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Favorite chuck/jaws for large blank coring

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Jun 20, 2025
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Utah
In reading another thread discussing jaws I wondered what other’s favorite chucks/jaws are for coring really large blanks.

I have the Nova Titan with deep grip jaws - they expand to about 5 1/2” but at that expanded width it is not an ideal hold since the jaws are opened so wide. I have used them many times for 18-22” bowl blanks without problem but recently had an issue. I was coring a 23” very wet blank that was a bit deeper than I’ve ever done before (about 14-15”) and the strain must have been too much as the edges of my tenon kind of crumpled or broke down when I was making the last and largest core, causing the piece to come a little loose and wobble and I had to redo the tenon and take down a lot of the depth of the blank.

For the first two smaller cores I had tailstock support using an extension, but for the largest core it wouldn’t reach the bottom of the second to largest bowl due to the blank depth. I usually core from smallest to largest so that I don’t have to remount but maybe in the future I should just core the largest first then put a tenon on it and remount it to do the smaller blanks. That would let me keep tailstock support the whole time but is a bit inefficient.

While it could have just been the wood (cottonwood which is relatively soft) combined with the heaviness due to it being super wet with a large and deep blank, I wondered if a larger chuck would have helped, maybe with a 6” tenon where the jaws were closed enough for optimal holding.

I was looking at the Vicmarc site and they have dovetail jaws for the VM150 chuck that measure at 4.9”, 5.9”, 6.9”, and 7.9” when optimally closed. I only have Nova chucks now and wanted to avoid the expense of another chuck and different brand but maybe for coring it’s worth getting a Vicmarc as I don’t see anything larger for the Nova Titan than what I have.

I’m curious what others use for coring really large blanks or other advice on how to avoid similar failures.

Thanks, Tom
 
I routinely core largest to smallest. When I make the starting blank I use a faceplate. I leave that in place when I turn the blank around to core, its good for keeping the tailstock extension in place. After the core is out it is quick to mount it up and cut the new tenon for making the next bowl.
It would be nice to have a tenon cutter that will mount where the coring cutters go though.
 
I usually core from smallest to largest so that I don’t have to remount but maybe in the future I should just core the largest first then put a tenon on it and remount it to do the smaller blanks.
I watched Chris Ramsey turn a cowboy hat. He shaped the outside of the blank then used a straight tool to take off an outside ring he saved to dry and later make a round frame. (Removing this gave a head start on turning the hat rim.) Looks like the blank was first mounted on a faceplate, held at first at the tailstock before reversing to finish the turning.
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Of course I'm not suggesting you work this way when coring but maybe his sequence could be food for thought.
Almost everyone I've watched turn large pieces for anything held the work with a faceplate. Can be stronger than chuck jaws even if the wood is not perfect.

JKJ
 
Largest cores I can do are ~ 14” from a ~15-1/2”bowl, smaller than your application, but I use Oneway Stronghold #5 aluminum profiled jaws that hold well fully expanded at ~6-1/4”.

Did you have the tenon as long as possible w/o bottoming - helps with soft wood and might do the job.

A faceplate could always be used.

Looking at nova’s site I found 2 jaw sets that look to be bigger:


 
I use 2 Vicmarc 140 chucks. I keep a 5" set on one and a 7" on the other. And if I am turning a very large 18 to 24" I will use the 9"
 
I usually core ( with a Mcnaughton) , using #4 stronghold jaws. My first cores were done on a harbor freight lathe with 2" benjamin best jaws. I only lost one blank out of the chuck mainly due to punky wood. Probably not recommended but,......
 
I routinely core largest to smallest. When I make the starting blank I use a faceplate. I leave that in place when I turn the blank around to core, its good for keeping the tailstock extension in place. After the core is out it is quick to mount it up and cut the new tenon for making the next bowl.
It would be nice to have a tenon cutter that will mount where the coring cutters go though.
Never thought of doing that but it’s a great idea. Definitely would’ve helped in this case but I think I’ll look at getting some larger jaws too. Thanks!!!

Tom
 
I use the Nova Titan 6.5" jaws on either of my Nova Titan or Nova Titan III chucks. The Titan 6.5" and the Titan 5.75" jaw sets are two of the best jaw sets ever made by Nova.
 
I use the Nova Titan 6.5" jaws on either of my Nova Titan or Nova Titan III chucks. The Titan 6.5" and the Titan 5.75" jaw sets are two of the best jaw sets ever made by Nova.
Amazon had a package with both the Nova 5.75” and 6.6” jaws that I just ordered. I was a bit confused because on the Nova chart shown below the largest listed (titan powergrip) goes up to only 5.42” for tenons. I didn’t realize they had larger jaws not on the chart.
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Thanks for the replies and guidance. I’m excited to try these new jaws on the many blanks I just processed measuring 20-23”.
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Tom
 
I use a recess for all of my coring, with the McNaughton system, most of the time, the medium curve blade from the medium set of blades. I use a recess, always. I almost never turn bowls over about 14 inch diameter because they don't sell well. The recess I use is about 2 5/8 inch diameter, and usually about 1/8 inch deep.

I will be demonstrating for our club on Thursday. I do have, and will demo all 3 coring systems, Woodcut, Oneway, and McNaughton. I still prefer the McNaughton. One of the early demos when our club first formed, I asked if anyone had the McNaughton and actually knew how to use it, and that was our next demo. I took it and ran with that.

robo hippy
 
Largest cores I can do are ~ 14” from a ~15-1/2”bowl, smaller than your application, but I use Oneway Stronghold #5 aluminum profiled jaws that hold well fully expanded at ~6-1/4”.

Did you have the tenon as long as possible w/o bottoming - helps with soft wood and might do the job.

A faceplate could always be used.

Looking at nova’s site I found 2 jaw sets that look to be bigger:


Doug are the #5 and #6 jaws for the Stronghold dovetailed? I currently use the #4 jaws but need larger jaws for some applications. I see places online that say the #5 and #6 are dovetailed and other that say they are just smooth.
I plan to buy another Stronghold or Vicmarc chuck.
Thanks!
 
To address your original query, in case others don't have larger Nova jaws on order, I was advised to use the largest jaws possible when I first learned coring. The mentor used 5-6" jaws on his non-Nova chucks. The Powerjaws that came with my Nova Titan chuck (it may be a Titan II) are about 100mm for a recess and 75mm on a tenon, which I believe is too small, plus their length gets the blank farther out from the headstock. Instead, I use the bowl jaws which are the same diameter as the Titan chuck, and I believe use a 5" (125mm) recess or a 4" tenon. They're not as big as my mentor's, but they have proven reliable with either the McNaughten or OneWay coring systems.
 
The original Nova Titan came with the 5" power grip jaws (a deep jaw). The Nova Titan II came with the 4" power grip jaws these were the same jaws you could use on the Supernova II (this was the only piece of equipment I gave a not so sterling review of when I was writing articles). Not because it was a bad chuck but it was a step down from the Titan as it took the 2 hole jaws (so you could use the entire 2 hole jaw product line but all the other chucks already did that). Soon there after Nova came out with the Nova Titan III which once again comes with the 5" power grip jaws. Then finally after all those years they came out with the 6.5" and 5.75" dovetail jaws. Thank you!
I have always started my coring by starting with a screw and make the tenon and turned side. I would then take the biggest core. I then put it back on the screw and made another tenon and repeated the process doing that until finished. I think from now on I will core small to biggest as I probably wasted a ton of time and energy which I now find dwindling as I age.
 
I have always started my coring by starting with a screw and make the tenon and turned side. I would then take the biggest core. I then put it back on the screw and made another tenon and repeated the process doing that until finished. I think from now on I will core small to biggest as I probably wasted a ton of time and energy which I now find dwindling as I age.
I usually start the way you do on a screw, making the first tenon, then core the biggest core first and leave the original blank on the lathe and use as a jam chuck, just reversing the core and cutting a tenon around the live center.
Edited to add: using the McNaughton system.
 
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