Finishing Rims of Natural Edge Bowls

[Don O'Neill]

I have been turning burls recently, and would like to know about options to finish the natural edges. In my case I have been turning Maple, from which the bark has fallen off. I expect options would include brushing, burning, dying, etc. How should I approach "blackening" or ebonizing the rims, particularly using some form of ink and avoid it seeping into the wood and running over the edges? For example, could I brush on wood sealer around the edges first? If I spray lacquer on the sides before applying ink, would I need to cover the rim to protect from overspray? I would appreciate any recommendations.

Don O'Neill, Red Deer, Central Alberta, Canada

 

[Doug Freeman]

When I loose the bark, I’ll brush the rim with a brass brush to remove all the “stringers”, but dont do anything else - leave a natural look. The barkless rim still has an interesting look. Here is one with and one without bark (walnut).

 

[hockenbery]

The treatments are pretty much endless.
I just color the rims with sharpies and prisms pens. They don’t bleed on solid wood.
Punky wood might be an issue.

These are few
Sanded with a small drum


Lightly sanded colored with multiple prisma pens to give a bark illusion


Black sharpie.

Nothing

 

[Dave Landers]

Like Doug, if the bark comes off, I usually use a wire brush to get down to the sapwood, below the cambium layer (that stuff between the bark and the wood). I start with a brass brush, move to steel if that isn't doing the job, and a dremel with a small wire brush for more stubborn stuff.

Normally I leave it at that.

If I want to accent the rim, I usually burn it with a small kitchen (brûlée) torch. Then a little brushing with a toothbrush or soft (brass) wire brush to get rid of the soot.

If you're concerned about controlling the flame/burn (or you only have a bigger plumbers torch) then burn it before you take your final cuts, so if there's any "over-burn" you can turn it away.

 

[Randy Anderson]

Like Dave I will sometimes use a small handheld torch with a point flame to go around the rim. I go around several times doing a little each pass to get to the tone I want. Then brush off the soot. I don't burn until I'm ready to sand and do all of the burning before sanding so if any gets burned over the edge of the rim it will sand away. I use walnut oil finish and will also rub oil on the edge to help seal in the burnt wood. I've never tried colored pens but seeing the pics I might give it a try.

 

[Russell Nugent]

I have been turning burls recently, and would like to know about options to finish the natural edges. In my case I have been turning Maple, from which the bark has fallen off. I expect options would include brushing, burning, dying, etc. How should I approach "blackening" or ebonizing the rims, particularly using some form of ink and avoid it seeping into the wood and running over the edges? For example, could I brush on wood sealer around the edges first? If I spray lacquer on the sides before applying ink, would I need to cover the rim to protect from overspray? I would appreciate any recommendations.

Don O'Neill, Red Deer, Central Alberta, Canada

Well I can't believe my eyes. Don O'Neil finishing bowls. Looking very nice too. Good to see.