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Sliced Hollow Form
Dave Landers

Sliced Hollow Form

Ash, sliced on an arc, reassembled with Wenge pewa. About 5-1/2″ diameter, 3-3/4″ tall. Walnut oil finish.
Wow! Simple woodturning, craftsmanship and artistry all in one small piece!
I think this is a great example of “seeing the curves” ( @odie ). The curves in this form, the curves in the grain orientation and finally the curves in the cutout all work so well together. Love ❤️ this little piece. Nice job.
 
Sweet little piece, Dave. Very clean looking details ... well done, sir! I really like where you're going with these.
I do have one very extremely tiny nitpick - for your next one ... if you're interested. However, it just may be the position of the photo.
 
Let me have it
OK, I'll try to explain what I think I see from the photo.
The center portions of the pewa (over the gap) look flat and don't continue the curve of the form. Most likely a result from sanding. I don't know your sanding method - on the lathe under power or stationary (although I don't see any rounded over edges on the pewa in the photo). Perhaps a finishing sander (flat platen) might work if you don't spend much time over the gap - just guessing here. Or maybe a piece of rigid foam shaped to the curve of the body and some abrasive attached. As I said .... a very tiny nit to pick! :)
Disregard all the above if it is just the appearance in the photo.....;)
 
The center portions of the pewa (over the gap) look flat and don't continue the curve of the form.
Well you have a sharp eye. I can feel a very slight flat over the gap on some of the pewa - it certainly was not my intention.
I do sand by hand, with a flat sanding block, to get the pewa flush with the surface. As it gets closer to flush, I go up in grits to slow things down. Then usually a pass over the gap to try and continue the curve. After that, the rest of the sanding is power sanding with the lathe spinning, so that should'nt flatten them out (as the gap is wavy so the sander should be supported as the piece spins).
As I recall, one thing that may have happened on this one is that some of the recesses were cut a bit too deep (like maybe a few hundredths of an inch), so there wasn't enough pewa to finish out the curve completely.
I'm still refining my process - every piece is pretty much an experiment and learning experience.

Thanks for the comments, I do appreciate it.
 
Well, Dave, since we're in constructive feedback mode, I'm thinking that John Giem could probably show you how you could hold those irregular pieces in a clamp so you could glue them back together nearly seamlessly, and you wouldn't need the pewa.:p

Seriously, these are wonderful, original, appealing pieces and well done. Kudos to you.
 
Well you have a sharp eye. I can feel a very slight flat over the gap on some of the pewa - it certainly was not my intention.
I do sand by hand, with a flat sanding block, to get the pewa flush with the surface. As it gets closer to flush, I go up in grits to slow things down. Then usually a pass over the gap to try and continue the curve. After that, the rest of the sanding is power sanding with the lathe spinning, so that should'nt flatten them out (as the gap is wavy so the sander should be supported as the piece spins).
As I recall, one thing that may have happened on this one is that some of the recesses were cut a bit too deep (like maybe a few hundredths of an inch), so there wasn't enough pewa to finish out the curve completely.
I'm still refining my process - every piece is pretty much an experiment and learning experience.

Thanks for the comments, I do appreciate it.
I'm glad you took my comments in the spirit they were given. :) Some aren't open to anything that may seem to be the least bit critical. Over the many years I've been turning I have always been grateful for any comments, suggestions, critique, tips, etc., which would help me improve technique and aesthetics.

Given your talent, Dave, I'm sure you will work out a solution for this small problem. Not so much for us, but for your own satisfaction.
 

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Dave Landers
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