Oneway easycore cutter height

[Matthew Patrick]

I’m having trouble with nasty catches with my oneway coring system, especially when trying to core live edge bowls or more gnarly wood. I’ve wondered if it has to do with cutter height. At the moment the top flat edge of my cutter is at centre height. The pointy tip at the front of the cutter is, therefore, a little below centre. Should I be positonng the pointed tip at the front of the cutter on centre height so that the flat top of the cutter is slightly above? Thanks in advance. I’ve searched and searched but haven’t yet been able to find a clear answer.
Matthew

 

[Brian Gustin]

I have no experience with coring, but all my reading on these forums, it seems best results achieved with the cutting edge just a touch above center, it seems.... I'm sure others will chime in here...

 

[Randy Anderson]

Matthew, there a few threads here about setup and using the system that might help. Not sure where your catch issues are happening in the process. At the start or near the end, with the cutter or the support finger, etc. My experience is that coring live edge bowls with the system has some inherent risks that can create some serious catch potential. When the cutter and support finger enter the open air gap between the high wings of the bowl they can get out of alignment. The support finger can actually move and catch on a wing as it comes around. I haven't cored in a while but what helped for me was to go deeper with just the cutter until the finger had more side to side wood support. Hard to describe but I did see better results if I paid attention to not letting the support finger tip be exposed too far out into the gap until I got a groove for the tip of it deeper into the bowl.

 

[robo hippy]

Well, if you are having problems with catches on natural edge bowls, and not on standard bowls, I would guess that you are feeding the cutter into the wood too fast. I use the McNaughton, but same applies. When starting the cut, very gently ease the cutter into the wood. This is the same as you would do when using a gouge to turn out the inside of a NE bowl. I would say ideal height is at or slightly above center, so maybe having the spear point at center height may work better.

robo hippy

 

[Matthew Patrick]

That’s really helpful, thank you. I’m super careful feeding the cutter into live edge bowls and actually the catches have happened when I’m deeper into the wood but and have moved the support finger at least once. I will try putting the spear point on centre which will place the flat top edge of the cutter slightly above

 

[Matthew Patrick]

Matthew, there a few threads here about setup and using the system that might help. Not sure where your catch issues are happening in the process. At the start or near the end, with the cutter or the support finger, etc. My experience is that coring live edge bowls with the system has some inherent risks that can create some serious catch potential. When the cutter and support finger enter the open air gap between the high wings of the bowl they can get out of alignment. The support finger can actually move and catch on a wing as it comes around. I haven't cored in a while but what helped for me was to go deeper with just the cutter until the finger had more side to side wood support. Hard to describe but I did see better results if I paid attention to not letting the support finger tip be exposed too far out into the gap until I got a groove for the tip of it deeper into the bowl.

Thanks Randy, very helpful.

 

[Dave Bunge]

...so maybe having the spear point at center height may work better.

This approach has worked for me. I set up my Easy Core height with the point of the cutter on center as Robo suggests. I've cored many live edge blanks with air gaps with no catches.

 

[Matthew Patrick]

This approach has worked for me. I set up my Easy Core height with the point of the cutter on center as Robo suggests. I've cored many live edge blanks with air gaps with no catches.

Thank you. That is what I’m going to try. Spear point on centre!

 

[Matthew Patrick]

This is the piece that prompted the post. Now a 15x6 inch bowl made from English Yew. Awaiting buffing after Odie’s oil finish.

 

[John Hicks]

I always use masking tape to hold the shaft on the finger when coring live edge bowls. I found dead center, or just a tiny bit above center seems to cut best.

 

[Roger Wiegand]

It's easy to adjust, move it up a bit and see if it helps. Feeding slowly-- eg with low pressure so the cutter doesn't jerk forward when it hits air-- with a relatively high rotation rate of the piece seems to help.

 

[Matthew Patrick]

It's easy to adjust, move it up a bit and see if it helps. Feeding slowly-- eg with low pressure so the cutter doesn't jerk forward when it hits air-- with a relatively high rotation rate of the piece seems to help.

Thank you. I’m going to try raising the cutter height so that the pointed tip is on centre to see if that helps.