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Drying a burl

Joined
May 30, 2022
Messages
410
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389
Location
Belchertown, MA
I scored a large birch burl, about 24” x 48”. Tree came down Monday and I cut it into several large chunks.

My plan was to process immediately into blanks and first turn bowls. Then coat with sealer and let dry slowly. I thought that smaller pieces would dry with less cracking.

Yesterday I turned a small piece into an egg and put some Tung oil on it so I could see what kind of figure I get. It’s mostly curly. Problem is, it’s cracked pretty badly over night. This has me worried about how to keep the whole Burl from self destructing.

What’s best approach for drying? Big chunks, blanks, or first turn bowls?

IMG_0757.jpeg
 
I have a bunch of burls sitting in the woodshed. Although I have never turned one yet -- I have been wondering this myself.

Robert
 
Kent,

Finding “end grain “ might be difficult with this Burl. On the egg I made, the cracks are running across the egg, but I thought the grain was running lengthwise. If this egg was still in the tree, it would be standing on end.

So just seal everything?
 
I scored a large birch burl,

The piece you showed doesn't display much burly figure to me. Cracks generally form along the side grain or radially on end grain. I'm used to burl figure going all different directions, like these:

Cherry, manzanita root burl, white oak.
1777824340374.jpeg 1777824417348.jpeg 1777824508715.jpeg

These never crack. I suspect the grain twists and turns so much it inhibits straight cracks from starting and growing.

If wanting to turn dry, storing green wood properly is imperative. Drying wet wood in short log form is generally a waste of good time.
I process wet log sections immediately into reasonable size blanks, paying close attention to the pith juvenile wood, branches/defects, and grain direction, seal well, and air dry before use.

If turning wet from a log, advice from the late, great, other John Jordan": Acquire a long log, store off the ground in the shade. When ready to turn cut and throw away 6" off the end of the log, cut a blank, and turn immediately to final thickness. If stopping for a lunch break, spritz with water and cover with plastic.

However, I never turn burl or other wood until it's completely dry. I don't core or rough turn - I seal the entire outside surface of solid figured/burled chunks, then air dry the solid blank on the shelf in my climate-controlled shop on a wire shelf with plenty of natural air circulation I track dryness by weight.. This is not quick - I have some that took over 10 years to dry. But with plenty of wood on hand patience is easy.

If any external cracks develop in any blanks, straight or burled, I cut them away and reseal. This often fixes the blank since the initial moisture gradient and drying rate at the surface can create a lot of stress and checks/cracks. I use thickened Anchorseal never straight from the can. I would rather have smaller blanks with no cracks than larger cracked blanks. I can be happy turning small things.

I don't leave cracks in the piece or fill them with resin or anything else. Micro cracks or chips in dry wood can be filled and made invisible with a CA/sanding technique. Pieces with bigger cracks are dog toys, yard decorations, firewood, or teaching aids.

Photo from 11 years ago of a few pieces of my burled wood, now drying or dried:
1777825746293.jpeg

But while I love figured/burled wood, keep in mind that 100 years from almost now all wood will be black. Form is everything.

Remember the woodturner's insult: when shown a piece with questionable form,turning/sanding/finish defects simply smile and say "My, what beautiful wood!" 🤣

But to be fair, those whose goal is to make money by selling things often have a different attitude about wood figure - what sells quickest for the most money is an important consideration. The public is certainly attracted to figured wood!

JKJ
 
A few years ago I picked up a huge Fir burl. Actually I couldn't pick it up, it took three of us to load it into my pickup. The burl had been stored in the furnace room of a 1900 apartment building, a note attached to it said it was cut 75 years ago from an unusually large street tree that was somewhat of an area land mark during the widening of the front street.

The 6" bowl below was turned was turned from it. From storage it was perfectly dry without any cracks.

As I do sometimes I'll put a turned piece on the fireplace mantle to see what my wife has to say about them. This one she had a lot to say, it stunk so badly I kept it in the basement a few years before the odor went away.

There are several small resin pockets that broke away at about the 10 and 2 o'clock areas on the rim. Over than those there are no cracks.

burl bowl.jpg
 
Kent,

Finding “end grain “ might be difficult with this Burl. On the egg I made, the cracks are running across the egg, but I thought the grain was running lengthwise. If this egg was still in the tree, it would be standing on end.

So just seal everything?

Yes, that would be the logical next step. I very often rough turn an unseasoned burl bowl while still very wet. Seal every surface with a generous amount of anchorseal, or equivalent.

It all depends on the individual piece of wood, so there are never any guarantees......but, rough turning a bowl, applying anchorseal to all surfaces, and having patience to do monthly weights until the weight stabilizes, is my best method to season roughed bowls with no, or minimal cracking. I'd say my success rate is above 95% to date.

Also, in some cases, cracks that are caused by the seasoning process can be very aesthetically appealing....this may be more true with burls.

....There is always the moment when you realize it's best to cut your losses, and going on to the next project.....don't be too stubborn about concluding it's time to opt out of this one! :)

=o=
 
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