Cedar cuts...

[GothycDesigns]

Here in the Pacific NW, we just went thru a decent storm. A friend from work has some cedar trees on his property and one fell because of high winds, well it was part of the top at a crotch that fell, but still decent size pieces from it. So I asked him for any of the cuts he will be doing. :cool2:

My question is, how long should I wait for it to dry out before really turning it. These range in size of 8-12" dia. x 12-16" long? Also Is cedar a sappy wood? Most of the sap seemed to be at the bark area only where it was cut. The rest of the wood does not seem sappy.

I plan on storing this in my shop. Its not really heated but it will stay dry.

Thanks,
Ray
~Gothyc Designs

 

[roger dunn]

Cedar

Ray,
Cedar, like most woods is best turned green, unless you need to store and turn it later, my vote would be to turn it now. Make sure your tools are really sharp! Make light shearing cuts to avoid tearout. Sap hasn't been a problem on the WRC I've turned but be careful when working with it and especially sanding because of potential allergic reactions to it. On the Olympic Peninsula where I live we just had Hemlocks come down.
Good luck
roger dunn
Shine, WA

 

[WODAD]

Cedar

Ray,

I've turned fresh and very dry cedar, worked for me either way, The green stuff I soaked in DNA once it was turned and that worked out well. My only problem has been finish, have tried tung oil, lacquer spray, polyurethane and danish oil now. So far the danish oil looks like it will work best. Have also made some vases where I epoxied the inside and there were areas where the epoxy lifted? Stayed watertight though.

Tip, if you plan on making a natural edge piece, I start my roughing and when I get my shape almost done I use a utility knife to score the bark keeping it intact without the feathered edge. I'm probably doing something wrong to have to do that but it works for me

 

[GothycDesigns]

Thanks guys !!!! I was kinda figuring I should turn it while green. But since it seems to work either way, that cool to know. So for cedar drying on its own. What is a good timeframe to allow for natural drying. 2-4 months?? or more?
I was just getting an idea so that I hae a understanding how much I can play.

I figured if turning green, Should I turn it to an almost completed state, then set aside and allow some dry time, the doa final finish turn and staining?

I was thinking on using this wood for starting hallow ornaments for practice and next year christmas season. The only thing that sucks, is that my table saw motor died on me. Wants to keep shutting the circuit off.

Again thanks for any and all input. Happy Holidays


Ray
~Gothyc Designs
Vancouver, WA

 

[n7bsn]

Ray, yet another green vote, but I don't like the large growth rings in most (modern) western red cedar.

All I lost was branches, but a local Montessori school lost a big-leaf maple, we are talking.....

 

[Brodie Brickey]

Cedar

A neighbor's cedar tree got taken down due to the Bark Beetle infestation. Killed the entire tree before she had it taken out. I turned some of it green but a lot I sealed and have allowed to semi-dry. I've gotten a lot of splits on the drying trunk. I'd recommend turning it now to rough, at least, over then next month and then have yourself a finish turning party around March/April.

You can also turn a bunch of boxes for cigar humidors. Supposedly "spanish" cedar is the wood to use, but I don't think anyone will turn down a nice box.

 

[Richard Baker]

Cedar Finish

Ray,
Years ago I finished some laminated/segmented pieces of dry sedar (made from fence boards, actually), with multiple coats of sprayed polyurethane varnish. Kind of a hassle to clean the gun after every coat and lightly wet sand with 600 between coats, but the finish was beautiful and still looks great 16 years later. Probably easier ways now, but that's what I was into at the time.

 

[GothycDesigns]

Thanks for the input everyone. I think I'll try turning some now and let dry, then do a final turn later. I was kinda thinking along those line, but wanted to see what other have tried or says what works best. So thanks again.

Happy Holidays


Later,
Ray
~Gothyc Designs
Vancouver, WA

 

[Gretch Flo]

red cedar

I have turned quite a few natural edged red cedar. It dries very quickly, and I use Danish oil. It frankly is a PITA. It is very thirsty (wet or dry), and then all of a sudden a knot area is too shiney and the rest is thirsty. So I have to sand areas, and reapply others many times.. I also have more tear out going around the interior bottom, in spite of sharpening.. Turning it drier is helpful, Not my favorite to finish. but like the final outcome after alot of fuss) Gretch

 

[GeorgeH]

I've turned some Western Red Cedar (toothpick holders) from dry cedar with some success. It's pretty delicate but, with care, it provides satisfying results. But I prefer to finish cedar using a combination of beeswax and carnuba wax. Lite coats with buffing between coats builds a strong durable finish that adds a warmth to the grain of the wood.

 

[GothycDesigns]

Thanks, I'll those in mind when I start turning it.

Thanks,
Ray
~Gothyc Designs
Vancouver, WA

 

[GothycDesigns]

I have taken some pieces of cedar I obtained, and got them cut down. Out of 2 chucks, I was able to cut 8 evenly pieces for some small bowls or other turnings. My father-in-law has a large bandsaw, we had to use a 1¼" x 4TPI blade to cut it. Going thru a 8-10" piece of wet, the 1" x 10TPI wasn't cutting thru well. Basically used a resaw blade.....Ah the small of fresh cut cedar....Hmmmm.

I'm in the process of looking into a new chuck, so I can rough turn these and other pieces before final finishing in a few months.

So just thought to give an update.

Later,

Ray