#3 Morse taper drill bit

[Donna Banfield]

I am in need of a larger diameter drill bit ( 3/4" inch or larger preferred) and want to mount it directly in my tailstock. My Jacobs chuck has unacceptable run-out. I use it very infrequently now (have used it 2 in the last 5-6 years) so really don't care to replace that. But I do need to drill holes around 3/4" and have them start dead center and remain there. I know that they exist, I just can't seem to find them. Anyone have a website/online store they can point me to? Struck out with Graingers. I have a Oneway 2436, and the tailstock is #3 more taper.

 

[Dwight R Rutherford]

Have you tried McMaster-Carr or MSC? Shars has one listed also.

3/4" 3MT HSS Taper Shank Drill

www.shars.com

 

[Mark Jundanian]

I found this at McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[Hugh]

MSC-Direct has them also.

 

[Keith Mombourquette]

I use mt2 drill bits with a mt3 to mt2 adapter and they work well. That might be an option for you.

 

[Glenn Lefley]

I use mt2 drill bits with a mt3 to mt2 adapter and they work well. That might be an option for you.

Definitely a cheaper option.

 

[Richard Coers]

$23.44

7/8" HSS 3MT Taper Shank Drill Bit

7/8" HSS 3MT Taper Shank Drill Bit. Find this item and other cutting tools on DrillsandCutters.com.

drillsandcutters.com

 

[Mike Johnson]

You could check with Shars they may still have several 3/4" MT3 drills that they were discontinuing.

Home

www.shars.com

 

[Dean Center]

You've gotten some useful responses. In case they don't solve the problem, machinists sometimes use humongous bits on Morse tapers. Maybe machine tool suppliers would be the place to check. I bet some of the folks on here know of and order from them.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Not what you are looking for but I use Forstner bits and get no runout

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

You would probably be cheaper in the long run to buy a genuine high quality Jacobs brand chuck with a #3 MT mandrel and then use carbide tipped Forstner bits.

 

[Richard Coers]

You've gotten some useful responses. In case they don't solve the problem, machinists sometimes use humongous bits on Morse tapers. Maybe machine tool suppliers would be the place to check. I bet some of the folks on here know of and order from them.

My first job at Caterpillar was next to some radial drills. They were running 3" twist drills to rough bore the front idler yoke for the track idler wheel. Those bits would really do some "talking", even with a huge line of coolant on them. Curls of cast iron the size I had never seen before. These radial drills were so big the operators had steps up to walk-ways to run them.

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

A 3/4" diameter bit with a #3 Morse taper is not going to be a free cutting drill in wood (tip cutting geometry will not be correct for wood). A #3 shank on a 3/4" bit implies heavy duty metal drilling and it's very likely to have a thick web that will not evacuate wood chips well. A thick web drill bit does not start well on a less than a flat surface or grainy wood without a spotting hole. It's a really bad choice for your application.

The best option is to get a good drill chuck mounted on a #3 Morse arbor. Then use any number of quality 1/2" shank bits designed for wood boring that will do your job without issues.

If you really insist on the #3 Morse shank bit my advice is to get a good quality bit (no import junk) and have the point reground to what's known as a split point with web thinning at the tip. That will be much easier starting on center in wood.

Just getting started on center does not guarantee the hole will remain on center. Without the correct tip geometry bits can follow grain. Following the grain does not mean the bit will bend, more likely the lathe chuck will not be able to hold the wood blank in alignment.

 

[hockenbery]

search for “ taper shank” bits.
with A #3 taper you can easily find bits up to 1,25” diameter
#2 tapers up to 1” diameter.

I use these bit to drill pilot hole in larger opening hollow forms.
one I use a lot is a 1 1/16 #3 taper.

https://www.grainger.com/category/machining/drilling-holemaking/drill-bits/drill-bits-for-metal-plastic/taper-shank-drill-bits

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

I use a little trick sharpening them that a machinist taught me
set the leading edge of the flute against the wheel on a platform lined up at the angle
to sharpen lightly touch the leading edge of the flute to the wheel and rotate the bit adding a tiny bit of pressure against the wheel. Repeat on the other flute. This make the cutting edge just a little proud.

 

[Glenn Lefley]

search for “ taper shank” bits.
with A #3 taper you can easily find bits up to 1,25” diameter
#2 tapers up to 1” diameter.

I use these bit to drill pilot hole in larger opening hollow forms.
one I use a lot is a 1 1/16 #3 taper.

https://www.grainger.com/category/machining/drilling-holemaking/drill-bits/drill-bits-for-metal-plastic/taper-shank-drill-bits

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

I use a little trick sharpening them that a machinist taught me
set the leading edge of the flute against the wheel on a platform lined up at the angle
to sharpen lightly touch the leading edge of the flute to the wheel and rotate the bit adding a tiny bit of pressure against the wheel. Repeat on the other flute. This make the cutting edge just a little proud.

it says to be only used on metal. it seems are not that good on following wood perfect , and chip ejection.

 

[Donna Banfield]

Thanks for all the recommendations. The drill chuck I had been using was a #2 mounted in a #3MT adapter sleeve, and that may be the reason for the run-out. It wasn't always this bad, but like I said, I had only used it a couple times in the last 5-6 years, and may not have remembered how poorly it performed. And now after 15 plus years it may just need to be replaced.

I have no problem spending money of quality equipment and machinery, because I only cry once - when I pay for it and not every time I have to use an inferior or poorly performing piece of equipment. So getting a true #3MT Jacobs Chuck is in my very near future.

 

[Hugh]

Donna,
Before you do any drilling on the lathe.......cut a small 60 degree cone shape dead center in the wood. Then the drill has a way to find center nicely.

 

[Donna Banfield]

Donna,
Before you do any drilling on the lathe.......cut a small 60 degree cone shape dead center in the wood. Then the drill has a way to find center nicely.

Thanks, Hugh. I tried that, with this particular Jacobs Chuck, and that didn't improve the drift. But I will utilize that tip going forward, and make it standard practice.

 

[john lucas]

What kind of drift are you having. The drill.may start on center but will follow the grain and wander off center. Your tailstock can also be twisted on bed. The centers may line up but if the tailstock is ot perfectly parallel to.the bed longer drill bits will not run true.

 

[Donna Banfield]

What kind of drift are you having. The drill.may start on center but will follow the grain and wander off center. Your tailstock can also be twisted on bed. The centers may line up but if the tailstock is ot perfectly parallel to.the bed longer drill bits will not run true.

John, I can see the drift beginning from the start. The Jacobs Chuck (which has a #2MT mounted in a #3MT sleeve) I suspect is the culprit. With less than a 1/2" in, the hole is almost oval. I have a couple of #3 MT drill bits arriving in a couple of days, and see if that doesn't solve my problem. Eventually I'll replace the Jacobs Chuck with a true #3 MT. The Oneway 2436 tailstock is pretty heavy and solid, has never been dropped, so I doubt that it is twisted on the bed.

 

[Mike Brazeau]

I use a MT3 to MT2 adapter frequently on my 2436. I have inexpensive regular Jacobs Chucks with both #2 and #3 tapers and a keyless with #2 so use the adapter. Also use the MT3 to MT2 adapter with a Penn State mandrel Saver with no issues. I have no evidence of any error due to adapters. They are precision machined pieces and I am amazed how inexpensive they are.

I find when drilling with a regular twist drill that starting the cut is always difficult and use brad point drills when I have them or Forstners. If spindle work I drill early and then use the 60 degree adapter from the Oneway live center to mount and make things concentric. The 1/4” 60 degree pilot drill bit that machinists use on metals in invaluable for starting precise drilling. Endgrain is always a problem with the differing hardness within the annular rings.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

To Hugh's point about a 60 degree starter hole, I wanted to mention drill point countersink bits. Donna, I'm not sure if the greater issue for you is hole roundness or exact positioning, but for me I need accurate positioning. I have found mine to be a big help in that regard, and I use it to start almost every hole.

My DPCB is a 1/8" drill point, a 60 degree cone and a 5/16" final diameter. The short 5/16 shaft is too stiff to be "distracted" by the "vagaries" of the wood grain and although the point is not particularly acute it is well defined, so easy to place precisely.

I use mine to start 1/8" holes, some of which are angled 30* (it excels at starting angled holes true). The 60* cone is good for a cone center (even though my cones are not all 60*) and it makes a good starter hole for a standard 5/16" bit if I'm mounting on my screw chuck.

A valuable piece of kit. Here's an example. I believe these are designed for use in metal, but work well in wood.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[Dennis Weiner]

Donna, I have a 2436 also.
I have a few oversized round-shanked 3/4" drill bits that are readily available online. Alternately, I use an inexpensive 3mt collet er32 chuck with a 3/4" collet in my tailstock. This works great. I prefer this method of holding over the Jacobs chuck if the drill shaft is round. Even the cheap collet chucks will run true enough for woodturning. You can find them on amazon or ebay or littlemachineshop etc. I already had a set of Shars er32 collets. I bought the chuck a few years ago for about 20 bucks. Like everyone else, I predrill with a center drill as well.


Good chatting with you again. Regards,

Dennis
HVWT.

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I am in need of a larger diameter drill bit ( 3/4" inch or larger preferred) and want to mount it directly in my tailstock. My Jacobs chuck has unacceptable run-out. I use it very infrequently now (have used it 2 in the last 5-6 years) so really don't care to replace that. But I do need to drill holes around 3/4" and have them start dead center and remain there. I know that they exist, I just can't seem to find them. Anyone have a website/online store they can point me to? Struck out with Graingers. I have a Oneway 2436, and the tailstock is #3 more taper.

Donna here is a stubby length drill (Used) 31/32", it is stiffer than a full length bit and more precise with the #3 mt shank, best I can do for you )

Hercules 31/32" Morse Taper No.3MT Shank Drill Bit 9-1/4"OAL | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Hercules 31/32" Morse Taper No.3MT Shank Drill Bit 9-1/4"OAL at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Jim Reynolds]

Rudy Lopez was the demonstrator at the Robust Open House a couple of years ago. He used a Morse taper drill bit during his demo and recommended Wholesale Tools as a source. Here is a hyperlink Fractional Taper Drill Bits. Here is a hyperlink to a couple of 3/4" diameter #3 Morse taper shank alternatives. $23.42 or $28.83 plus shipping.

I've had good luck using a gun drill with compressed air for drilling into end grain, but my gun drill is only about 1/2" diameter.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Try this - use a forstner bit the same size as your twist bit, go 1-2” deep, then swap in the telwist bit. Starts on center then the straight sides act as a bushing for the twist bit.

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

Let's talk hole spotting.... Meaning creating an accurate starting position for a follow on drill that won't necessarily start its own drilling without "walking".

Most of the following applies more to metal working, applicable to woodworking too although the consequences of miss-use aren't so severe as in metal working. Still good to develop good habits, you never know when you might need to do some metal working.

There are drills specifically made for hole spotting. Coincidently they're know as "spotting" drills. Typically they're a 90 degree point with very thin web for easy starting on rough or non-flat surfaces. Google for more info.

Then there are 60 degree center drills that have no purpose other than creating a 60 degree hole for a tailstock center support like a live center. These should never be used for hole spotting because of the fragile, small diameter tips. Those tips have a tendency to break off in the material when conditions aren't ideal like non-flat or rough surfaces. Break one of those tips off in a valuable part and you're facing maybe an hour or more to remove and hopefully the removal process doesn't ruin the part.

Center drills are sometimes still taught in trade schools and publications as a correct way to spot holes, that doesn't nmake it right though. It's a hard thing to break people of if they were trained that way.