Handle for tools with rectangle tang

[Bob East]

I just bought a Robust negative rake scraper with a flat rectangular tang & I'm planning on turning my own handle for it.

What's the recommended way to lock in the handle? Round hole w/set screws, flat hole & setscrews or some metal inset with round holes.

I've not seen any inserts specifically for flat tangs.

Thanks for any advice.!

Bob East

 

[Joel Daniels]

Sam Angelo has a great video on making a handle for a Robust tool with a rectangular tang. Basically glue two pieces together after squaring out a groove to fit the tool.

 

[hockenbery]

What I do is drill a hole the size of the tang where 3/4 will be inside the hole.
Measure across the diagonal

Turn the handle fit a ferell.
Place the tang in the hole then hit the bottom of the handle sharply on a bench or a concrete floor. This will seat the tool in the handle and cut/compress corners that make a perfect fit. often no glue will be needed. If the tool ever feels loose hit the bottom of the handle on the bench again. Adding a few drops of thick CA will keep it in place if it persists in coming loose.

This works well. The engineering purists out there make a three part handle with Three strips of wood.
The center strip they band saw a slot to fit the tang glue the pieces together and turn the handle

 

[john lucas]

Drill a hole the size of the thin part of the tang. Heat the end red hot. Let it cool until its a dull red or even no red. Then drive the handle on to it. It will burn the perfect shape. No glue needed. I clamp the tool in my vice with the tip protected by wood and woid or copper on the jaws to protect the tool. Then heat the end.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Drill a hole the size of the thin part of the tang. Heat the end red hot. Let it cool until its a dull red or even no red. Then drive the handle on to it. It will burn the perfect shape. No glue needed. I clamp the tool in my vice with the tip protected by wood and woid or copper on the jaws to protect the tool. Then heat the end.

And do this outside, with the wind to your back or side. Don't do it inside. The rush of smoke and hot vapor coming off the wood right into your face can be intense. I've done this same thing recently making carving knives with hickory handles.

If you can find a piece of hardware store "weldable" steel in the same size as your tool, I'd use that for torching rather than your turning tool. If you have any slop in the fit afterward, fill the gaps with epoxy.

See the tip in this video from Richard Raffan as he makes a tool handle. He grinds a 3-facet spike end on the tool shaft to bite into the wood handle.

View: https://youtu.be/ZJwDeu0rh-Q?si=2TDaeqv9NDKChNl6

 

[Bill Alston]

I’ve not had any problems with commercial wooden handles. I’ve also removed tools from the handle to make sharpening easier and they were still fine after just tapping them back in the handle. Maybe I’ve been lucky or maybe you’re over thinking things, but good to ask.