CA use in bowl crack

[gary7]

Have read much on the site about CA glue. Now need more specific help on actually using it. Have a boxelder bowl with a long but very thin hairline crack. I can only slightly separate the crack. If CA is good to seal this crack, what is the best method for applying it? As always, Thanks.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Sure, but the way you approach it depends on where you are in the process. If you're lucky, you're not quite finished roughing. In that case, put the thin stuff on and let it wick in. Give it some time, then hit it with the accelerator to make sure it won't fling about when you turn the lathe back on. This is the best practice. When you see it, stop it with CA and if you take off more wood with the gouge, stop and do it again, just in case. Better than blowing out a rim. Do the same as you hollow the inside.

If the outside's sanded and inside not, put some accelerator on the outside of the crack, mask it with tape, and apply to wick from the interior. Stand clear and spin it in, then finish the interior.

If both are sanded, spriz both inside and out with accelerator to limit penetration, then apply and let wick in. Won't use as much, won't penetrate as far, but 220 will even the surface

 

[gary7]

Thanks MichaelMouse. Now, what do you use as your accelerator?

 

[DeanGThomas]

What's really needed is a new product. I can visualize it, and could probably get Tim Allen to do the introduction:

Bowl Crack Spackle! :cool2:

 

[tdrice]

Gary.
Go to www.rockler.com, enter 67705 and/or 67713 in the search box. Or go to the website of any of the suppliers of wood working materials and look for CA glue. They will also list the accelerator.

Happy Turning,
Terence

 

[Bill Boehme]

An alternate method to spraying with accelertor and then masking off or taping the surface that works well for me is to hit the surface with a very light coat of fst drying lacquer. This serves the same purpose as using masking tape while also getting right up to the edge of the crack. Give the lacquer a few minutes to dry and then wick some CA into the crack. If you use the very long thin flexible tips on the CA bottle, you will be able to meter out just enough CA to wick into the crack. After fixing the crack, let it harden (I usually wait a few minutes and then hit it with accelerator just to make certain that it will not sling out of the crack), the lacquer can be easily sanded away with 220 or 320 sandpaper.

Bill

 

[MichaelMouse]

When looking for the accelerator, my recommendation is to get the aerosol. Those spray bottles don't work worth a squat, and the replacements you get at the drugstore are equally worthless or worse, because they always land on the fragile spray end, not the flexible bottle. They also drain when they fall neglected as you and your three hands scramble to play beat the clock.

CA and accelerator are part of today's order. First, a sandpaper inventory.

 

[David Somers]

And lastly,

Keep some acetone within reach when you are using CA in case you accidentally make yourself an integral part of the turning or the lathe by touching uncured glue.

Also, don't touch the tip of the CA bottle to an area that has just had accelerator applied to it. You could end up curing your whole bottle. Avoid touching the bottle tip to moist areas as well. Same reason.

Dave

 

[Jack Savona]

Release me!

An Old Saying I heard was: Never glue yourself to something you can't lift.

That's why I always keep a bottle of release agent right beside my lathe.

Jack Savona