Finishing salad bowls

[James McCall]

I apologize for giving you my bias, but it's pretty strongly held. Since mineral oil doesn't cure, it sits on the surface and gives the wood a slippery, oily feel, in my hands. As noted, it also just makes the wood look nice, for the short time it holds up. Beeswax is soft and doesn't hold up, either. Using the mix is a really fast way to get a good look on the wood and get it in the hands of a customer, but the good look is very temporary. Unless you're a production turner, I recommend taking the time necessary to get a more durable finish.

While mineral oil doesn't cure it doesn't just sit on the surface. It absolutely does get absorbed into the wood beneath the surface.

Unless I misunderstood your meaning.

 

[John K Jordan]

A chemist point out this book to me: "The Dose Makes the Poison: A Plain-Language Guide to Toxicology. I bought a copy.
Much of what concerns us is much ado about nothing. Unless you live in California, of course.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0470381124

JKJ

 

[Todd Bowen]

OK, I made a mistake! Need some help sorting this out. Crotch, walnut, which has Rubio's 2c on (after sanding to 400). This bowl was intended to be an art piece that would function as a salad bowl. Now I'm learning from my mistakes. I was supposed to stop sanding at 150 for Rubio's (however, walnut is famous for showing scratches), so I sanded to 400. I did blow the bowl off with high-pressure air. Then coated with Rubio's. Now I am wondering if this bowl can ever be used as a salad bowl, as I'm learning Rubio's is probably not a great finish for that intended use. Also, it is highly figured, and that figure just does not pop. Thoughts on how to move forward, anyone!? I would like the figure to pop more, even if it is just initially. Can this bowl be utilitarian? My thoughts are to polish with the Bealle system and hard wax. I will recommend to the purchaser that they get Rubio's magic maintenance medicine if it is to be used. Picture attached. 24 hours into curing right now. The foot has not been turned off, as I want to hear some responses. I will leave a foot on it to lift it off the table if it is to be sold strictly as art. If you think it could be used, I will turn the foot away. Thanks for your input, in advance

 

[robo hippy]

I am not sure why you stopped sanding at 150 since that would leave obvious scratches. I would suggest wet sanding with more Rubio's, which I am guessing is Rubio Monocote. Good stuff as far as I am concerned, especially for pieces that are going to get handled a lot. I would go to 400 which is what I do for my wood bowls, then finish with the grey synthetic steel wool pads.

robo hippy

 

[Webb Willmott]

No matter how much the bowl pops, you will most likely be the only one to appreciate the grain. All others notice the lovely green contents with contrasting colors of the add ins.

My maple salad bowl has been in use for about 25 years. Used often olive oil vinegarette. It’s washed with dish soap and immediately dried.

It started life with a rubbing of olive oil and has a reapplication at least 2-3 times a week when a salad is made. There is a lovely dull orangish brown patina that maple gets over time.

Since it’s in frequent use, sometimes daily, the finish is food safe, low cost, and I never worry about losing that pristine shine you see when it comes off the lathe.

Here’s my formula for frequent finish reapplication.

1 cup olive oil
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1 clove garlic
1 tsp salt
Pinch tarragon

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Crotch, walnut, which has Rubio's 2c on (after sanding to 400).

I don't think sanding to 400 is a problem at all. I use other finishing products, but regularly sand to p800.