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Green Wood / Mold Issue

Joined
Dec 10, 2021
Messages
12
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3
Location
Birmingham, Al
A few weeks ago I obtained some slabs of sweetgum and sycamore. The slabs varied in thickness 4", 6" and 8"; with each being about 14"-16" wide. When I cut the slabs to length, after cutting the slabs to length, I applied Anchorseal 2 to the end grain, and also brushed on approximately 4" around all four sides. After a week the sweetgum started showing signs of mold (as can be seen in the photo below); the sycamore shows no mold. I'm storing the wood in my basement which stays around 55-60 degrees. Is it normal to have this much mold growing on the surface? Could it be due to the fact that all wood/moisture is stored in one corner of the basement?



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Possibly stupid question (that I'm sure has been asked and answered many times) but, assuming you wear proper PPE, is this a problem? Would that surface layer just be turned off and then dry out harmlessly?
 
A few weeks ago I obtained some slabs of sweetgum and sycamore. The slabs varied in thickness 4", 6" and 8"; with each being about 14"-16" wide. When I cut the slabs to length, after cutting the slabs to length, I applied Anchorseal 2 to the end grain, and also brushed on approximately 4" around all four sides. After a week the sweetgum started showing signs of mold (as can be seen in the photo below); the sycamore shows no mold. I'm storing the wood in my basement which stays around 55-60 degrees. Is it normal to have this much mold growing on the surface? Could it be due to the fact that all wood/moisture is stored in one corner of the basement?



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Whenever I see that kind of mold on the surface, I always spray it with the bathroom (or kitchen) cleaner, like Clorox, "with bleach". Might take a few spritzes over a couple days to kill it off.

I kind of agree all the wood, with fresh cut ends, has created a little micro-environment in that corner of your basement. Too much moisture. I would think it would dissipate relatively quickly as the ends of each slab dry out a bit.
 
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Possibly stupid question (that I'm sure has been asked and answered many times) but, assuming you wear proper PPE, is this a problem? Would that surface layer just be turned off and then dry out harmlessly?
I typically cut the slabs to rounds on my bandsaw when ready to use, so you would cut the mold off there. If you are going to slice into spindle blanks, it would still be there when turning (or you can also cut it off the end of each spindle). You could use proper PPE and wouldn't be a big problem when turning, but I think it would depend on if the mold spores are still active, or has the wood dryed out, and are the spores still active (or not) before you start turning it? Those pictured above are evidently active spores based on the original post.

In any case, I like to kill it off and not let it get any worse, which is why I made a comment above about spraying it with a weak bleach solution. If you turn with mold spores that are active I think the mold would go airborne in your turning area "for a while". I'm not sure about all that, but it's an assumption.
 
I've been traveling so I apologize for the late response. John K., I took your advice and put a fan in the basement for improved circulation. I also plan on pulling the rack out away from the wall to allow for more air flow. John D., I took your advice and sprayed a bleach solution on the wood. It definitely helps, however, it doesn't get the mold directly behind the Anchorseal. I do plan on cutting the blanks into rounds, which will help the blanks to dry out quicker due to less mass.

Dwayne, I could be wrong, but I don't think it's fungal spalting. The slabs were cut on June 4th (See Photo Below), I cut them into square blanks within a couple days and sealed the ends. When I sealed the ends, there was no sign of mold or spalting.

In looking at the wood, I also noticed something I've never seen before (See Photo Below). There is some type of very small insect that is in the sweatgum. They're not termites. I guess they're trying to escape from the wood and leaving these small tunnels similar to termites, but the holes are only 1/16th of an inch. I have not seen the actual insect, just the tubes which i suspect keep them moist. Has anyone ever seen these before?
 

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In looking at the wood, I also noticed something I've never seen before (See Photo Below). There is some type of very small insect that is in the sweatgum. They're not termites. I guess they're trying to escape from the wood and leaving these small tunnels similar to termites, but the holes are only 1/16th of an inch. I have not seen the actual insect, just the tubes which i suspect keep them moist. Has anyone ever seen these before?
Powder Post Beetles. I'd advise getting those pieces of wood out of the house ASAP before they decide to chew on your antique furniture and any other unfinished wood they can get to.
 
There are several types of PPBs, some go for different wood. Some types will go for dry wood, others not. The larvae bore deep into the wood eating as they go. There is a lot of info on the web about what to look for and how to protect from infestation. A sure sign of active infestation is fine wood powder, frass, dropping from the holes. The females lay eggs in pores and crevices in the wood, the eggs hatch and the larvae start boring and eating. They may stay in a chunk of wood for years before they come out as adults and fly away. There has been much written on this and other forum about what to look for and what to do. You might try a search here and on the wood web.
This recent thread had some comments:

Here's an article on PPBs.

Something on the life cycle:

If cutting logs you can protect from PPBs by applying products like Boracare.

If there is no active beetle infestation, the wood is fine to turn. The trick is knowing when to turn and when to panic.

There are other types of beetles, for example Ambrosia maple typically has beautiful fungal discoloration with two or three beetle holes close in a row across the discoloration. Here are some blanks I cut from some BIG ambrosia log sections: about 30" dia, 16" length.. Hard to see beetle holes in these. (Ambrosia beetles are different beetles than powder post beetles.)

ambrosia_maple_IMG_20171202_134017_767.jpg

Wormy chestnut can be beautiful. I think the holes were also caused by ambrosia beetles. I take all the wormy chestnut I can find.

handmirrors_two.jpg

The fungus could be the start of spalting, but you won't see any spalted wood for a while, maybe months, as the fungus moves through the wood eating what I can. BTW, the black lines you see in spalted wood are not the spalting itself but the protective zone lines the fungus create to protect their claims. If you keep the wood damp the fungus can work it's way through the wood and cause spalting. But there's a fine line between spalting and rot.

JKJ
 
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