I simply don't worry about cutting it nicely round. I get reasonably close freehand, but it's going to be trued up once on the lathe anyway, so why worry? And with much of the work I do, especially with 4/4 material, a drilled hole would simply complicate what I need to do. I don't do many bowls anymore.
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Cutting circles on band saw
- Thread starter David Friedman
- Start date
Well, one thing I tend to do differently, when cutting up a log for bowls, I always cut a flat spot on the bark side so there is a flat spot for the blank to sit on and then I can scribe the circle with a compass on the top side. To me, this is still faster than using a jig. Having the circle perfect is not necessary because you never can get a chuck perfectly centered and the outside of the bowl blank still needs to be trued up. This does not work for natural edge bowls, and I turn very few of them.
robo hippy
robo hippy
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I start my blank prep by finding the center of the opening .
For a NE hollowform or NE bowl this will consider the bark contours that will form the rim.
Also takes into account the sapwood that will show at the rim.
For a bowl from a half log the center point will balance the grain and control the sapwood that will show .
When driven by a spur in the opening center. The grain orientation will be maintained unless the tail center is moved a large amount causing a big change in the angle of the grain from it original plane. It is rare that I don’t foresee this.
Can always choose another center if needed - really rare
For a NE hollowform or NE bowl this will consider the bark contours that will form the rim.
Also takes into account the sapwood that will show at the rim.
For a bowl from a half log the center point will balance the grain and control the sapwood that will show .
When driven by a spur in the opening center. The grain orientation will be maintained unless the tail center is moved a large amount causing a big change in the angle of the grain from it original plane. It is rare that I don’t foresee this.
Can always choose another center if needed - really rare
I split the log down the middle cut to bowl width or a little more, draw a circle on the flat side to get max bowl size, draw a circle for the faceplate on the same flat side. I measure from middle point to bowl edge then set the bandsaw pin distance. Drill a hole at the compass middle point and mount it on the bandsaw jig and cut a perfect circle, flip it over and mount the faceplate at the circle drawn for it and mount it on the lathe. It is within an 1/4" or less of running true. I haven't tried a NE bowl yet, may when I get down to the bottom of the black walnut stack...
I have owned my bandsaw for 15 plus years, and cut freehand until I joined this forum, a club, then the AAW at the first of this year. I don't know how many blades I've ruined, still have several hanging on the wall. Got to a point I sawed the corners off with the chainsaw and started turning...
I built a sled using tips from the guys here and bought new blades at the same time. There is nothing complicated about the design, pictures are above. Just some furniture plywood I found on the side of the road for trash pickup, a couple strips of oak I had, couple washers and a bolt. I had a piece of 1/4" slick rod left over from something for the pin.
The reason for this post is more of an update than anything. I have cut about 140 bowl blanks since building this, still using the same 3/8" 2tpi carbon blade, just had to clean the gunk off of it a couple times. The jig is still in great shape.
If you are a little handy, you can build a good sled that cuts almost perfect circles, get the most out of your wood, save yourself a bunch on ruined blades if you are like me, freehand not working that great....Everyone is different and there are so many variations that can be had. I suggest looking them over, one might just fit for you.
Built my circle-cutting jig out of plywood scraps, a piece of aluminum t-track, a t-bolt and knob. The center pin is a 1/4-20 bolt, threaded through the t-track. The t-track slides in a groove routed into the plywood.
I realize I could turn my blanks to round on the lathe, but trimming them on the bandsaw makes for a lot less shavings to clean up!
I realize I could turn my blanks to round on the lathe, but trimming them on the bandsaw makes for a lot less shavings to clean up!
Nice jig GR.
I made one major modification to the slot slider on my circle jig. I used hard maple for the slider. When I narrowed the slider to the right size, I stopped the cut before the end and squared the end of cut off so that the wider end acts as my stop block. Thus I don't need a separate stop block. I also made it a little snugger at the end of the cut so it kind of locks the jig in place so it can't easily shift backward out of the best cutting position.
I woke up this morning and saw this old thread revived.
I've never made or used or needed a jig. I have used the cardboard circle technique held in place with a nail or awl, then bandsawn. But better for me is to flatten both top and bottom, draw a circle with a compass or plastic circle jig, then trace over the pencil line with a sharpie pen to make it easier to seal. Cut freehand.
No need for precision but it's easy to get very close if I imagine turning the block constantly around the marked or visualized center. Good lighting, steady hands.
Since I prefer to turn dry wood, I'll seal and let the rectangular block dry for a while (year or so?) then cut away any cracks that developed, mark and cut the circle, seal again, and let it continue to dry. A blank this size might take a while, dryness checked by recording the weight.
For bowl blanks from thick slabs, air or kiln dried, I like to flatten both sides with the drum sander before rounding - makes the circle easier to see and cut AND reveals the true color and any problems in the wood. Blanks like that, ready to mount and turn, bring good prices at our club wood auctions.
JKJ
I've never made or used or needed a jig. I have used the cardboard circle technique held in place with a nail or awl, then bandsawn. But better for me is to flatten both top and bottom, draw a circle with a compass or plastic circle jig, then trace over the pencil line with a sharpie pen to make it easier to seal. Cut freehand.
No need for precision but it's easy to get very close if I imagine turning the block constantly around the marked or visualized center. Good lighting, steady hands.
Since I prefer to turn dry wood, I'll seal and let the rectangular block dry for a while (year or so?) then cut away any cracks that developed, mark and cut the circle, seal again, and let it continue to dry. A blank this size might take a while, dryness checked by recording the weight.
For bowl blanks from thick slabs, air or kiln dried, I like to flatten both sides with the drum sander before rounding - makes the circle easier to see and cut AND reveals the true color and any problems in the wood. Blanks like that, ready to mount and turn, bring good prices at our club wood auctions.
JKJ
Made a jig years ago, but finding a blade that lasts on my bandsaw long enough to make it worth it is my problem.
The problem with cutting circles on a bandsaw is that it wears the blade more on one side than the other. This eventually makes the blade useless for accurate straight cuts.
I’m not sure why some folks think they need perfectly circular bowl blanks, that’s what the lathe is for isn’t it, making the wood perfectly round?!
Seriously, making ten or twelve straight cuts is quicker and preserves the blade for other jobs.
I’m not sure why some folks think they need perfectly circular bowl blanks, that’s what the lathe is for isn’t it, making the wood perfectly round?!
Seriously, making ten or twelve straight cuts is quicker and preserves the blade for other jobs.
If I make blanks round, it's because I want to.
Some options for those who what round blanks but experience uneven tooth wear:
- Alternate cutting by rotating in the opposite direction.
- Sharpen the blade when needed. I usually sharpen a blade 3-4 times before replacing it. Easy if you know how.
Some blanks I cut close to final shape on the bandsaw, flatten the top an bot with a drum sander, then smooth the sides on a disk sander before mounting on a screw chuck. These, for example:, curved but not round. For this design I use only dry wood.
JKJ