Baldor 1/3 hp 6" high speed grinder (3,450 rpm)

[Mark Lohbeck]

I got this grinder when my Dad passed away. Is it worth trying to fit 6" CBN wheels on it or should I just get Aluminum oxide wheels or just junk it? I already have a Rikon 1/2hp slow speed grinder with CBN wheels.

I heard Baldor are good grinders so I didn't want to just throw it away unless it's no good anymore.

 

[John Whitley]

I don't have experience with that model, but I suspect that you'd have no trouble finding a new home for an old Baldor grinder if you ultimately decide that one isn't for you. I think you'd make quick work of it via either Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace, for example.

 

[Jim Reynolds]

If your Baldor grinder runs, I suggest outfitting with aluminum oxide wheels. There are a fair number of things that I grind that I wouldn't want to use CBN on. Lawn mower blades were top of mind with me. I'll also do the occasional metal fabrication project mild steel mostly, but aluminum also. I recall aluminum being a no-no with CBN (clogs up the wheel).

Good luck. I agree with John above, if you decide to part with it I will find a new home quickly.

 

[robo hippy]

Chances are that with a Baldor grinder, you will wear out before it does, yes, they are that good and heavy duty. I would suggest hanging on to it. If you want or need another grinder for your turning tools, keep it and put CBN wheels on it. If not, it will sell quickly.

robo hippy

 

[John K Jordan]

I'd also go with the AlOx wheels. I use the 1/2 speed grinders for sharpening but get a lot of use for the full speed grinder in my little welding shop.

Yes, if you decide to list it for sale it probably won't stay around long!

JKJ

 

[Bob Vaughan]

First, look up the price on a Baldor 612 grinder. It may be more than the basic model. It could a Baldor 623E.
The price will tell you the quality level of a Baldor.

I love putting a toolroom cut-off wheel on one side. The only one to get is the Norton A60 OBNA2. Cheap cut-off wheels don't work nearly as well. Been there. There's a cheap junk wheel on the bottom grinder . It was an early restoration.

 

[robo hippy]

I do keep a small Delta grinder handy with a wire wheel on one side, and a 60 grit wheel on the other side. I don't use it a lot, but I do NEED it from time to time.

robo hippy

 

[Steve Tiedman]

I got this grinder when my Dad passed away. Is it worth trying to fit 6" CBN wheels on it or should I just get Aluminum oxide wheels or just junk it? I already have a Rikon 1/2hp slow speed grinder with CBN wheels.

I heard Baldor are good grinders so I didn't want to just throw it away unless it's no good anymore.

Hi Mark. If I were within driving distance to you I'd come buy it from you. Baldor is as good as it gets in the USA anymore. Well, it's always been among the best. I hope these replies have convinced you to hold on to it.

I've had a 3600rpm 6" Milwaukee grinder since I began turning in 1995, but it became my secondary, general purpose grinder (everything else but turning tools) when I went to slow speed Baldor around 2002 or 03. In the general forum, I'd recently run a thread about grinding wheel bushings. This paragraph is from one of my posts there-

[I bought the wheels linked below]... because I was shopping for general purpose, multi-material grinding wheels. These aren't high-tech, limited use wheels like the CBN wheels on my other grinder. I'll use them for everything from low and high carbon steels, and non-ferrous metals as the need arises. This is the wheel- aluminum oxide, 6" x 3/4" x 1" hole with spacers. I bought a coarse 36 grit and a medium 60 grit. Amazon, make sure to choose the wheel width your grinder uses:
https://a.co/d/iM7s8V6

And this nugget about installing the new wheels-
...I snugged the nut, spun the wheels, and found a good amount of side-to-side wobble from the new wheel. I jammed the other wheel with a wood shim to hold everything still, loosened the nut of the new wheel and held the wheel stationary, and rotated the outer steel washer 90 degrees, then snugged the nut and checked for wobble. Better but not great. Played with the washer again a few degrees a couple more times until the wobble became acceptable. Now I just need to dress the face of the wheel to make it round, and I'll be good for general utility grinding...

Give new stone wheels the ring test before installing. Like this-

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/SLmuy8nmnsc?si=l5iALrHtLkWxLMev

If the wheel rings with a nice sharp tone, it's all in one piece. If it has a dull thud sound, it is cracked somewhere and is junk. Ring test off the grinder, just like this video shows.

I'd bet the wheels on that 6" Baldor are already just fine for general purpose utility grinding. Keep them dressed and true and that machine will prove itself a real benefit in your shop. Otherwise, send it west to me in MN and I'll give it a good home!

 

[Odie]

I've got a cheapie 3450rpm 6" grinder that originally was my lathe tool grinder. Bought it at Napa here. It still gets occasional use when I need to do heavy grinding. It works really well for that purpose. 36gt on one side and 80gt Norton SG on the other side. I wouldn't sell it.....it's too valuable in it's current capacity.

You shouldn't sell yours......I know you'll find plenty of uses for it......

=o=

 

[Bob Vaughan]

A picture of the Baldor grinder in question will be most helpful.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

A picture of the Baldor grinder in question will be most helpful.

Bob, what sort of differences are there in the Baldor 6" grinders, other than speed?

From your earlier photo you state that you parted company with a 6" slow speed. Were there problems with that machine? Thanks.

 

[Bob Vaughan]

Bob, what sort of differences are there in the Baldor 6" grinders, other than speed?

From your earlier photo you state that you parted company with a 6" slow speed. Were there problems with that machine? Thanks.

I did a little research and think Baldor doesn't make 6" grinders any more.

Past 6" grinders came several different ways. The cheap versions has stamped and bent sheet metal tool rests and tool rest arms. They were awful. The wheel guards were either exhaust type or enclosed type. The enclosed type wheel guards came on the cheap-out version although they were cast iron.

For me, the slow speed grinders are just that: SLOW. Light, quick passes get the job done so slowing down metal removal isn't something I want. Keep the grip close to the tip and its easy to feel when things are heating up. Just back off and let things cool until the metal is easy to touch.

Below is a shot of the 623E slow speed that's annotated because that's the only photo I have to show what I want to show.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Thanks Bob.

 

[Mark Lohbeck]

Here is a photo of the grinder. It looks like the one on the upper right side of Bob Vaughn's grinder photos. It still has the old gray wheels on it. I could get aluminum oxide wheels for it

 

[Bob Vaughan]

Sweet little grinder. Cast iron wheel covers no less and it does have intact tool rests.
It looks like you've got AO wheels already. Just clean and sharpen them and you're good to go.

You'll use the Huntington #0 ten to twenty times more than you'll use the diamond.

The only down side of that little grinder is that it is designed to take 3/4" wide wheels. That means that worn down wheels from larger grinders are unlikely to fit because they are too wide.



go through these threads on the 'how to'.

https://www.aawforum.org/community/...obble-and-dressing-a-wheel.22344/#post-238438

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/grinding-hss.18841/#post-190649

https://www.amazon.com/Huntington-D...com/14-carat-single-point-diamond-dresser-rdx