I’ve been making small “bowls” from scraps using a glue block to maximise the depth I can make. Hot melt glue is easy to use and holds small pieces well enough. However parting off is a bit of an issue. I’ve used 1/16 parting tool- gets coated with glue: Japanese saw- needed the blade heating up on the stove wrapped in kitchen paper! I can part off at the base of the bowl but it rather defeats the objective of maximising depth. Or part the glue block off leaving a disc the store be removed with a knife. None are wholly satisfactory Suggestions welcome! Does alcohol dissolve the glue (though I’m not wasting the gin!)
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Glue block, hot melt glue, parting off
- Thread starter Michael Beswick
- Start date
….A disc than can be removed with a knife….
Instead of the hot melt glue attach the waste block with wood glue and craft paper, then when it comes time to remove the waste use a thin putty knife in the paper joint and no parting tool is required.
Roger Wiegand
Beta Tester
Presuming that you intend to reverse and finish turn the bottom of the bowl, choose a glue that will turn off nicely without making a mess. There's no need to use anything reversible or easily separated in this situation. Titebond will work fine, as will hot hide glue for a quicker grab. When you reverse the bowl to turn off the holding block you only need to cut a millimeter into the wood you want to keep to eliminate traces of the glue.
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Yup! also lacquer thinner , also several types of spray can finishes use solvents that make the glue fall right off.
Edit: to clarify a little further, Denatured Alcohol can be brushed on with any kind of brush, it does take some minutes to work (it needs to soak in a bit) - the heavier the bead of hot melt the longer it will take so just keep brushing some alcohol on all around with gentle (fingertip) pressure on the object you're parting off, if it is lightweight, and sooner or later the piece will start to pull away from the glue. Let it soak long enough and you can just peel away the whole bead of glue from everything and leave next to no residue behind. Surprisingly enough, as easy as it is to remove, hot melt glue can have a really powerful hold.
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
Hot melt holds pretty good. For most things, you probably don't need a full ring or coating - just 4 to 6 places around the edge should do it. That plus denatured alcohol and it'll release. I have a small spray bottle with DNA next to my lathe (hot glue is only one of its uses - mostly its just handy for cleaning). Experiment - start with less glue than you think you need - to tune in on the right amount.
What Don said with the craft paper if your wood faces are flat. If you use hot glue perhaps part it off on the project side of the glue line so your parting tool never touches the glue. If that is not possible put the piece in the freezer overnight or for several hours. Hot glue becomes brittle when cold and the base should just pop off with a blow. The remainder glue should pop off easily as well.
For the holding of smaller dry wood there is no need to glue the whole bottom, so I will have just a ring that I leave just higher, it's where I use CA glue to hold the pieces.
To remove I only need to part through the ring I left, some times I can give the glue block a sharp hit and it comes off (only do this if the bottom is strong enough)
To remove I only need to part through the ring I left, some times I can give the glue block a sharp hit and it comes off (only do this if the bottom is strong enough)
Thanks all for the suggestions. I use hot melt glue as I’m impatient! Cut, glue, turn, finish! Could be the alternatives are better. I shall persevere!
Another thing that helps with glue blocks that I learned from watching YouTube videos (and probably also on here) is to turn the face of your block with sort of a glue ring, with a slight, gentle concavity in the center 2/3 or so. Also, a small relief or chamfer cut around the ring helps to get that thin parting tool in there when the time comes. You can also do some super-fine "shaving" as you work your way in that will get rid of most of the glue. What I am finding with much of turning as I progress more into intermediate skills from a beginner is that the little things like this make all the difference. Unless you have a super-shallow bowl made from really expensive ebony or something, shaving off a millimeter or less from the bottom shouldn't be too much. Just one more approach.
As my 92-year old turning mentor likes to say, mine is not THE way, but it is A way (and he turns on a ONE-way, lol, and One-Way owners love to make those jokes more than anybody in my experience!).
As my 92-year old turning mentor likes to say, mine is not THE way, but it is A way (and he turns on a ONE-way, lol, and One-Way owners love to make those jokes more than anybody in my experience!).