Bandsaw Blades - Carbide with green?

[Scott Horton]

Anyone use a carbide tipped blade with green wood processing? I've been working with some pretty hard pecan and it was not good on my Timberwolf blade. Highland doesn't carry their blade that used to be popular in old threads here. OOS and they say no sign of return. There's a relatively inexpensive carbide on Amazon, thought about trying it. But maybe they won't work well on green wood? Had one guy tell me after using a Laguna blade ($$$) he has (for green wood and other resawing) he's never use anything else. But I don't think he does that much green stuff.

Opinions? Current recommended blade models and sources?

 

[John Hicks]

I'd stick with lenox bi metal blades. Much tougher and designed for metal. You can get a 4 tpi and it will last quite a while.

 

[RichColvin]

I use carbide teeth blades in my bandsaw. Works greatly.

 

[John Dillon]

I cut mostly greenwood and have been using Carter greenwood blades. 3/8" x 3tpi. Have been happy with them, but don't have a lot to compare with since I've been using them (almost exclusively) since I bought my bandsaw about 3 years ago.

 

[David Propst]

I bought 3 of the green wood 3/8” Bandsaw Blades from Highland last week. (145”)

 

[Scott Horton]

David: They must be out of my size. For a 1964131 (Woodturner's 3/8 inch Bandsaw Blade) they said: "Due to a supply chain shortage, the manufacturer is unable to find that width of blade stock which is why we are unable to take backorders at this time. They are not able to make that size blade at the moment. We do not know about future availability at this time."

 

[Scott Horton]

I use carbide teeth blades in my bandsaw. Works greatly.

For (thick) green wood, right? Which one are you using?

 

[Scott Horton]

I'd stick with lenox bi metal blades. Much tougher and designed for metal. You can get a 4 tpi and it will last quite a while.

John, thanks. Which one are you using (width, tooth style)? 4TPI seems high form thick cuts in my limited experience. I have looked at this one: https://02c4de5.netsolstores.com/flexback.aspx?variation=213788

 

[David Propst]

David: They must be out of my size. For a 1964131 (Woodturner's 3/8 inch Bandsaw Blade) they said: "Due to a supply chain shortage, the manufacturer is unable to find that width of blade stock which is why we are unable to take backorders at this time. They are not able to make that size blade at the moment. We do not know about future availability at this time."

If it's the 3/8 width that's unavailable, it will effect all lengths. Sounds like I was lucky.

 

[robo hippy]

I am fortunate to have a blade maker here in town. When I was first setting up my shop, a friend told me to go to them (Oregon Industrial supply). They asked me what I was cutting and I told them bowl blanks. They set me up with the Lennox Diemaster bimetal blades. I have not found any thing that works better. When I asked about carbide blades, they said that they work great for cutting veneers, but are not really practical for anything else. I tried one out anyway, and it did leave a cleaner cut, but didn't last very long, and the teeth were so tiny that they could not be resharpened. My bimetal blades, I use a 1/2 inch by 3 tpi blade on my small saw and a 1 1/4 by 3/4 spacing for my big saw, and if I don't break them first, they can be resharpened several times. A good saw shop can resharpen and reset the tooth set. You should be able to find a source locally, you live in a big town...

robo hippy

 

[Scott Horton]

I am fortunate to have a blade maker here in town. When I was first setting up my shop, a friend told me to go to them (Oregon Industrial supply). They asked me what I was cutting and I told them bowl blanks. They set me up with the Lennox Diemaster bimetal blades. I have not found any thing that works better. When I asked about carbide blades, they said that they work great for cutting veneers, but are not really practical for anything else. I tried one out anyway, and it did leave a cleaner cut, but didn't last very long, and the teeth were so tiny that they could not be resharpened. My bimetal blades, I use a 1/2 inch by 3 tpi blade on my small saw and a 1 1/4 by 3/4 spacing for my big saw, and if I don't break them first, they can be resharpened several times. A good saw shop can resharpen and reset the tooth set. You should be able to find a source locally, you live in a big town...

robo hippy

Reed: Thank you, I'd hoped you'd chime in. I'd read your similar input on some older threads. Appreciate the shared experience with the carbide you tried. So far I haven't found anyone local who does them. There are a couple of places that will make up the Lenox blades and ship. Just trying to figure out exactly which one woudl be best for me. For Lenox there's the "flexback" and the "diemaster 2", the diemaster smallest size is 1/2, which is probably the best fit for my 17" saw. although my manual says I can use up to 1". The flexback has a raker hook tooth that one of the companies said would be better.

 

[Scott Horton]

If it's the 3/8 width that's unavailable, it will effect all lengths. Sounds like I was lucky.

Yep, if you like them, might want to stock up

 

[Richard Coers]

I've never owned a carbide tipped bandsaw blade, but from I've read the teeth are set very litte to provide a really smooth cut. Not what I would want for wet wood. I use a sawmill style blade on my bandsaw. 3/4" wide and 3/4" pitch. They used to be super cheap, like $15 each, but I haven't bought any in years.

 

[RichColvin]

I use the Lenox TRI-MASTER Carbide Bandsaw Blade with 3 TPI. I get them from http://BandSawBladesDirect.com.

https://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/lenox-tri-master-carbide-band-saw-blades?pID=518&ftFinder=7&inFinder=0.75&fracFinder=0.0417&widthFinder=175&toothFinder=191

I like that I can cut wood and soft metals easily. I often cut aluminum on one.

 

[Karl Loeblein]

I braze my blades for an 18“ Jet bandsaw for around $6 to $7 each using blade reels purchased from eBay. Here are some instructions I put together for the process.

https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/brazing-bandsaw-blades-cut-from-coils.17511/

 

[Scott Horton]

I use the Lenox TRI-MASTER Carbide Bandsaw Blade with 3 TPI. I get them from http://BandSawBladesDirect.com.

https://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/lenox-tri-master-carbide-band-saw-blades?pID=518&ftFinder=7&inFinder=0.75&fracFinder=0.0417&widthFinder=175&toothFinder=191

I like that I can cut wood and soft metals easily. I often cut aluminum on one.

Do you use it with very green fresh cut logs?

 

[robo hippy]

On my big saw, a 16HD Laguna, I keep a 1 1/4 wide blade with teeth at 3/4 inch apart. I use it for cutting slabs. For the small saw, I keep a 1/2 inch 3 tpi blade for cutting circles. Some time I may end up getting a circle cutting saw that cuts higher than 6 inches since I do need it some times.

There should be a place that will make blades for you locally. Not sure how many bandsaw mills there are around you, but they may have sources, or just contact a place that does saw blade sharpening. They should know.

robo hippy

 

[John Hicks]

John, thanks. Which one are you using (width, tooth style)? 4TPI seems high form thick cuts in my limited experience. I have looked at this one: https://02c4de5.netsolstores.com/flexback.aspx?variation=213788

I think I got my last ones here. Lenox does not seem to carry narrower widths.

Woodpecker PRO

Woodpecker PRO

www.starrett.com

 

[Randy Anderson]

I've been very happy with these from Olson on big green wood blanks. I used timberwolf for a while but seemed to have more failures or quickly dulling blades than was acceptable. Been a very very long time since I lost a blade when cutting and if I did I can point to the stupid cut I was trying to make. Also, I've always used 3 TPI blades for green wood. The 111"/3 TPI ones are only $14 as of last I looked so was hesitant first time I tried but for the price figured was at least worth a shot. Been happy with them since. I'm sure there are better blades at a higher price, My logic (likely flawed) is that when they do get dull, I have no way to sharpen them that I trust and at that price I can afford to lose one once in a while and maybe still be ahead.

Amazon.com

 

[RichColvin]

Do you use it with very green fresh cut logs?

I don’t cut a lot of green, freshly cut logs, but when I do so, I use this blade.

 

[Scott Horton]

I've been very happy with these from Olson on big green wood blanks. I used timberwolf for a while but seemed to have more failures or quickly dulling blades than was acceptable. Been a very very long time since I lost a blade when cutting and if I did I can point to the stupid cut I was trying to make. Also, I've always used 3 TPI blades for green wood. The 111"/3 TPI ones are only $14 as of last I looked so was hesitant first time I tried but for the price figured was at least worth a shot. Been happy with them since. I'm sure there are better blades at a higher price, My logic (likely flawed) is that when they do get dull, I have no way to sharpen them that I trust and at that price I can afford to lose one once in a while and maybe still be ahead.

Amazon.com

Thanks Randy. They dont 'have my size listed on Olson's website, but I emailed them to see. Definitely not on Amazon

 

[Dave Hulett]

me too. got a 115" "Woodturners Blade" for my Laguna 14|12 week before last

 

[Bernie Kopfer]

I use the Lenox Diemaster for all my green wood cutting. 1/2” wide 3tpi. The blade also works well for all around cutting, not as smooth as a Trimaster carbide but surprisingly good and long lasting. As Gray Reed said they can be easily resharpened. Now if someone would invent a blade with a nonstick coating Life would be much better!

 

[Chris Hoehle]

I snagged the last of the 125" highland woodturner's blades thanks to this thread. I tried to get two and I got a partial backorder email that said:

We are temporarily sold out of:

1x - 3/8in WOODTURNER'S BS BLADE 125in

We will notify you when the item(s) is/are back in stock and your card won't be charged for it until it ships. We hope to have them back in stock in Mid May.

 

[Neil S]

I use 1-1/4" with 2 and 3 TPI bi-metal blades and sharpen myself on a chainsaw chain sharpener.

​

I don't round my bowl blanks just cut them six sided for small blanks and I knock off a few more corners on larger blanks.

 

[Chris Hoehle]

Just letting anyone else looking for these know- Highland shipped my other blade that was backordered today.

 

[Steven Forrest]

I just received 2 of the Highland blades, 111" for a Rikon saw, lickety split.

I broke 3 blades in one week - that was an expensive week. Cutting big chunks of bay laurel root balls into blanks. I suspect it was stress from blanks not being flat enough. But I was also having difficulty getting the saw to cut straight, and even with new sharp blade and everything adjusted properly (or so I thought), the blade was bowing out to the right. Any suggestions?
I have used the Highland blades and generally been happy with them. I did try the Timber Wolf, and it seemed like it might be better until it broke.

 

[Kirk Amidon]

I've been really happy with the Timberwolf blades, and find that they sharpen nicely with a dremel. Usually can get several sharpenings out of each blade before I do something dumb. I use a blade designed for green wood in 1/2" believe it is 3 or so TPI. When the blade starts tracking wonky, it is time to touch it with the dremel.

 

[robo hippy]

Most blade breaks are the back side of the blade, which usually comes from the thrust bearing behind the blade is not close enough. I did have a print out from Lennox about most common causes of breakages. I do use the thicker blades, but don't know how thick, I can't get past fractions....... If the blade is drifting, a couple of things might cause that. One, and probably most common, is that the blade is not properly mounted on the wheel. the blade should be on the center of the crown of the wheel, and the teeth just off the 'high' spot on the wheel. If you have hit anything other than wood, that can cause the tooth set to go sideways. I had one friend who had Timberwolf blades and after switching to the Lennox blades, he said they cut way straighter. Of course, if the blank is not stable on your bandsaw when you cut, that can cause lots of problems, and one of those is breakage, along with binding and burning. If there is any way possible to use a jig to cut, you will save a lot of money on blades.

robo hippy

 

[Dave Hulett]

me too. got a 115" "Woodturners Blade" for my Laguna 14|12 week before last

update. the one I installed last month broke yesterday. cutting a 4" piece of cherry and was cutting very well when it broke at the weld. It had only been a month so I called Highland and they are sending me a replacement.

 

[Kent Jaffrey]

I had trouble with the greenwood blades from highland breaking “before their time” when using them on my 14” Rikon. I figured it was due to the thicker band .035” I believe, which is usually only recommended for larger wheeled saw due to metal fatigue issues on 14” wheels. I started ordering similar tip and set blade from Spectrum supply and have had less premature breakage issues lately.

 

[JeffSmith]

I’ve been using the Highland Woodturners blades for years - and have never had one break (yet). But then over the years, more and more, I seem to skip the bandsaw altogether and just knock the corners off with the chainsaw before getting on with roughing. I think it gives me a chance to move the centers around before committing to what the piece will look like.

 

[robo hippy]

Make sure your thrust bearing is properly adjusted! On so many videos I see on You Tube, when they start to cut, you can see the blade bend away from the wood by a long way. Most of the time I see this, it is not because they have the blade guides raised so the camera can see. This will put cracks in the back side of the blade. That thrust bearing should be just barely rubbing the back of the blade.

robo hippy

 

[David Martin]

I have a 3/4 x 4tpi carbide resaw blade that I used to resaw the planking for a boat I recently built. I started with 500 board feet of African mahogany and resawed almost all of it, the blade was still working, at least well enough, when I got done. From experience I can tell you that I would have gone through at least a dozen carbon steel blades, maybe more. Can't remember where I got it, likely a place called bandsaw blades direct, as that's where I have been buying my blades for a while now. They will custom make any kind of blade you want, material, tooth count and type etc..
Decades ago as a young guy I was working at a boatyard, we had just bought an old 36" Tannewitz saw and couldn't get it to cut straight so called someone to have a look at it. The saw had a relatively small blade for the size of the saw, dont remember exactly what though. The blade tention was set acording to the scale on the saw. His first comment was " You gotta put some tension on this thing!" He cranked on the tension wheel untill the spring was flattened out and gave it a little more. That's all he did, the saw worked fine and we never had a problem with blades breaking. I have been doing that ever since, whether it's a 3/4" blade on my 20" saw or a 1/4" balde on the 14" saw, I tention it till the spring is completely flat, and then some. On average I break maybe one blade every ten years. Also, my bandsaws get used every day so the only time the blade tension is ever removed is when I am changing blades. I'm also kind of cheap so I tend to use them untill they just wont cut any more, so they live under this type of tension for quite a while

 

[Dave Sabo]

the blade should be on the center of the crown of the wheel, and the teeth just off the 'high' spot on the wheel.

What if my saw's wheel are flat ?

I tention (sic) it till the spring is completely flat, and then some.

I've been lead to believe this is one of the worst things you can do to a bandsaw's frame. Anyone else wnat to weight in ???

 

[Karl Koch]

I am fortunate to have a blade maker here in town. When I was first setting up my shop, a friend told me to go to them (Oregon Industrial supply). They asked me what I was cutting and I told them bowl blanks. They set me up with the Lennox Diemaster bimetal blades. I have not found any thing that works better. When I asked about carbide blades, they said that they work great for cutting veneers, but are not really practical for anything else. I tried one out anyway, and it did leave a cleaner cut, but didn't last very long, and the teeth were so tiny that they could not be resharpened. My bimetal blades, I use a 1/2 inch by 3 tpi blade on my small saw and a 1 1/4 by 3/4 spacing for my big saw, and if I don't break them first, they can be resharpened several times. A good saw shop can resharpen and reset the tooth set. You should be able to find a source locally, you live in a big town...

robo hippy

Reed, thanks for taking the time to make this recommendation. I am waiting on delivery of my first bandsaw and ordered the 1/2" x 3tpi diemaster blade (as well as a couple others) from Oregon Industrial Supply. Much appreciated!

 

[Scott Horton]

Saw Karl's comment, reminded me to give an update from my blade journey. I ended up going with Timberwolf 3TPI, did OK until it broke. I decided to try Highland again, and when I did they were showing their woodturners blade in stock now. So I ordered a couple. They are 3/8 and I've been using 1/2 and 3/4 on my 17" Grizzly. Can't say I like the 3/8, seem to flexible for me. I also reached out to Lenox directly for their advice on a similar blade from them. Notes on Lenox and all the others I considered next post...

 

[Scott Horton]

These are all my notes for others in case it's of any help. Number in parenthesis is landed cost with shipping, and tax (some charged sales tax and some don't). In most cases you save from ordering multiples and combining shipping:

$32 ($43) - Timberwolf
https://www.timberwolfblades.com/proddetail.php?prod=3803AS
-
Grizzly sells Timberwolf AS $34 plus tax, plus 21 shipping
$34 ($55+tax)
-
$31 ($41) - Highland - in an old thread users reported love them or hate them due to QC issues. (OOS)
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturners...
Highland bade arrived with tag on it that says it's made by "Sterling Saw Blades" The woodturners blade was a "3/8 032 3 RH X-TRA DUTY .032 BAND"
-
$24 ($45) - Stockroom Supply - guy does great bandsaw videos (emailed)
https://stockroomsupply.com/.../tuff-tooth-bandsaw-blade... Shipping $21
-
$41($60) - Carter Products/Accuright - everyone with a bandsaw knows who they are
https://carterproducts.com/.../green-wood-blade-133-3tpi Plus $19 shipping
-
Supercut (emailed)
https://supercutbandsaw.com/collect...5-inch-x-0-025-bandsaw-blade-for-wood-bandsaw
HawkPro Resaw ½ 0.025 $30 ($39)
Carbide impreg ½ 0.025 $28 ($36)
Prem Gold Carbide ½ 0.025 $28 ($37)
-
Lenox:
http://www.spectrumsupply.com/flexback.aspx
Flexback 3/3 or ½ x3 $16.85 ($25)
Diemaster 2 $45.15 ($53)
Shipping for 3 ~ $24, $8e
$22.84 ($27) Lenox flex back 1/2x3 – $13 shipping on 1 or 3 (~4 each)
https://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/customer/account/index/
Lenox blade guide:
https://www.sawcalc.com/tooth-options
cutwithlenox.com
Lenox tech support said/recommended:
72928D2B103340	BI-METAL	WELDED BAND	DIEMASTER 2	D2 10 11 1/2X1/2 .035 3 HL	$45.15 + shipping
96356CLB103340	BI-METAL	WELDED BAND	CLASSIC	CL 10 11 1/2X3/4 .035 3 HL	$43.45 + shipping
Tech support said the "Hook" (HL) model had a "raker" set when I pressed them on it. So, Hook/Raker format blade.
-
Ellis Saw $13.78 ($37) ½ 3TPI flex was recommended. Have to call them. https://ellissaw.com/bandsaw-blades/band-saw-blade-stock-list/