Looking at vids of that system, 1) handle is too short, 2) easy to set the articulating tip far off center creating a lot of torque, 3) hard to tell details of hooded cutter, appears easy to set for too large of a cut.
For hand held hollowing I use 25” handles, and only go ~5” deep. Its is very important to set the cutting edge just above CL and keep the handle level - to help me do this I stick a small bubble level on the tool. Ellsworth uses offcenter bent tools, and if you keep the edge above center it will swing away from the cut when too heavy, get it below center and it digs in or catches. I prefer the cutting edge on tool CL so it doesnt torque much.
I mainly use hand held for starting a hollow vessel ( I do drill a hole to start) since chips must be removed often. After creating room I use a captured system, Lyle Jamieson’s. Handheld hollowing requires constant concentration and the constant threat of physical injury, which took all the fun out of it. I may still ruin a piece with a system, but I wont hurt myself.
Most experienced hollowers use either 3/16” hss or 6mm cupped carbide cutters (Hunter #1). Small cutting edges limit the cutting force, needed as the edge gets farther from support. I use 8.9 mm flat round carbide for my shop made hand held. The larger hooded cutters can grab too big of a cut. Suggest you experiment with open forms (or just a platter shape) and different settings of the hood as well as cutter position to gain experience with the tool. Simulate depth by moving the tool rest back. Take a look at tools from Trent Bosch, John Jordan, David Ellsworth, Lyle Jamieson, Advanced Lathe tools, as well as the articulating type. You will get an idea of the design concepts.
I wanted a system to do ~ 4” to ~15” deep up to ~14” dia. My choice was Lyle’s, after considering total cost and capability. I’ve been very pleased with it. I’ve also put a camera system together, cheaply, vs using a laser. Camera mounts in the laser holder.
Your existing bars will probably fit into most systems.