank. It is necessary to have the 1-1/16 hole size for only about 1 inch up from the bottom. As Bill said earlier use a gouge or scraper to enlarge this area to fit the base of the mehanism and you will be good to go.

Good luck with your mills, hope this helps.

Clint